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twelve to twenty feet thick: at others not more than a foot or eighteen inches.
After fishing about an hour, Kekauruohe and her companions returned with a quantity of limpets, periwinkles, &c. of which they made a hearty supper.. The wind died away with the setting of the sun, until about 9 P. M., when a light breeze came from the land and wasted them on their passage.
The southern shore of Ranai is usually avoided by masters of vessels acquainted with the navigation among the islands, on account of the light and variable winds, or rather calms, generally experienced there; the course of the trade-winds being intercepted by the high lands of Maui and Ranai. It is not unusual for vessels passing that way to be becalmed there for six, eight, or even ten days. The natives, with the small craft belonging to the islands, usually keep close in shore, and avail themselves of the gentle land breeze to pass the point in the evening, and run into Lahaina with the sea breeze in the morning. But this is attended with danger, as there is generally a heavy swell rolling in towards the land. One or two vessels have escaped being drifted on the rocks only by the prompt assistance of their boats,
4th. At day-break they found themselves within about four miles of Lahaina, which is the principal district in Maui, on account of its being the general residence of the chiefs, and the common resort of ships that touch at the island for refreshments. A dead calm prevailed, but, by means of two large sweeps worked by four hands each, they reached the roads, and anchored at 6 o'clock in the morning.
The appearance of Lahaina from the anchorage, is singularly romantic and beautiful. A fine sandy beach stretches along the margin of the sea, lined, for a considerable distance, with houses, and adorned with shady clumps of kou trees, or waving groves of cocoa-nuts. The level land of the whole district, for about three miles, is one continued garden, laid out in beds of taro, potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, or
MR. ELLIS AT LAHAINA.
cloth plants. The lowly cottage of the farmer is seen peeping through the leaves of the luxuriant plantain and banana trees, and, in every direction, white columns of smoke ascend, curling up among the wide spreading branches of the bread fruit. The sloping hills immediately behind, and the lofty mountains in the interiour, clothed with verdure to their very summits, intersected by deep and dark ravines, or divided by winding vallies, terminate the delightful prospect.
Shortly after coming to anchor, a boat came from the Barge for the chiefs on board, and Mr. Ellis accompanied them to the shore.
On landing, he was kindly greeted by Keoua, governor of the place, and shortly afterwards was met and welcomed by Mr. Stewart, who was just returning from morning worship with Keopuolani and her husband. They waited on the king in his tent, were courteously received, and, after spending a few minutes with him, walked together about half a mile, through groves of plantain and sugar-cane, over a well cultivated tract of land, to Mr. Butler's establishment, in one of whose houses the missionaries were comfortably accommodated until their own could be erected. Mr. Ellis was kindly received by all the members of the mission family.
After breakfast, he walked down to the beach, and there learned that the king had sailed for Morokai, and that Kalakua intended to follow in the schooner in which she had come from Oahu. This obliged him to wait for the Ainoa, another native vessel hourly expected at Lahaina, on her way to Hawaii, The forenoon was spent in conversation with Keopuolani and the chiefs, who appeared gratified with an account of the attention given to the means of instruction at Oahu, and desirous that the people of Lahaina might enjoy all the advantages of Christian education. Taua, the native teacher from Huahine, appeared diligently employed among Keopuolani's people, and Mr. Ellis was happy to learn from Messrs.
Stewart and Richards, that he was vigilant and faithful in his work.
5th. At sun-rise, Messrs. Stewart and Ellis walked down to Keopuolani's, and conducted worship in the large house on the beach. About fifty persons were present. In the afternoon he accompanied his brethren to their schools on the beach. The proficiency of many of the pupils in reading, spelling, and writing on slates, was very pleasing.
Just as they had finished their afternoon instructions, a party of musicians and dancers arrived before the house of Keopuolani, and commenced a hura ka raau, (dance to the beating of a stick.) Five musicians advanced first, each with a staff in his left hand, five or six feet long, about three or four inches diameter at one end, and tapering off to a point at the other. In his right hand he held a small stick of hard wood, three inches long, with which he commenced his music by striking the small stick on the larger one, beating time, all the while with his right foot on a stone, placed on the ground beside him for
Six women, fantastically dressed, crowned with garlands of flowers, having also wreaths of flowers on their necks, and branches of the fragrant maire, (a native plant,) bound round their ancles,'now made their way by couples through the crowd, and, arriving at the clear space, on one side of which the musicians stood, began their dance. Their movements were slow, and though not always graceful, exhibited nothing offensive to modest propriety. Both musicians and dancers alternately cantilateci songs in honour of former gods and chiefs of the islands, apparently much to the gratification of the numerous spectators. After they had continued their hura. (song and dance,) for about half an hour, Keopuolani requested them to leave off, as the time had arrived for conducting evening worship.
The music ceased; the dancers sat down; and after the missionaries and some of the people had sung one
of the songs of Zion, Mr. Ellis preached to the surrounding multitude with special reference to their former idols, and the customs connected therewith, from Acts xvii, 30; "The times of this ignorance God winked at, but now commandeth all men every where to repent.” The people were attentive; and when the service was finished, dispersed, and the dancers returned to their houses.
As the missionaries were on their way home, the voice of lamentation arrested their attention. Listening a few moments, they found it proceeded from a lowly cottage, nearly concealed by rows of sugar cane. When they reached the spot, they beheld a middle aged woman and two elderly men weeping around the mat of a sick man, apparently near his end. They found him entirely ignorant of God, and of a future state; spake to him of Jehovah, of the fallen condition of man, and of the amazing love of Christ in suffering death for the redemption of the world; and recommended him to pray to the Son of God, who was able to save to the uttermost. He said that until now he knew nothing of these things, and was glad he had heard of them. They requested one of his friends to come to their house for some medicine, and having endeavoured to comfort the mourners, bade them farewell.
6th. This morning the Ainoa' was seen approaching from the southward, and about 2, P. M. she came to an anchor, having been becalmed off Ranai four days.
This day being the Sabbath, at half past ten the mission family walked down to the beach for public worship. Most of the chiefs, and about three hundred people assembled under the pleasant shade of a beautiful clump of kou trees, in front of Keopuolani's house. After singing and prayer, Mr. Ellis preached from Luke x, 23, 24. (Blessed are the eyes which see the things which ye see, for I tell you, that many prophets and kings have desired to see those things which ye see, and have not seen
them, and to hear those things which ye hear, and have not heard them."
When the mission family, after service, went to say aroha, (present their salutations) to Keopuolani, they found her, Kaikioeva, and several others, conversing about Tamehameha and others of their ancestors, who had died idolaters; and expressing their regret that the Gospel had not been brought to the Sandwich Islands in their day. "But perhaps," said Keopuolani, "they will have less punishment in the other world for worshipping idols, than those, who, though they do not worship wooden gods, yet see those days, and hear those good things, and still disregard them."* As they returned, Mr. Ellis vis
ited the sick man, found him rather better than the preceding evening, and again recommended the Son of God to him as all-sufficient to save.
He afterwards saw a party at buhenehene, (a favourite native game,) went up to them, told them, after a few minutes conversation, that it was the sacred day of God, and induced them to put aside their play, and promise to attend public worship in the afternoon. Leaving them, he passed through a garden, in which a man was at work, whom he asked, if he did not know it was the sacred day of God, and improper for him to work The man answered, Yes; he knew it was the la tabu, (sacred day,) and that Karaimoku had given orders for the people of Lahaina not to work on that day; but said he was hana maru no, (just working secretly,) that it was some distance from the beach, and the chiefs would not see him. Mr. Ellis then told him he might do it without the chiefs' seeing him, but it was prohibited by a higher power than the chiefs, even by the God of heaven and earth, who could see him alike in every place by night and by day. He said he did not know that before, and would leave off when
Keopuolani was descended from the kings of Hawaii; and was the favourite wife of Tamehameha, and the mother of Rihoriho. She died Sept. 16, 1823, after having given much evidence of piety. A memoir of her, written by one of the missionaries at Lahaina, has since been published. Ed.