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gained the reeds near the bank, still the water was and one of the canoe-bearers as a guide, I prodeep, and it was necessary to tow up the canoe, ceeded without delay to Port Natal, in the hope partly by their stems and partly by wading, before of procuring another horse, and sending back I could effect a landing. Had there been people supplies for the party. On that evening, the 29th, sufficient for the operation, the communication about sunset, I reached Port Natal, and was might even now have been kept up by carrying kindly received by Mr. Collis, the principal trader, the canoe round to a spot higher up the stream, and on the following afternoon my interpreter and thence crossing diagonally to the station joined me, but with no very agreeable news. where the party still remained. But as I had the Either the men had been alarmed, or the horses only good swimmer of the party with me, and all became unmanageable in the water-probably the rest were alarmed by the numbers of alliga- from both causes, two pack horses had broken tors which infest this river, nothing more could be loose, and were represented as having been cardone than to haul her up to the top of the bank. ried rapidly down by the current, where, from the Having no provisions with me, excepting a little peculiar nature of the banks, there can be little damaged sugar, urged by the qualms of hunger I hope of their extricating themselves until swept I felt thankful that no human life at length persuaded my companion to entrust him- into the sea. self again to the watery element in quest of a had been lost, which, from the gravity of the anloaf of bread. It was now quite dark, and he had nouncement, I had reason to apprehend. Withbeen so long absent, that I feared some accident out waiting for the men who were left to search had happened to him, or that, tired of these aqua- for the horses, I procured a wagon, and, with a tic excursions at so unseasonable an hour, he had sufficient supply of provisions, continued my jourvery quietly left me to make the best of my ad- ney on the 31st. But we had not proceeded vanced position. In truth it was no enviable one. more than ten miles, before we were again stopI was standing in a gap among reeds considerably ped by the Umgani, a river of some size, but inabove my head, among which on both sides of ferior to the two last, which had impeded our prome, and certainly from the loudness of their snort- gress, each of which are equal in width to the ing and hard breathing, not many yards distant, Umzimvoobo. The water was not then rising, the hippopotami were so thick that I stood with and as the following day was Sunday, there was my paddle uplifted, every instant expecting a rush every expectation that it would abate sufficiently to be made. Willing to ascertain my probable to admit of the wagon's crossing; in this, howfate, I called out to the people on the opposite ever, we were mistaken. On Sunday afternoon bank, to inform me whether or not I was to ex-it was again on the ascendant; and as but a few pect an attack from these unwelcome visiters, but inches more would render it impassable even for to this anxious inquiry no reply reached my ears.* horses, I felt the necessity of either immediately At length my swimming friend appeared, but with-effecting the passage, or waiting an indefinite out the expected loaf; all had been disposed of time until it became practicable. Although rebefore his arrival. My canister of sugar was luctant to infringe upon the sacred hours of this again resorted to, and with the zest of a school-day, it appeared to be one of those urgent cases boy; I first rewarded the native for his trouble in which the duty was obvious; by the assistance, with a little of the saccharine paste, for such was therefore, of Mr. Stubbs (a hunter,) who knew its present consistency, and then scooped out a the river, and the natives of a neighboring vil portion for my supper. Although no longer an-lage, who conveyed the baggage across on their noyed by hippopotami, I soon felt far more sen-heads, I quitted the wagon, and slept in one of sibly disturbed by an insignificant animal which the huts, about three quarters of a mile distant. here abounds in millions. For some time I at-The next morning, February 2nd, I set out, actempted to sleep in the canoe, but the mosquitos companied by my interpreter, and three natives were too active to render that possible; a grove carrying the baggage, to traverse an uninhabited of trees higher up was then tried, but even there district of about seventy miles to the Tugala, no respite was to be found-at last, driven from which we reached on the following evening, havplace to place, I sank down exhausted upon the ing slept in the open air about mid-way on the wet grass at a distance from the bushes, and there preceding night. Long before we reached the without a covering contrived to sleep until the river, the hills in the Zoolu country were visible, morning. Our river guide was now in active and I never shall forget the interest with which operation, and with much ingenuity he soon con- I perceived the first curl of smoke rising from a structed a sort of reed pontoon on which the bag-distant village in that direction. Many were the gage was placed, and swimming with one hand, and urging forward his bundle of reeds with the other, he conveyed in this manner the whole of the articles across, of course the greater part of them dripping wet. The form is not unlike that of a boat, the two short sticks are for the purpose of attaching the articies to be conveyed, and to enable the person swimming at the side to prevent it from rolling over.

As soon as my horse had been conveyed across,

* I have since understood that they will attack even on shore, but that very rarely, and generally in self-defence.

reflections which at that moment passed my mind, and the nearer we approached the more anxious I became to cross the narrow boundary, and feel that I was standing upon Zoolu ground, and in the midst of a people I had been so desirous to visit.

On this side of the river, now considered the southern limit of that country, there are, indeed, a few scattered villages of a Zoolu tribe, called, in derision by their late sovereign (Charka,) Amanpaci, (literally wolf people,) on account of their alleged ill conduct in one of his campaigns; but the entire population does not exceed three or four hundred, residing near the banks and in the neigh borhood of the ford.

The chief of this small clan, Mambayendi, made | misunderstanding to exist; accordingly, much his appearance the next morning, but not even his against the inclination of my party as also of the authority, nor the more direct assistance of some villagers, who, by exaggerating the distance and European hunters, who, with their wagons, were the difficulties of walking in the dark, dissuaded me stationed here at the time, could avail in convey- from proceeding until the morning, I immediately ing the two horses across the swollen stream, now set out, and reached the town (Clomanthleen Inthiat its height, and which had already been unford- lopi) before the Indoona (Nongalaza) had retired. able for a considerable time. Happily for me, two He was seated on the ground, in front of his hut, of the hunting party were still on the opposite side, and in the middle of a half circle of the principal where a rudely constructed skin canoe was haul- people, all decorated with thick brass rings round ed up for their convenience, among the reeds. their throats, and a few also on the right arm. He' This, after a certain expenditure of breath and received me. with great civility, appeared surpristrial of lungs, was at last forthcoming, and sculled ed at my travelling so late, and ordered a bundle across; by this means, in two trips, myself, my or two of imphi (a spurious sugar cane, much culinterpreter, and a native named Umpondombeeni tivated throughout the country,) to be placed beordered by Mambayendi to accompany me, one fore us for present consumption. My want of proper saddle and bridle, and a certain proportion of bag- attendants seemed to excite their curiosity, which gage, were conveyed across. After performing the state of the rivers sufficiently explained, and, thus much, the exertion was found too great to after a long conversation in the open air, in which bring over a party of baggage-bearers who were it was recommended that I should remain until their to have accompanied me: and as for the horses, sovereign Dingarn had been apprised of my arrival, the very attempt would in all probability have cost we were shown to our huts, which were larger the lives of the boatmen, so that this was at once and neater that any I had yet seen. During my abandoned. Indeed, when I consider the rapidity stay here, the whole regiment, for this is one of the of the stream-the number of alligators-and the eskands or barrack towns, were often assembled construction of the canoe, in shape like a reversed without the fence, to practise their songs and tortoise-shell, and scarcely two inches from the dances preparatory to exhibiting in their turn bewater at the gunwale, with the extraordinary re- fore Dingarn, at his residence, Unkunginglove. volutions which we made during the traget, that! As these, with the various evolutions, were exactly we ourselves were landed in safety was a provi- similar to those which I afterwards witnessed on an dential circumstance, and which at one time I larger scale, although there could not have been scarcely thought possible. But I forgot all, in find-less than eight or nine hundred men present, I ing myself on Zeolu ground, and thanked my God shall postpone the description, as also of the infor having thus far prospered my way. On reach-termediate country to the capital, which will be ing a village about one mile and a half distant, more circumstantially described hereafter in the where we slept, I made every endeavor through the journal. When about half way, a petty chief arnumzana (head man) to procure baggage-bearers rived with orders to conduct me to the capital, and for the journey; but although I had been informed to kill a beast for us at the first place where he on the other side that here they could more readily should meet us. Dingarn had expressed his debe hired, there seemed little prospect of success. sire that I should proceed, saying, that "I was his The views from this side are beautiful-both are white man, and must make haste." I shall now hilly; but on that we had just left the mimosas proceed at once to my first view of Unkunginglove and other trees are very luxuriant, while this is on the afternoon of the 10th. This was obtained comparatively bare, and when seen in connexion from a rocky hill, covered with aloes and mimosas, with the river, which winds among rocky banks, intermixed with several large cauliflower-shaped the prospect is very striking. It was late the next euphorbia trees, growing to the height of sixty or morning (the 5th) before we could move forward, seventy feet. Having descended to a beautiful and then only with temporary bearers, to a neigh- spot, a continuation of the same ridge to which I boring village, and one horse, which happening had pushed forward, for the sake of quietly enjoyto be on this side, I hired for the remainder of the ing a scene, to me so fraught with interest, I dis journey. When we reached the next village, the mounted under a wooded knoll, whence the circular same difficulty respecting the transport of the bag-fence of the town appeared like a distant racegage again occurred, and finding the matter hope- course on the left, while a range of rugged mounless among these petty numzanas, I sent, as recom-tains, one remarkably table-topped. rising towards mended by the headman here, for the necessary the north, hemmed in the prospect on the opposite permission to the Indoona of a large military town not far distant, without whose sanction, it appeared, these inferior chiefs were reluctant to take the responsibility of assisting me with men. The sun had nearly set, when the messenger returned to inform me that a sufficient number of men would be appointed, but that the Indoona had expressed his surprise that I had not first applied to him.

As

side. Near this point the road branched off, one path leading to the principal gate of the town, and the other to the Issicordlo, or king's quarter, but which I had not perceived among the trees. no voices were heard, and after waiting an ample time no traces of the party could be seen, I concluded that they must have passed unperceived, and accordingly made the best of my way by the only well-worn path that I could discern, and Circumstanced as I now was, a perfect stranger which I could distinctly trace to the very fence of in a strange country, with only two attendants, the town. On reaching a shallow stream, which my interpreter, and a Zoolu, of whom as yet II forded, I suddenly found myself surrounded by knew nothing, I considered it would be the height thirty or forty women, who, laughting and shoutcf imprudence to allow even the appearance of a ing as they went, accompanied me as I proceeded

meat having now been duly apportioned, he slowly approached the place where we were seated, and in solemn silence stood motionless like a statue before me until a chair was brought from within, when he at last sat down and commenced a long conversation. His first inquiries were respecting the conduct of the guides, who were also present, seated in a group, but who were readily pardon

towards a gate in the outer fence of the town, still under the idea that the party were in advance, and fearing that I should be deprived of the advantages of an interpreter at the very time when his services would be the most needed. At this moment, a person suddenly came up, and seizing the bridle of my horse, without further ceremony, turned him short round. The effect was so immediate and unexpected, that I did not at first re-ed on the assurance which I gave that if blame cognise the individual, and struck at his hand with a stick; but in a moment I found that it was my servant, Umpondombeoni, and from the hurry of his demeanor, and the extense anxiety he por,trayed by his countenance, felt at once convinced that all was not right. Submitting therefore to his guidance, he soon conducted me to the party, anxiously awaiting my return upon the road which I should have taken, and where I found many of the baggage-bearers actually in tears, and all under the highest state of agitation and alarm.

No causeless fears were theirs, for had I proceeded and entered by the gate I was approach ing, they would all, it appears, by the custom of the country have atoned for my mistake by their lives, and, as it was, there was still an apprehension that some at least would be capitally punished. We We soon after entered the town, and on application to the principal Indoona (Umthlella) two huts not far from his own dwelling were appointed, into one of which I was not sorry to creep after the fatigues of the journey, having walked and ridden alternately since leaving the Tugala.

were attached it must entirely rest with me, as I had mistaken the road while in advance of the party. He then requested to know the object of my visit, which I found great difficulty in explaining.

That my views were not in any degree connected with trade he could understand, but what was God, and God's word, and the nature of the instruction I proposed, were subjects which he could not at all comprehend. In order to give him some illustration, I related a few of the leading circumstances which in other heathen countries had led to the worship of God, and contrasted their superior character, and the many advantages which they possessed since their reception of Christianity, with their former condition. He asked if his people could learn also, and seemed to regard the whole as an impossibility. The subject of the presents was then adverted to; but on this unfortunately I had little to say, but that they were on their way, and I hoped would arrive safely; still he was not satisfied until I had not only enumerated every article, but entered into a minute descripA bundle of imphi and a large bowl of outchuallation of each. The mention of a red cloak quite (native beer) was sent to my hut by order of Dingarn, and a messenger soon after signified his wish to see me. Crossing the area of the circular town, accompanied by the chief who had been despathed by Dingarn to conduct me to the capital, we were desired to sit at a short distance from the fence which surrounds the Issigōrdlo (or palace). After a little pause the bust only of a very stout personage appeared above the fence, which I was soon informed was the despot himself; he eyed me for a considerable time with the utmost gravity without uttering a word; at last pointing to an ox that had been driven near, he said, "There is the beast I give you to slaughter," and on this important announcement he disappeared. The carcasses of several oxen, recently killed, were at this time lying in separate heaps not far from the gate of his fence, the quarters divided and piled one upon another, and in order, no doubt, to exhibit at once his wealth and his munificence; he again appeared slowly emerging from the arched gateway, and advancing with a measured step to the nearest animal mound. Instantly he was surrounded by fourteen or fifteen men who ran from a distance and crouched before him; a word and a nod were then given, and as quickly they arose and carried off the meat at full speed, holding it up the whole way with extended arms, and singing as they went. Another heap was then approached, and as systematically distributed, and so on until the whole had been conveyed away in a similar pantomimic manner. Dingarn was habited in a blue dungaree cloak relieved by a white border and devices at the back; the train swept the ground, and, although tarnished and worn, well became his height and portly figure. The soldiers'

filled his mind, and seemed likely to suit his fancy more than all the rest. He then asked if my king's name was George, and, on the mention of our gracious sovereign, inquired how he govern ed his people. With so many decided proofs of despotism around, I considered this as rather a delicate question, and therefore avoided the circumstance of parliamentary interference altogether, by informing him that king William governed his people by means of his great men. He smiled and seemed evidently to regard even this as an inconvenient approximation to popular institutions. Finding that he had now sufficiently relaxed in state reserve, I thought it a favorable opportunity again to revert to the subject of teaching, and requested permission to build a house for that purpose; but this was a knotty point, the objections to which I had yet to learn; no denial however was given, and I took my leave with a full understanding that a person should accompany me on the following day to direct me in the selection of the spot. Dingarn had already expressed a desire to see "the Book," of which I had spoken so much, and now reminded me to bring it with me on my next visit.

For three days subsequently he was unwell, and on the second sent to apologize for not seeing me. My next interview was in the Issigōrdlo, where I found the king reclining on a head-stool at the door of his house before which I was desired to seat myself on a mat. His first question was whether I had brought "the Book," on which my pocket testament was produced, and at his desire delivered into his hand; but after turning over the leaves with much curiosity for a few minutes, returned to me again. On requesting that I would

11

occur. Nothing seemed to gratify them more than to find that I returned to the town when thus summarily ordered, or to announce on my applica tion to Umthlella for the cause of this intrusion that they had directed it, palliating the affront by merely saying that they wished me to sit down and talk with them. So systematic was this species of persecution, that on one occasion, as I was leaving the town, one of the inferior Indoonas, a very powerful man, more than six feet high, took me by the shoulder and attempted to obstruct my passage in the gate. I immediately walked up to Umthlella and Tambooza, seated with a group of people round them, not far distant, and inquired if it was by their sanction that strangers were thus ill treated. The only reply was that they had sent him to call me, as they wished me to join them, and converse.

then read the words of the Book, I read in order a number of passages previously selected, as exhibiting the nature and penalty of sin, the power and omniscience of God, and the auful day of account when he will judge the world in righteousness. At the conclusion he asked several very pertinent questions, such as,-" Where is God? How did he give his Word? Who will be judged at the last day? What nations will appear? Will mine be there? Shall I live for ever if I learn his Word?" Two women only were in his house, and but one chief attended me, so that it might be considered a confidential meeting, and to me was particularly interesting. Before I left I reminded him of his promise respecting the house, on which he inquired if the open court in which I was then standing would do, and from the friendly manner in which it was expressed, I almost thought it possible that he might take my hint, and roof it in for the purpose, but now for the first time he mention- sents might have greatly contributed to place mo Supposing that the non-appearance of the preed a reference to the Indoonas as requisite before in my present dilemma, I waived the opportunity this matter could be finally decided. Hitherto I which soon after occurred, of making a direct had been treated with great civilty by all, but an complaint to Dingarn, and contented myself with unaccountable change was now but too apparent. hinting the advantage of sending a messenger to Although the government is absolute, a consider- Port Natal, to ascertain whether the wagon had able share of power is vested in the hands of the yet arrived; adding that, should that be the case, two principal Indoonas of the nation, who are al- the presents might be forwarded without delay. ways consulted and generally supposed to sanction This arrangement was no sooner proposed, than every important measure of their sovereign, and messengers were appointed; and by this means I in this manner it becomes a convenient triumvi- also succeeded in sending a letter to England, which, rate, contracting or expanding its powers within under my present circumstances, was a great itself according to the humor of the ruling despot. relief. Had this letter reached its destination, it These two important personages, Umthlella and would have been a singular production. It was Tambooza, I must now introduce-the one a chief written upon the only half sheet of paper that I of hereditary rank, of a slight person, and a mild possessed, by the light of a lamp made by placing and intelligent countenance; the other sufficiently native butter in a small calabash, and inserting a indicating, without the science of Lavater, a cha-rag wick. Some essidoodo (my usual meal) supracter for tyranny and insolence but too exactly cor- plied the paste for a wafer. The shed hoof of a responding with his scowling profile. From some calf is not a bad substitute for a lamp when a calacause or other of which I was perfectly uncon-bash cannot be procured. On this occasion I fully scious, unless it was my determination not to make confidants of either, but to treat only with the king on the object of my visit, they not only treated me about this time with every indignity, but by their rude example induced the people to accost us with insolence, and often to salute us with opprobrious epithets as we passed. Even my walks were distributed, and often, while seated under my favorite tree, about three quarters of a mile from the town, a message would be sent in the king's name to desire that I would immediately return. On one of these occasions my interpreter happened to be near Umthlella's house when the order was issued, and heard Tambooza's further instructions that in case I should not willingly come they were to drag me along. Doubtful how far they had the power, or to what extent they might be acting under the king's directions-as I had not been able to approach him for some days, and they assured me that without their sanction I should not have another interview-I thought it prudent to bear all without reproaching them, with a full intention of stating the whole circumstances to Dingarn on the very first opportunity that should

This extraordinary tree, of which I have only met with a few, has no leaves, but the branches protrude numbers of green pipes containing a milky liquid.

thought some treachery was meditated. Umthella had again taken upon himself to send for me, and enter, begging that he would himself come out. on reaching his hut, I hesitated, when required to The messenger who had called me, and whom I knew to be a principal person, assured me that Umthella was alone in the hut, but, to my surprise, on crawling in, the sides were lined with men. Umthella commenced a long preamble, by inform ing me, as he had often done before, that Tambooza and himself were the King's eyes and ears, and that all matters of importance must be first notified to them before they could be expressed to him. He then pointed to the messengers about to proceed to Port Natal, and who were then present, saying, that whatever message I wished them to take must be delivered to them now. peared to be no alternative, and, surrounded as I There apwas by so unexpected a party, I delivered a short message, reserving the remainder for a note, which was given to them on their departure. From this time, matters gradually assumed a more pacific character: they had in vain attempted to wear out my patience; and, probably, finding that they tion, the system of annoyance was dropped, and could not irritate me into any overt act of retaliathe change in their manner so apparent, that I cannot but think they had received some positive rebuke from the Dingarn on the subject. My in,

terviews with the King were now more frequent; but although I made it a point never to leave him without giving him a hint respecting my desire to commence teaching his people, and constructing a house for the purpose, no decisive answer could ever be extracted-that he would take an opportunity of consulting with the Indoonas, was the invariable reply. Since my return to Port Natal, the following story has been related to me, which, I doubt not, has operated much to my disadvantage, and will in a great measure account for the recent strange conduct of the two Indoonas.Jacob, the native intepreter of the late Lieutenant Farewell, who was the first settler at Port Natal, from some cause became greatly incensed against the settlers, and took every opportunity to prejudice them in the eyes of Charka, at that time the sovereign of this country. He assured him that a white man, assuming the character of a teacher or missionary, would arrive among them, and obtain permission to build a house; that, shortly after, he would be joined by one or two more white men; and in the course of time, an army would enter his country, which would subvert his government, and, eventually, the white people would rule in

his stead.

ance. For women, they seemed to be in a high state of discipline, and rather enjoyed the display than otherwise; and Dingarn seemed highly grati fied at the well-merited encomiuins which I paid to his taste, every one of these devices having originated in his fertile imagination. It was nearly dark before this extraordinary exhibition was ended, Dingarn, during the latter part, frequently turning round, and addressing me thus:-"Are we not a merry people? What black nations can vie with us! Who among them can dress as we do?" It was some of these ladies whom I met on my first approach to the town, after missing my party-they had then been bathing; but I have frequently met large parties of them carrying burdens for the use of the Issigordlo, and more than once seen them march out, with Dingarn at their head, and employ themselves in weeding his corn and imphi grounds, while he inspected the crop.

CHAPTER II.

My mind was much relieved by the return of One afternoon, while occupied in what may be the messengers, who not only brought the wel esteemed a very puerile amusement, planning out come intelligence of Mr. Berken's safe arrival with the rooms of a house, with stones laid together on the wagons at Port Natal, but some substantial the ground on the spot, which (if permission could proofs of my integrity to Dingarn in the longbe obtained) I had selected for the mission build- promised presents, some of which, indeed, had so ings, a messenger, running and breathless, came deteriorated in their various submersions by the to inform me that Dingarn was waiting to see me. way, that they were scarcely produceable, while, I found the King seated near the fence of some to my great satisfaction, that which was most detached houses at the back of the Issigōrdlo, prized, the red cloak, was in the best preservation. where I was joined by my interpreter, who inform- For the selection of this article, which was comed me that several messengers had already been posed of red baize, with a long silky nap, such as despatched for me in different directions. Din- is often used in lining the collars of boat cloaks, garn appeared in high good-humor, but with a I am indebted to Mr. Fynn, who kindly recomdegree of mystery which rather prepared me for some strange antic. He began some trifling conversation to eke out the time, when suddenly the head of a column of the most grotesque looking figures debouched from their ambush on the right, and marched past four deep, raising and lowering their bent arms, as though in the act of tugging at steeple bell-ropes, and repeating two lines of a song as they passed, which may be thus transla. ted:

Arise, vulture!

Thou art the bird that eateth other birds." When they had passed and repassed in this order, they appeared again, broken into irregular companies, according to the color of their dresses, -and seeing that I admired the arrangement of the beads, with which they were literally covered, they were ordered to advance in files, and approach nearer, that their dresses might be inspected. They proved to be no other than the King's women, about ninety in number, decorated as they usually are previous to the army taking the field. Their faces were veiled with pendants of beads, with which also the petticoat was covered, forming an elegant checkered pattern, while their throats and arms were adorned with large brass rings. Some wore short cloaks also covered with different-colored beads, and all two strange head feathers, which gave them a very uncouth appear

mended it to me, in Graham's Town, as a description of cloth in color and texture more likely to please his Zoolu majesty than any other that could be procured; and, certainly, no advice could have been more correctly given. No sooner was it opened, than it was displayed in every possible manner; first, on the king's shoulders, then on one of his servants, who was ordered to turn and twist about in all directions, that its every bearing and fold might be shown off to the best advantage; it was then stretched to its widest extent, and two men, holding it up at arm's length, were directed to run at full speed backwards and forwards, that he might witness its appearance while flowing in the air; at length, for some minutes it was hung upon the fence opposite his own house, that the curiosity of the people who were viewing it from a distance might be satisfied. Strange to say, after all this display, he never even wore it, but has had it carefully preserved ever since for the grand national assembly at the feast of the first fruits, which takes place annually about the first week in January. In the evening I received the important information, by special messenger, that it was neither too long nor too short, but exactly suited.

Dingarn, with all his barbarity, is dearly fond of a joke, and one morning sent for me and my interpreter, for the sole purpose of affording some amusement. The open court which surrounds