wish to quote from some of the leading Entomologists of the country whose wide experience in dealing with insects that affect garden vegetables enables them to speak with authority on this subject.

Dr. F. H. Chittenden, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. "The best remedy is one of the arsenicals; and Paris green and arsenate of lead are preferred to others in common use. If the former is used it may be applied either dry or wet, preferably, however, as a spray, at the rate of one pound of poison to 150 gallons of water. It should be applied when the plants are first set out, so as to insure the poison reaching the young larvae before they have burrowed far into the heads. Other applications should follow as required. These can be made with absolute safety until the heads are about half formed, and, for that matter, even later, as the poison disappears from the plants almost completely within three or four weeks after the application. Chemical analysis has shown that cabbage which has been dusted or sprayed with an arsenical in the way prescribed, and then prepared for cooking a week later, has not even a trace of arsenic remaining. The use of arsenicals against cabbage worms is almost universal in the United States, although growers are sometimes loath to ackuowledge the fact for fear of the loss of customers who are not fully acquainted with the harmlessness of the remedy. There are no authentic recorded instances known to the writer of poisoning from the consumption of cabbage treated with an arsenical." (Cir. No. 60, Bureau of Entomology.)

Prof. J. B. Smith, State Entomologist, New Jersey. "The cabbage heads from within,-that is to say, the leaves unfold from the center of the head and do not fold together to form it; therefore, whatever poison is put upon the plant can fall only upon the outer leaves, and not a particle gets into the head itself. The amount used to a single cabbage-plant is so minute that in order really to poison a man it would be necesary for tim to eat about a dozen heads, outer leaves and all, and if death then resulted I would be inclined to attribute it rather to the cabbage itself than to the Paris green or other arsenite employed. The larvae succumb to the poison very readily, and by making the application early in the season the later broods may be materially reduced in number. In ordinary farm practice the heads are cut out and shipped, and in preparing the cabbage for food, the outer leaves of these heads are usually taken off by the housewife because more or less bruised or injured, before they are cooked. Chemical analysis has shown that on a head so prepared, within a week after a heavy application of Paris green. not a trace of arsenic remained. As a matter of fact, the use of Paris green as against the insect is quite common, although little is said of it, to avoid exciting prejudice, and I have yet to leam of the first case of arsenica poisoning from eating cabbage so treated." (Economic Entomology, page 248.)

Kerosene Emulsion. This material if applied to the plants in the form of a spray will kill the worms but it is less effective than the arseni

cais. It should be used at a strength of one part of the emulsion to twelve or afteen parts of water.

Pyrethrum. This powder is a good contact poison for insects but will not poison humans. If applied often to infested cabbage it will kill the worms but it is much more expensive than Paris green. It is said by some growers to discolor the cabbage leaves.

APPLE ENEMIES. AND HOW TO FIGHT THEM.

W. M. Munson.

As the apple becomes an increasingly important factor in the wealth of the state, the question of protecting this fruit from the ravages of disease and of insects and other enemies, becomes of correspondingly greater moment. The most commonly accepted method of treatment, at present, is by the use of the modern spray pump.

THE REASON FOR SPRAYING.

By far the larger proportion of the enemies of the apple may be held in check by spraying the trees with one or more of the common insecticides or fungicides now offered. By a combination of materials, several enemies may, in many cases, be successfully checked with one application. There should, however, be a definite purpose in view for every application. The mere fact of spraying, is not enough. Vast sums of money are wasted every year because of the use of wrong materials, improper mixing, slovenly or inefficient field work with the pump, or neglect of the operation until too late in the season. Delays are dangera ous! Spraying is a preventive measure and not a cure, and should be looked upon as, in a sense, plant insurance.

HOW TO SPRAY.

Use a good spray pump, and do not fear to apply plenty of pressure, The best results are obtained from the use of a power sprayer which will give 100 to 200 pounds pressure. Sprinking is not spraying! The spray should be applied as a fine mist which will settle all over the tree,-on the under as well as on the upper surfaces of the leaves. There is a tendency in some parts of the country to return to the use of the coarse nozzle which was in use 20 years ago, and to depend upon high pressure to force the spraying material where desired. It is doubtful,

however, if, in our moist climate, and for general orchard practice, this can be recommended, as yet. Studies of this question are in progress at several experiment stations at the present time.

The fine mist referred to, is best produced by using a fine nozzle (as Vermorel, Friend, Mistry, or some similar type) and high pressure; and every portion of the tree should be covered,-top, sides, branches, trunk.

In order to reach the tops of the trees, a bamboo extension rod is almost Indispensable (but be sure and get one with a shut-off cock at the base.) One thorough spraying at the right time is worth 10 careless treatments..

WHEN TO SPRAY.

An early spring treatment with lime-sulphur, or with copper sulphate or Bordeaux mixture, is a most valuable aid in controlling the fungous diseases, such as apple scab, bitter rot, canker, etc.; also it might be added, for leaf curl and scab of peach, and for brown rot, plum pockets, and probably black knot of plum. Spray early and, especially in wet seasons, spray often-not fewer than 4 or 5 times during the season. If a heavy rain occur soon after spraying, repeat the treatment. Spraying mixture that is washed to the ground is of no value as a protection to the trees. If one of the soluble oils is used, application should be made in fall or early winter.

For the San Jose scale, spraying must be done in fall, winter or spring, before the bud starts. It is generally conceded that spring is the best time for treatment with lime-sulphate mixture, but owing to pressure of other work, and to the condition of the ground in spring, this treatment is frequently given too early for the best results.

OTHER FACTORS INVOLVED.

Spraying will not insure a bountiful crop of perfect fruit, any more than carrying an insurance policy, or maintaining a well filled medicine chest will ward off the ills to which man is subject. Clean cultivation, the removal of dead wood and of decayed and diseased fruits, leaves, and branches; the admission of air and sunlight, by proper pruning: a well drained, friable soil; an abundance of plant food-these and many other factors which go to make up what is universally recognized as "good culture," are essential to the fullest success and satisfaction in commercial fruit growing.

SOME INSECT ENEMIES.

The insect enemies of the apple may be conveniently arranged in groups, viz.: those affecting the roots, the stems and branches, the

foliage, and the fruit.

The chief enemy attacking the root, is the woolly aphis. Of insects affecting the stem and branches, the worst are: borers, scale in

sects, and aphis, including the green lice and one form of the woolly aphis; the foliage enemies include canker worm, tent caterpillar, red-humped caterpillar, bag worm and green aphis; and the fruit enemies include the codling moth larvae, or "apple worm," and the curculio. Specific treatment is required for some of these pests, as with the San Jose scale; while in other cases a general application of preventive or destructive measures will answer for several.

The wocily aphis, as it appears on the roots, may be destroyed by injecting carbon bisulphide into the soil about the base of the tree; also by removing the top soil for a distance of 2 or 3 feet from the base of the tree, and applying a liberal quanity of tobacco dust. Tobacco dust is the safest and most commonly used remedy. For the woolly aphis on the limbs, spray with kerosene emulsion (formula 7.) Borers, both flat-headed and round-headed, are best destroyed by means of a knife and a sharp wire; search being made for them on each individual tree every fall and spring. Preventative measures are sometimes used in the shape of protective bands at the base of the tree; also by the use of some sticky substance, like printers' ink, or tanglefoot, which hinders the beetle from laying its eggs.

The scale insects which give most trouble are the San Jose scale, the oyster-shell bark louse, and the scurfy bark louse. The standard remedy for all of these enemies is to spray, in winter or early spring, before the bud expands, with the lime-sulphur mixture (formula 1) or with one of the soluble oils (formula 2). This spraying must be done when the trees are dormant-from November to March or April -as suggested on page 86.

Aphids, or plant lice, which are often so numerous the latter part of the summer, may usually be detected by the presence of ants in the tops of the trees and on the new twigs. These lice injure the trees by sucking the plant food which should go to mature the new growth. The ants themselves do no harm. They simply feed upon the honey dew, a sweet, sticky substance excreted by the lice. To destroy the lice, spray with kerosene emulsion (formula 7) when the insects are discovered. If spraying is delayed until the leaves curl, many of the pests will escape.

For leaf-eating insects, like tent caterpillar, canker worm or bagworm, spray with arsenical poisons (formula 5 or 6) when the insects first appear. Promptness is very important as the insects are much more easily killed when very young.

For codling moth and curculio, which attack the fruit, spray with formula 5 or 6 just after the blossoms fall and once or twice later, at intervals of 10 days or 2 weeks. Use formula 6 instead of plain Bordeaux mixture, for general spraying during the summer.

COMMON FUNGOUS ENEMIES.

The most commonly recognized diseases of the apple, in West Virginia, are: apple scab, bitter rot, leaf-spot ("frog-eye"), cedar rust,

and canker. With all of these troubles, preventive measures are of the greatest importance. Destroy all diseased leaves, fruit and wood, and spray with the proper material before the plants are attecked. Spraying may check the spread of some diseases, but it will not serve

as a cure.

For apple scab, spray with copper sulphate (formula 4) before the buds open; with Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead (formula 6) immediately after the blossoms fall, and again 2 weeks later. If the season is very moist, repeat the application once or twice during the summer; but usually 3 or 4 sprayings are sufficient.

For bitter rot, remove all diseased fruits which remain on the tree, and burn these, together with all infested fruit and litter under the tree; spray with copper sulphate (formula 4) before buds open, --unless lime-sulphur mixture has been used for the scale; after July 1, spray about once in 2 weeks with Bordeaux mixture (formula 3). If the season is very wet and hot, it may be necessary to spray the particular varieties attacked as often as every week or 10 days, removing and destroying all diseased fruit as it appears; if season is very dry, less frequent spraying is required. Blighted twigs and cankered wood should be removed and burned, and too much emphasis can not be laid upon the importance of burning at once the old mummied fruit, both on the tree and that which has fallen, and the newly diseased fruit as fast as it appears during the summer.

For leaf spot (“frog-eye"), destroy all litter and diseased leaves around the trees; spray with copper sulphate (formula 4) or with Bordeaux mixture (formula 3a) before blooming, if lime-sulphur has not been used; spray with Bordeaux-arsenate (formuda 6) immediately after blooming, and repeat at intervals of three or four weeks during the season. The number of sprayings required will depend upon the character of the season.

For cedar rust, burn all diseased leaves and litter; destroy all cedar trees within 1⁄2 mile of the orchard; spray with Bordeaux mixture as for other leaf diseases.

For canker, remove and burn all canker twigs, and cut out canker spots on trunk and large branches, painting the wounds with pure white lead and linseed oil to facilitate healing. Canker of the wood appears as one form of several diseases of the apple. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture for these diseases will tend to reduce this trouble.

SUMMARY OF TREATMENT FOR APPLE ENEMIES.

(a). Burn all deceased leaves, fruit and other litter; also cut out and burn all dead limbs and diseased spots on trunk and branches. (b). For San Jose scale, spray in fall or early spring with limesulphur mixture or one of the soluble oils. The lime-sulphur treatment is also an aid in the control of fungous diseases.

(c).

In the absence of the lime-sulphur treatment, spray in early