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to inspect the huts of Culula occasionally, and see that the oxen presented to me by Dingarn were proper attended to in my absence.

Nombamba, another of my servants, a fine active young man, volunteered to accompany me, which I accepted; while poor Seenda, Mankanjana's brother, whom I was educating, expressed by his looks an equal desire, though he was far too young for such a jaunt. Yesterday morning, about nine o'clock, the wagons being properly packed, and the people arranged in their places, we commenced the journey, stopping about an hour for some of the oxen at Mr. Pickman's, (the last village in that direction, in the neighborhood of Port Natal.) Mr. Collis accompanied me on horseback to the mid-day halting-place, and soon after took his leave.

It may here be as well to give a list of the equipment:

Two wagons.

rated from the main herd: they were tracked to a considerable distance; and from the speed with which they appeared to have gone off, it was supposed that they had been chased by a lion. Spanned out early, and despatched three men after them, with directions to cut across the country, and meet us again on our arrival at the Inthlangwain villages. They did not, however, proceed far when they fell in with the missing cattle, and returned. Just as we were again setting out a Hottentot arrived on horseback. As he approached, I felt assured that he had been sent to announce the arrival of some vessel in the bay; but far different were the tidings he brought, and most heart-rending the accounts contained in the letters he delivered. Mr. Collis's magazine, containing fifteen hundred pounds of powder, had yesterday exploded; and himself, his infant child, the native nurse, and a Hottentot named Class, had been killed, while several natives had been se verely burnt. The circumstance which led to

Fifty-one draught-oxen, (two of which were this awful scene was related by a native who was

pack-oxen.)

Twelve calves, for slaughtering.

present, and so severely burnt, that it is scarcely thought he can recover. Mr. Collis had gone into

One cow and calf, eight days old, (carried in the store for the purpose of taking out a gun for the wagon while travelling.)

N. B.-As one ox and the cow and calf were left on the road, the total number of cattle was sixty-two.

Class, then in his service, but who had accompanied me from the colony as Mr. Berkin's servant, In order to try the flint, he had imprudently snapped the lock, with the muzzle pointed towards a powder barrel, when the gun which had been carelessly put by loaded, but without priming, went off; and the explosion, which was heard at the Umgăni, took place. The mangled bodies of Mr. Collis and the Hottentot were blown to a con

was in the arms of the servant girl, seated on the outside of an adjoining building, was fractured; and she shortly after died of the injury she had sustained.

So sudden and so awful a summons from time into eternity speaks, in solemn accents, to every heart,-"Prepare to meet thy God." Oh! that this afflictive dispensation may not be without a beneficial influence upon the lives of all in this neighborhood! that this second breach in our small community may teach us so to number our days, that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom! that those who had never yet sought the Lord may seek Him in earnest, while their day of grace remains! and that those who have found Him, and felt that He is indeed precious to their soulsall their hope, and all their desire-may be stimulated to great watchfulness, working while it is day, that when their Lord shall come, they may be found with their lamps trimmed ready for his appearing!

Including Mr. Ogle, who took this opportunity of going to the colony with a native servant and myself, the party consisted of twelve, viz: five Europeans, one Hottentot, and six natives. To European travellers the number of draught-siderable distance; the skull of the infant, which oxen may appear disproportionate, but it would not have been prudent to have set out on such a journey with less than two span of twelve for each wagon, and a few spare ones in case of need; indeed, I should not have hesitated to have added even a few more, could they have been procured. After crossing the Umlass and Umpogōti rivers, the road takes a great circuit to the south-west. This morning, at our first halt, about eleven o'clock, Port Natal was distinctly visible-the nearest part of the bay could not be more than nine or ten miles distant in a direct line, although we had travelled about thirty. The country through which we passed yesterday is broken into moderate hills, covered in patches with trees and underwood, producing abundance of grass, and only requiring the hand of man to develop the natural richness of the soil. During the greater part of the night there has been rain. Passed to-day a very broken country-the mountains generally table-topped, and the trees gradually disappearing as we recede from the coast. At a little before Having despatched the messenger with a short sunset stopped for the night. While toiling up a reply, we proceeded on our journey over an unduvery steep ascent this afternoon, I observed a re-lating country destitute of trees. Soon after sunmarkable tree, about the size of a large apple-set stopped at a spot formerly the site of a native tree, growing near the bank. From the circum- village, but where only sufficient brushwood for stance of its bearing a reddish blossom, and being kindling the fires could be procured. totally divested of leaves, I at first mistook it for Saturday, 26th.—A continuation of the same the umseensi, but on a nearer inspection I found open country, uninteresting to a traveller, but that the blossom was of a deep cherry or blood-likely one day to be held by the grazier in great red color, and am inclined to believe that it is a species little known.

Friday, 25th. This morning we were delayed on account of the oxen, several having sepa

estimation; the downs being extensive and elevated, the soil dry, and the grass shorter and better than that produced on the lower grounds nearer to the sea. This whole district, now a wilderness

was, as I am informed, well inhabited, until the devastating army of Charka swept over these hills. The mere circular site of their perishable dwellings is all that is now apparent, but many of the cattle enclosures, which, from the scarcity of timber, were built of rough stones, are still remaining. Some which we passed are built entirely of mud, piled in blocks, like unburnt brick; others with stone and mud intermixed, in layers, and arranged in the circular form, similar to those which are enclosed with a bush fence.

Mr. Cane, who accompanied me as far as the Inthlangwǎin villages, related a singular method of setting a broken limb, having himself experienced the operation at a spot not far from the track we are now pursuing; his arm having been broken and put out of joint by the overturning of his cart. Several men having assembled at the place, with a native Esculapius at their head, a deep hole was scooped out, and then partly filled with pliant clay; the whole arm, with the hand open, and the fingers curved inwards, was then inserted, when the remainder of the clay that had been prepared was filled in, and beaten closely down. Several men then steadily raised his body perpendicularly to the incased arm, and drew it out by main force. By this simple but somewhat painful method his arm was perfectly reset; and, had he retained the native bandage, would doubtless have grown perfectly straight, but by substituting a sling it has grown out. This, I understand, is the usual practice among all these tribes; and is said to be effectual. Our forenoon's journey was about four hours. In the afternoon several bucks were seen, and a herd of buffalo passed very near to the wagons; one was wounded by Jacob, the Hotentot, but we had not time to pursue them.

By following the track of some Dutch wagons on their return to the colony, and which we afterwards understood had separated at this point, we were thrown considerably out of the road, and obliged to bivouac near the Umagōrda, a branch of the Umcamas, which here occupies a narrow ravine at the foot of the mountains. Had it not been for this circumstance, we should probably have reached Foortu's village this evening, which I was anxious to effect on account of the service to-morrow. Near the stream are a few patches of trees: the rocks are compact sandstone and coarse slate.

Sunday, 27th.

"I have sworn by myself, the word is gone out of my mouth in righteousness, and shall not return; that unto me every knee shall bow, every tongue shall swear."-(Isaiah xlv. 23.)

Lord of the harvest, now descend,

Break up this dry, this fallow ground; May light and life thy word attend; Release the souls in darkness bound.

Ride on victorious to reclaim

The holds which Satan still defends; Proclaim thy great, thy glorious name To all the earth's remotest ends.

Immutable thy promise stands;

Thy purposes of love are sure; The time is set to loose the bands Which Afric's fettered sons endure.

Pity, O Lord! their lost estate;

Attend thy people's earnest cry, Who plead for them, and supplicate,

Oh! leave them not in chains to die.

Shall he, the strong man armed, defy
The armies of the living God!
What! though with walls they're fenced on
high,

Prevailing prayer shall stay the rod.

Is there no son of Jesse here

No champion for the Lord of Hosts? Shall Israel now turn back with fear, In sight of promised Canaan's coasts?

Kindle afresh that holy zeal,

Which fired apostles' hearts of old: Arise, O Lord! thine arm reveal; Enlarge the borders of thy fold.

May many hearts, inclined by grace,

Themselves a free-will offering giveTo publish peace in every place, Where sinners now in darkness live.

Till every border is possessed,

And Christ proclaimed in every land; Till then we would not-dare not restBut forward press at thy command.

And every city compass round,

Till grace shall bid the bulwarks fall, And joy and peace on earth abound, And Jesus shall be all in all.

English service in the forenoon.-Kafir service in the afternoon.

Monday, 28th.-Tedious travelling-one wagon obliged to be dug out of a swamp, and both to be towed separately up a steep hill by both spans united. On the descent from these acclivities, the rocks exhibit many appearances of combination with iron. Crossed another small stream, also a branch of the Umcamas, and soon after the river itself, the bed of which was strewed with rocks, and the water, in some places, scarcely knee-deep. The villages of the Inthlangwain, which had been for some time visible, could only be approached by a wagon, on account of the ruggedness of the ground, by a very circuitous route; that belonging to Foortu, the ruling chief, and at which we arrived soon after noon, is situated on the skirt of the narrow valley at the foot of the mountain; the remainder are generally on higher grounds, and have a pretty effect backed by the dark precipices beyond. In this favored spot vegetation is prolific; some large trees occupy the ravines, both wood and water are convenient, and corn is produced in abundance. There is on the opposite side of the river a salt pan, but it is of small extent; still, as it is the only one known to exist throughout the country on this side of the mountains, it might probably be turned to some account.

In the river are some good fish, one of which was caught. As it is rather an extraordinary event to see wagons in this part, we were soon surrounded by the whole male population; while the women, patient creatures! set heartily to work to grind corn and bake loaves for the journey, the prospect of a few yards of dungaree and some bunches of beads calling forth all their energies.

my present journey, which does not admit of any unnecessary delay, I should not certainly have passed so near without paying these extraordinary people a visit.

The erroneous appellation of "Bushmen," by which the Inthlangwain are commonly known at Port Natal, has obtained, from the circumstance of their having acquired the method of poisoning the assegais which they use in killing the elephant and other wild animals, from a party of wandering Bushmen with whom they were occasionally associated during their residence on the Umzimvoobo. On asking Foortu, in presence of several of his people, whether he should like to have a "Teacher" residing with him, he said, "I should rejoice;" and, after explaining the object of my present journey, and the expectation I had of a missionary being eventually sent to his people, he replied, "I cannot believe that it will be so; it is what I desire to see, and that which would make me glad."On the subject of religion they are equally as dark as their neighbors the Zoolus. They acknowledged, indeed, a traditionary account of a Supreme Being, whom they called Ŏukoolukoolu, (literally the Great-Great) but knew nothing further respecting him, than that he originally issued from the reeds, created men and cattle, and taught them the use of the assegai. They knew not how long the issitoota, or spirit of a deceased person, existed after its departure from the body, but attributed every untoward occurrence to its influence, slaughtering a beast to propitiate its favor on every occasion of severe sickness, &c. As is customary among all these nations, a similar offering is made by the ruling chief to the spirit of his immediate ancestor preparatory to any warlike or hunting expedition, and it is to the humor of this capricious spirit that every degree of failure or success is ascribed. They listened with much attention while I informed them what the Scripture said respecting the power, the wisdom, and the love of God, the immortality of the soul, the resurrection of the body, and the day of final judg ment; but an audible laugh instantly proceeded from all who were present, on my telling them that God had declared in his Word that man's heart was full of sin. This I have always found the most difficult subject to explain, even to those who have had frequent opportunities of instruction; I was not, therefore, greatly surprised at this slight interruption, which was merely an expression of astonishment.

Having already made acquaintance with Foortu at Berea, I spent some little time in his hut, in order to obtain what information he possessed respecting the country we were about to traverse. Unfortunately, their hunting expeditions had been chiefly confined to the intermediate country between this and the sea, ranging from the Umgăni to the Umzimvoobo; they said they had in some instances been nearly to the Quathlamba, but know of no passes through those mountains, nor had they even heard of inhabitants in any of the intervening districts. These people originally lived high up on the right bank of the Tugala, whence they were driven, about fifteen years since, by the devastating wars of Charka. The name of this village is Doomazoolu, or Thundering Heavens, and, with the other nine, contains from 300 to 400 men; and as each on an average has three wives, the whole population may be estimated at about 3000. The name of Charka, according to Foortu's account, was not even known to them until the approach of his army was announced, and they were eventually obliged to abandon their country, when, after wandering for some time, they settled on the Umzimvoobo; but even there they found no respite, the Amakōash under Maddegan falling upon them and killing their cheif Nombeu (father to Foortu,) who fell by the hand of Tpai. This occurred about five years ago, and obliged them to seek their present asylum, which, after enduring many hardships, several of their people dying from actual starvation, they effected. They describe themselves as having been formerly a powerful nation, the only remains of which at present consist of twenty-five villages, ten here, ten more on this side of the Umgăni, and five on the other, all under the control of Foortu, and may probably amount to between 7,000 and 8000 souls. The refugees so frequently to be met with scattered among all the tribes from the colonial frontier to the Umzimvoobo, and especially at the missionary stations in those districts, and who are known under the general name of "Fingu" (literally wanderer,) are the remnants of the various nations formerly inhabiting this extensive tract of country, the greater part of whom have been destroyed either by famine or the assegai. On the bank of the Umcamas, not quite a day's journey from hence, towards the mouth is a remarkable rocky defile, which has long been celebrated as the Thermopyle of this part of Africa, having been as courageously defended by a chief called Namabunga, and who, with a handful of men, successfully opposed the whole force that Charka could bring against them. The gallant Namabunga has since fallen in an affray with the Inthlangwain, and only nine of the original party now remain, who, with their wives and children, still retain their rocky fastness, the proud and Tuesday, 29th.-This morning, I sat till I was melancholy wreck of a brave and unconquered tired in front of my wagon, dispensing beads in race. Were it not for the important objects of exchange for various articles, which were brought

cloth for an ingoobo, he paid me what doubtless Having presented Foortu with a piece of broadhe considered as a high compliment, by styling me, in his return of thanks, the "Black Chief."

These people are not only industrious, but particularly friendly to Europeans, and in every respect offer a most encouraging field for missionary labor; may it please the Lord of the harvest to incline the hearts of some among his devoted servants to visit this secluded valley, and willingly submit to spend and be spent in directing these wild mountaineers to the Lamb of God, the Saviour of sinners.

for purchase, such as ezinqua, amas, ground beans,* and Kafir-corn. The crowd, though noisy, were respectful; each in turns delivering the contents of the calabash or basket, and as quietly awaiting the payment in return. In the very height of the barter, a bush-buck was espied on an opposite hill, which instantly induced a strong party of men, accompanied by their dogs, to hurry off in pursuit. Assegais were hastily snatched up, and away they went, dispersing themselves in all directions. It was amusing to observe the rapidity with which, in a few minutes, they had crossed the river and were clambering, among rocks and bushes, the slopes of the mountain beyond;-the women around the wagon, forgetting for a while their beads and dungaree, and eagerly employed in tracing the buck with their hands and eyes until concealed from their view, seemed quite to enjoy the sport. Three bucks were killed and brought in by the hunting-party in the course of the afternoon. Last night, while conversing with Foortu and some of his principal people, they gave an amusing account of an idea, which, until they had seen white men, they had previously entertained respecting them. It was reported that these strange beings had, on some occasion or other, fallen from the sky, but not with their full complement of limbs, but half the usual number of legs, arms, and eyes being sufficient for their use; -moreover, they had the peculiar faculty of blowing leaden balls with the breath of their mouths from the muzzles of their guns! Surprising facts these, which they now acknowledge to have been a base imposition. I was happy to find that they give as little credence to the stories respecting Ŏakoolukoolu, observing that as it appears their forefathers had no direct communication with him, they have no reliance upon the statements which have been handed down to them, and that they are desirous to be informed on the subject. In their language, habits, buildings, and appearance, they are exactly similar to the Zoolus, with one important exception-the heads of the women are not shorn, but usually dressed after the Amaponda fashion. The men are fond of wearing strings of white beads round the head, passing just below the eyes and resting on the bridge of the nose, which at a distance give them a very wild appearance. I have also remarked several of the Zoolus similarly decorated. Every thing being arranged, we set out, though late this afternoon, and almost immediately began to ascend a steeper mountain than any I have yet climbed with a wagon.Notwithstanding fourteen oxen were yoked to each, the united strength of both spans was only sufficient to convey mine (the least encumbered) to the top; all our efforts to raise the other above midway were ineffectual. The night had closed in; thunder was pealing among the mountains; and, although there was not a spot near the lower wagon sufficiently level to pitch the tent for the people, they were obliged to remain there until the morning, the wagon resting upon the slope with both wheels locked; and, to an observer from below, to all appearance suspended in the air.

Wednesday, 30th.-Previously to lightening the stranded wagon, which I had directed, one more effort was made; and to my no small surprise I soon perceived, by the loud cracking of the whip, that they were once more under weigh, and shortly afterwards my lumbering consort made her appearance alongside. From this elevation, where we remained for some time to rest the harassed oxen, the prospect is striking;-mountains in all directions, with the Umcamas in graceful windings, forcing its way through their rocky ravines, until lost among the rugged acclivities of Namabûnga. We are now fairly entered upon the mountains, and although, by the circuitous route it has been necessary to take, we have travelled about eighty-five miles, the actual distance in a direct line from Port Natal cannot, I should think, be more than fifty on a true course nearly due west.

Having obtained two men from Foortu, as guides to a ford high up on the Umzimcoolu, we continued our journey about ten o'clock, still ascending. A less tedious and difficult road, I doubt not, will eventually be found; but it was not until we had surmounted the steepest part that a more accessible route seemed apparent on the left. As it will be convenient for the sake of reference to supply names to a few points during the present journey, I have ventured to call this "Mount Clamber," an appellation which I should apprehend few who have reached the top will be inclined to dispute as unappropriate. Thus far we have been pursuing a partially beaten track, dignified in Port Natal phraseology by the name of a road; but here we have only the faint traces of some Dutch wagons, which about twelve months ago crossed these mountains on their return to the Colony from Port Natal, and these only occasionally to be discovered by a practised eye.

Having now passed what may be termed the only "oasis" by the way, the solitary wilderness is again before us; but as the day proved rainy, we made but little progress, and out-spanned again at one.

Saturday, October 3rd.-Until this morning we have been weather-bound, detained by the rain; and I have been as it were in solitary confine. ment, scarcely able to leave my wagon for an instant during the whole time, the rain falling in torrents with little interruption, and accompanied with much thunder and lightning. Last night was so tempestuous, that the tent was blown over and could not again be pitched, and I was in hourly expectation that the tilt of my wagon, which was leaking down upon my bed, would have shared the same fate. Independent of the discomfort of travelling in rainy weather, it is highly imprudent when on a long journey, as the necks of the oxen soon became sore, and they are thereby rendered unfit for use for several days. The two guides, who had wisely returned to their village at the commencement of the rain, rejoined us some time after we had started this morning, and reported that the Umcămas suddenly had risen and was now overflowing its banks. Proceeded in a westerly direction over a continuA native, I believe, of De la Goa Bay; the plantation of rounded open downs without trees. is low, and the beans are produced at the root; they From this high level we obtained the first view of the Quathlamba mountains, extending appaare very nutritious.

rently in one continued range from N.E. to S. W., presenting a very broken and rugged outline, with much snow still remaining on their summits. While endeavoring to cross a small mountain rill, the baggage-wagon sunk to the axles in the mud; twice the tractow* was broken in the endeavour to urge it forward, and it was not until it had been actually dug out with great difficulty, that it was at length extricated. Here we spanned out during the middle of the day, now delightfully cool since the late storm. This morning saw an eland, and several bucks and partridges. In the afternoon, we fell in with a large herd of "hartebeests," but could not approach them near enough for a shot; they are nearly as large as the eland, but with a longer neck, which they carry more erect. In shape they are more like the fallow-deer, with large palmated antlers. Observing by my glass, what I conceived to be an opening in the snowy range, bearing about W. by N., I resolved, if possible, to make that point, in the hope of finding a practicable pass for the wagons. As the upper ford on the Umzimcoolu would oblige us to keep too much to the S.W., I gave up the intention of following the track of the Dutch wagons thus far, and resolved to make the best of my way across the ridges in the direction proposed. The frequent necessity of walking in front to inspect the country before the wagons came up, although very fatiguing, created a great deal of interest, but it prevented me from finding a suitable spot for our Sunday's halt until long after the sun had gone down. We spanned out on a steep ridge, overlooking a rugged valley, in which were two streams, called by the guides the Inkonzo and Ungangwani; both, as they state, branches of the Umzimcoolu, and uniting with that river at no great distance from our present station. The latter, which is the most distant, is the larger stream.

Distance travelled about twenty-six miles. General course, west.

Sunday, 4th.

Join then, my soul, in that amen,
Which claims the promise as thine own,
Plead it in prayer,-and plead again-
Rest not until its power be known.

When Christ departs, what joy remains?
All then is darkness and despair!
Vexation marks our toils and pains
'Tis only light when He is there!

Oh, let me then with Him abide
The rock on which my all I build;
No other friend I need beside,

In Christ my wants are all fulfilled.

And death-oh bliss! shall only rend The veil that now conceals his face; And I shall then behold my Friend

For ever nigh-redeemed by grace!

Morning. - English service in the tent;Afternoon.-Kafir ditto in the open air.

Tuesday, 6th.-On account of yesterday's rain, we were unable to proceed until this morning. The man who went for the cattle on Sunday evening saw a lioness with four whelps, lying down at no great distance from them, evidently watching an opportunity to seize upon a strag gler. When he appeared, they rose and made slowly off, occasionally stopping and looking round, while he was occupied in driving the herd towards the wagons unaccustomed to such companions, my horse had wisely made off, and was not found again until after we had set out. The Doomazoolu guides, confessing that they had no further knowledge of the country, were this morning dismissed, and by them I took the opportunity of sending back the cow and calf, to be delivered into the charge of Foortu, and forwarded to Port Natal, when sufficiently recovered. I was not altogether sorry at this necessity (the milk having failed for some days,) deeming it generally best on expeditions of this kind, that all should fare alike, and having from the first some little compunctions on the decided selfishness of this pri

"Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of vate supply. Soon after leaving the heights, the world. Amen."-(Matthew xxviii. 20.)

What rich mines of endless treasure Does the word of God contain ! Free and boundless without measure, Every promise sure and plain.

One there is above the rest, Sweeter than the sweetest there; Of that one alone possessed,

All their fulness we shall share!

Hear thy gracious Saviour speak,

"Lo, I am with you to the end!" Though you are helpless, poor, and weak, On me you always may depend.

What light and life these words contain!
All that sinners e'er can need;

A balm for every grief and pain,
A rich inheritance indeed!

where we had spent the last two days, the baggage-wagon again stuck in crossing a brook; the late heavy rains having softened the ground so much, that the four wheels were almost engulfed. The attempt to drag it back, by applying the fourteen-ox power to the rear, was ineffectual, as the fore axle rested on the bank. The handle of the spade was broken in the endeavor to pare this down; and after all, it was found necessary to unload the wagon, and then, by digging a pas. sage in front, to drag it through in the usual manner. Spanned out by one. Observed several yellow-wood and other timber trees on the mountain slopes and ravines, but as yet we had been chiefly wending along high ridges through an open country. In many places wild sage, mint, rue, and parsley, are abundant: patches and single plants of the common English fern, here called como-como, are found in every part of this country, and are in great request in the neighborhood of inhabited places, the root having been

Hide rope, passing between the oxen from the found to be a successful remedy against those inpole, and to which the yokes are attached.

ternal derangements to which, from the necessity

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