their tribal quarrels they turn to these men of pure white blood to help them out with sound advice. In the most recent of the island's troubles the name of Tehera is mentioned frequently as that of a man in whom the people have confidence and whose advice they are willing to follow.

On the other side of the equation

you have the pure blacks, of whom there are quite

a few in the island, These seem to be better men of their class than the people of mixed blood to whom I have applied the rather unpleasant term of mongrel. The great Hereaux, who ruled Santo Domingo vigously for many years, was of this type. He was a bloody tyrant, but he was a strong and fearless man. His rule was that of

tution and claims to civilization, are living in feudal times still.

That brings us to a consideration of the qualities of the people themselves. A student of ethnology, or at least of, miscegenation, might spend a lifetime of study here and still find raw material ready to hand. The strange creature of vaudeville who has a black face, red hair, blue eyes and freckles is no

the barbarian, but it at least had the elements of strength and courage. None of his successors seems to have possessed those elementary requirements. It took a strong hand to rule England in the days of the feudal system and England bred such men in plenty. Santo Domingo does not breed them, and it is doubtful if she ever will; yet her people, in spite of their consti

man, Syrian, and I don't know what else.

Rich or poor, black or white, educated or savage, I have found the Dominican uniformly polite, gentle, and in personal dealings, honest. In the city he is a good deal of a Yankee. He knows how to skyrocket prices on the approach of the Americans, and he will beat you in a horse trade with all the holy joy

already be the preparations for the feast on "the goat without horns." I shuddered and rode on much depressed.

The next morning I mentioned the affair in confidence to a Dominican whom I knew I could trust. He laughed heartily. "What you saw," he said, "was a 'junta,' where all the neighbors come and help a man put the roof on his house what you call in America a 'raiseup-the-house.' They strike the palm leaves to drive out insects. Then when it is all done they go to the other house and have sanchoco

would have found to-day all the earlier stages of the process, from the savage who dwells in a primitive hut, wears little clothing, and subsists on the unprepared fruit of the earth; the tribal state, the feudal system and the age of chivalry, up to and a little way into the complexities of nineteenth century civilization. You may see it all in the city of Santo Domingo to-day. Here is the magnificent cathedral built by the successors of Columbus, where in a great iron chest, still repose his bones, according to Dominican belief; here in the plaza.

is the fine statue to Columbus, surrounded by well-designed government buildings. You may hear the jingle of the telephone bell, and the cable flashes the news of the world to you daily, yet fifteen minutes' walk will take you to negro huts. that rim the ancient city round, modelled after those of Central Africa, in which dwell people who are at least semi-savage. These are the lowest type of the Santo Domingo citizen. The others grade rapidly upward to Dominicans who have been educated in the colleges of the United States, and you may find them of all grades between.

Even the Spaniards, in many cases, seem to have left unfinished the fine edifices they planned. You see magnificent churches here by the score, yet hardly half of them are fit to be used for worship. Some were never roofed, and great tropical trees and plants stand in their aisles instead of worshippers; others have fallen into decay, and still others have been battered by the guns of revolutionists. On a hilltop within the city limits is a beautiful little chapel. Its walls and groined arches still stand, but it is roofless and its whole interior is a banana grove beneath whose broad leaves

most instances little above that of the savage. The island is in a continual turmoil of political upheaval, yet the bulk of the people know little about this and care less. They know their local chief, or "jefe," and do as he bids them. His is the local over-lordship just as it was in England in feudal times. He calls them out to fight for this president or that pretender, and they go or not as they feel inclined. The merits of the case they know noth

tions by his personality. This is what happened in Hereaux's time, and what might have happened. since had Hereaux left behind him any man strong enough to do it. But he did not. The number of his political enemies whom Hereaux is said to have killed in cold blood is set at two thousand. Every time a man gave evidence of such strength it was his death warrant.

Whether the Dominicans themselves have in them the vigor