APPENDIX C. EXECUTIVE AND DESCRIPTIVE REPORT OF LIEUT. W. L. CARPENTER, NINTH INFANTRY ON THE OPERATIONS OF PARTY NO. 3, COLORADO SECTION, FIELD-SEASON OF 1875. UNITED STATES ENGINEER OFFICE, GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST of One Hundredth MeridIAN, SIR: I have the honor to submit the following executive report of party No. 3, Colorado division, under my charge during the field-season of 1875. The party rendezvoused at Pueblo, Colo., early in June, and on the 8th day of that month the organization was completed-the party being well equipped and ready to take the field for six months' service. The personnel was as follows: First Lieut. W. L. Carpenter, Ninth Infantry, executive officer and naturalist; F. O. Maxson, topographer; A. R. Conkling, geological assistant; Alliston Ladd, recorder; Private J. F. Kirkpatrick, Company C, Battalion Engineers, recorder; 2 packers, 1 laborer, and 1 cook. On the 9th of June the party left Pueblo, with orders from First Lieut. W. L. Marshall, Corps of Engineers, commanding the Colorado section, to survey the southern portion of Colorado and northern part of New Mexico, this being an area of about 7,000 square miles, comprised between longitude 104° 7′ 30′′ and 106° 30′ west, and latitude 35° 30′ and 37° 20′ north. The month of June was spent in working down the eastern side of the mountainrange which separates the water-shed of the Mississippi from the drainage of the Rio Grande; in occupying East Spanish Peak and other less prominent points as triangulation-stations, and in meandering and measuring important roads. On the 7th of July the party crossed the Sangre de Cristo Mountains through Taos Pass and descended into the valley of the Rio Grande. Drawing supplies at Taos, the party turned northward, following the range to Fort Garland, examining en route all passes which appeared likely to afford means of communication with the eastern slope. The rainy season commenced July 4, and continued, with slight intermission, until October 1, covering the country with a luxuriant growth of grass and filling all the streams with an abundant supply of water, but proving a source of great annoyance to the party by the persistence with which clouds and fogs covered the mountains for many successive days, sadly interfering with topographical work. Taos Peak was occupied eight days without obtaining complete results; and on many other mountainstations did the topographer spend weary hours watching a rift in the clouds, vainly hoping that it would even for a few moments disclose some distant and important station. I doubt if ever similar work was carried on under more disadvantageous circumstances than by this party during the month of July, 1875, said to have been the rainiest summer ever known in New Mexico. After drawing supplies at Fort Garland, the party proceeded southward, keeping close to the foot of the mountains. By great exertion this area was completed, notwithstanding the continuance of unpropitious weather, and reached Elizabethtown August 24. Here I left the party in charge of Mr. Maxson, and, taking Conkling and one packer, proceeded to the Gallinas mauvaises terres, for the purpose of exploring that region and collecting vertebrate fossils from the locality visited by Prof. E. D. Cope in the season of 1874. I did not rejoin the party until October 11, at Fort Union, it meanwhile working in the range from Taos Pass to the southern extremity, below Santa Fé, and completing unfinished work in atlas-sheet 69d. At Fort Union supplies were drawn for the last time at a military post, and advantage taken of the kind proffer of assistance from Capt. A. S. Kimball, assistant quartermaster, to make some much-needed repairs on pack-train before starting out for the fall work. While at this post Mr. Conkling, in obedience to orders, made a careful examination into the geology of the vicinity, with a view to determine the feasibility of sinking an artesian well at the garrison. He reported adversely upon the project, finding that a true hydrographic basin at a practicable depth was wanting, owing to the existence of a synclinal depression in a basaltic formation of great thickness which underlies this locality. His detailed report on this subject was forwarded to you from the field. The subject of artesian wells is one of great importance to New Mexico. The Territory possesses a large area of excellent grazing-land now almost worthless for want of water, but which only awaits the means of furnishing a small artificial supply to render it of great value. There are many localities where the basaltic formation does not occur, which appear to offer advantageous sites, with a reasonable prospect of obtaining a flowing well. A considerable sum of public money intelligently expended in this work would be a wise disbursement. If successful, it would stimulate private enterprise to sink other wells, which would operate to reclaim hundreds of square miles of an arid region now uninhabitable; while, if the experiment resulted in failure, none could so well afford to sustain the loss as a Government whose policy has always wisely been to aid States and Territories in matters of public welfare. The rest of October was spent on the plain country east of the Canadian River, making rapid progress with the topographical work, as the weather was now perfectly clear. Trinidad was reached November 2, and after connecting the system of triangles with the established base-line at that place, started for Wet Mountain Valley. On the 5th of November it commenced to snow, and continued stormy and very cold for ten days, making it impossible to complete the survey of the valley. Camped two days in Rosita, Colo., where the party was made very comfortable by the kindness of Mr. Livingstone, who offered the use of a vacant log house, which was very acceptable, as the thermometer stood at 6 above zero and the ground was covered with snow. During the stay in the valley the weather was so stormy that the astronomical observations necessary for the establishment of a meridian-line could not be taken, and accurate topographical work was rendered impossible. The trail leading from the Huerfano River up Williams Creek into Wet Mountain Valley was meandered; also the wagon-road from Rosita to the Huerfano by way of the Muddy Creek Pass, and such other topographical results obtained as the intensely cold and stormy weather would permit. The principal mines at Rosita were inspected by Mr. Conkling, and collections of their valuable ores secured. This little mining-town enjoys a wellmerited prosperity seldom to be observed in the West. Its mines are wonderfully rich, and, being situated only 30 miles from the Cañon City Railroad, possess facilities for shipping their products, which give it superior advantages over other richer and more extensive mining-districts, but which are farther removed from railroad transportation. Leaving Wet Mountain Valley November 17, the party started for West Las Animas, Colo., meandering the Apishpa River on the way down, from the stage-road to its mouth. Arrived at West Las Animas, the terminus of the Atchison, Topeka and Sante Fé Railroad, November 25, and disbanded next day. The result of the season's operations is very satisfactory. The topographical work planned for the party was faithfully carried out; connection made with the bases previously measured at Trinidad, Cimarron, Fort Union, and Santa Fé; also sufficient accurate detailed geodetic data obtained to construct a reliable map of that region. During the season a total of 2,742 miles were marched; and of this number 1,199 miles accurately meandered. The number of triangulation-stations occupied was 24, the topographical stations made being 133. Especial care was taken to determine the best routes of communication between the plains and the valley of the Rio Grande. With this end in view, the Sangre de Cristo range, which is the most formidable obstacle, was examined at all accessible places from Morino Valley northward to the Sangre de Cristo Pass. These mountains were crossed four times and a series of barometric profiles secured, which establish the fact that the Taos Pass, starting from the southwest end of Morino Valley, is the best route for either wagons or a railroad. Traveling from this place north, the next pass which can be made available for a road is called Red River Pass, and is situated at the northern end of Morino Valley. It follows up a small tributary of the Cimarron River, and crossing the range at an elevation of 9,460 feet above the sea, with an easy grade descends a little more abruptly by the Red or Colorado River, a small branch of the Rio Grande. The grade throughout the entire distance, although quite steep in some places, is perfectly practicable for wagons or railroads. But on account of the narrow walls of the Red River Cañon and the tortuous course of the stream, a considerable outlay would be required to build a wagon-road, because of the great number of bridges which would be necessary, while the cost of a railroad would be too great, for the same reason. The next pass to the northward, known as the Costilla Pass, is impracticable, even for horsemen; while the fourth and last, called Trinchera Pass, has an exceedingly rough mountain-trail over it, which answers very well for pack-animals, but which cannot be utilized for wagons. The proximity of the Sangre de Cristo Pass, through which there is a good wagon-road, answers all purposes of travel at present, and it will probably be many years before any other means of communication for this section will be considered necessary. Taos Pass has an elevation of about 8,625 feet, and offers many advantages over any other. There is an abundance of wood, water, and grass, until the valley of the Rio Grande is reached, when the country changes abruptly from a pastoral to an agricultural region. A proposed railroad (the Arkansas Valley and Cimarron) has been already projected along the Cimarron River into Morino Valley, and it should have the Rio Grande Valley for its objective point, as there is no intervening obstacle if constructed via Taos Pass. Large collections in natural history were made, the movements of the party being so conducted that a collection embracing a deep vertical range could be secured during its progress from the plains, at an altitude of 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, to the summit of the loftiest peaks. And as this movement was continued in a sort of wind ing course down the mountains from Fort Garland to Santa Fé, it afforded opportunities for securing a valuable collection, which will undoubtedly prove extremely interesting in its bearing upon the geographical distribution of the fauna of the western mountains. In making my collections above timber-line, I received much assistance from Mr. F. O. Maxson, whose duties as topographer often required his presence at extreme altitudes. The collection of vertebrate remains obtained from the mauvaises terres of New Mexico is of importance, as this locality is a new field, visited but once before, by Prof. E. D. Cope. It was a matter of regret that more time could not be spent in its exploration; but being dependent upon rain for water, movements were necessarily restricted to the vicinity of a few pools which were found; and as there were but three persons in the party, the exposed condition was a subject of anxiety during the sojourn here, on account of the number of semi-hostile Indians about. It required the constant presence of one person in camp to guard the property, while the other two went out each morning and, with rifle in hand, hastily collected the petrified bones and teeth of the huge animals which once inhabited this remarkable region. I fully appreciate the efficient aid rendered by my two companions under many trying circumstances which occurred during an absence of six weeks from the main party, without which success would have been impossible. The geological and mineralogical collections were in charge of Mr. A. R. Conkling, who, under many difficulties, visited every mining-region passed through, and not only made valuable collections in his specialty, but also found time to render me some assistance in the department of natural history. The past year afforded a good opportunity to see Southern Colorado and Northern New Mexico under the different conditions of a wet and dry season. The spring was said to have been the dryest ever known, and consequently the country appeared under every disadvantage. From Pueblo to the Cimarron River it was parched with the drought; there was barely enough water in some streams for live-stock, and the crops suffered for want of irrigation, although every drop was utilized economically. New Mexico, like Colorado, is a region requiring irrigation to produce crops. Although in a favorable season indifferent crops might be raised without resorting to that process, yet no dependence should be placed entirely upon natural moisture in this peculiar climate, where the rain does not fail in the season when most required by the farmer. Agriculture on a large scale must always be precarious when the means of irrigation do not exist. Most of the natives, however, are content to eke out a bare existence by cultivating a small patch of ground with wooden ploughs, and thrashing out their grain by driving herds of sheep over it. In no part of New Mexico can anything approaching to eastern thrift and industry be found. The picture which the writer saw, of a thrifty field of corn in which a herd of cattle was peacefully browsing upon the tender grain while the owners were in-doors taking their noon-day siesta, is but a type of native shiftlessness too prevalent for the common weal. The corn raised throughout New Mexico is a short, stunted kind, well adapted to a quick growth and moderate yield. It is probably the same grain which has been cultivated on the upper Missouri River by the Indians since the days of Lewis and Clarke, where it is known as "Ree" corn, so called from the fact that the Ree Indians were the first people in that region to raise it extensively. If brought originally from Mexico or the Isthmus, its introduction to the northern tribes becomes apparent through the agency of traders and trappers who years ago were in the custom of traveling from the Missouri region to Sante Fe to dispose of their furs. But as it is a kind especially adapted to a cold climate, on account of its rapid growth, it might also have been first imported from the East, and be a variety of the original James River maize, considerably modified by climatic conditions. The soil of Northern New Mexico, along the eastern slope from the boundary-line south to the end of the Rocky Mountain chain, is very fertile and easy to cultivate The entire valley of the Rio Grande is also a fertile tract, capable of supporting ten times its present population. This comprises about all the arable land of that region. Westward of the Rio Grande the bad-lands occur, rendering an area larger than the State of Connecticut worthless for any purpose except an indifferent grazing section during the winter-months. A short distance east of the mountains the plains appear covered with a light alkaline soil, and, being furnished with a scanty supply of wood and water, present a very uninviting appearance to the agriculturalist. The farming-land, then, of Northern New Mexico is a narrow belt on the eastern and western sides of the main range, considerably contracted toward the mountains during the prevalence of an unusually dry season; and although this region is sufficiently. large to render the Territory self-supporting for all time, yet its agricultural importance will not bear comparison with other more favored Territories. Its chief wealth must always be found in the valuable grazing advantages which it affords. The writer has visited nearly all the Western States and Territories, and having had good opportunities for judging of their relative merits for agricultural and grazing purposes, has |