of eating meat without salt, and a long continuance of milk diet, the natives are peculiarly liable. The broken nature of the country, and the continuation of a rocky ridge, impassable for wagons, obliged us to make a great circuit to the northward, so that at our evening bivouac but little progress had been made in the desired direction. Distance travelled about nineteen milesgeneral course, N. N. W. Perhaps I may here be permitted to introduce the divertisement of a rainy day. WAGON TRAVELLING IN SOUTH Ye locomotive sons of travel, Whose pastime is to scour the land, Listen awhile while I unravel A tale of distant Africand. And dream no more of chariots stuffed, In our antipodes of ease, If comfort you would still combine Your progress you must here confine; No turnpikes here, and scarce a road- While every rock its metal proves, Resigned and patient you must be, For bumps and tossings you will meet; Sometimes you'll think yourself at sea, And oft be jerked from off your seat; And when you come to ford a river, 'The whole will creak, and gape, and quiver For headlong you will seem to go, Like magnets dipping near the pole, And when the nether bank you mount, To check your speed-for strange to say, Across the path you 're journeying on; And dust and stones alike are cast By sheer momentum, the defile; And oh, what barbarous Dutch I've heard, When they would make their cattle hear; All is not fair that cheers the eye Some treacherous bog engulfs the wheel, And though the pelting storm you feel, And there perhaps for hours you wait, And hail it issuing from the deep; Such, tourists, are the joys we boast, Without the light champaign to cheer; The mountain streamlet murmurs near, about one. Wednesday, 7th.-Passed through a very finc country, skirted on the right by a small stream— open downs, with well-watered flats between, and timber in patches on several of the mountain slopes. Saw a heard of hartebeests, but they all ran off before we were within gun-shot. The tails of these animals are similar to that of a horse, and, when at full speed, flow behind them with fine effect-they do not spring, but, like the eland, go off at a trot or gallop. Spanned out A remarkable mountain has been visible in the Quathlamba range nearly the whole morning, bearing north-west; and from its singularly indented outline, I have been induced to name it the Giant's Cup. This afternoon, having for some time been traversing high open downs, in a direction nearly due west, we were suddenly stopped secluded valleys, through which a river was windby abrupt precipices, overlooking some beautifully ing, which I take to be the Unganguāni. Obliged to turn considerably to the northward, and soon after sunset stopped on the bank of the same river, at a point where it sweeps the steep base of a rocky hill, which opposes itself to its course in a Hippopotamus (so called by the Dutch and colo-horse-shoe form. Although on the open grounds 'Tis best to pause for change of air, Suspended on a steep ascent, Lest haply the whole team be spent. Crack goes the whip-a passage breaks And cranes shriek loudly as you pass, nists. not a twig was to be seen, the banks of this stream furnished us with abundance of firewood. Distance travelled about twenty-six miles-general course, W. N. W. Thursday, 8th.-Having pared down the bank on each side of the river for the wagons to pass, we crossed at a point opposite to our bivouac, which I have named Wyngart's Ford*. Continued our journey still over open grass downs, in nearly a due westerly direction, the ridges gradually declining in height until we reached another rather larger river, which I think must be the principal branch of Umzimcoolu. Both this and the Unganguani, pent in by steep acclivities, make very abrupt and serpentine bends at the points where we reached them. A jackal has been seen both yesterday and to-day, as well as some hartebeests. As another remarkable mountain, more to the eastward, has been observed among the Quathlamba, I have named it the "Saddle Back," in order to distinguish it from the Giant's Cup, to which it is very similar. The snow has now almost entirely disappeared from the whole range, as far as the eye can reach. bank. By measuring the wagon and tractow, and allowing for the space between the front oxen and the opposite bank, when in the act of fording in a straight line, I found the width of the river in this part to be twenty-seven yards, and at the former eighty. Afternoon.-Ascended a very steep hill from the river; from the top of which it was observed to make a number of very abrupt windings, through a most impracticable country, intersected with a succession of rocky acclivities. Here the first gneu was seen at a short distance from the wagons. From another steep hill, which we soon after ascended, a succession of open downs extended nearly to the mountains. The day had closed, and it was quite dark before an eligible spot for outspanning could be found-there being neither trees nor shelter until we approached some rocky hills, in a northerly direction, where, in consequence of our improvidence in not bringing some fire-wood in the wagon, we were obliged to go supperless to bed. Travelled about twenty miles general course, N. E. On this, and many other rivers which we have Saturday, 10th.-While walking over the hills passed, wild ducks have been seen; but I have at this morning, previous to starting with the wagons, length adopted the opinion of Waterdoer, the I saw a dark colored, thick-bodied snake, about Grigua chief, who, when I met him in Cape five feet long, with a wide, flat head, and pointed Town, replied, with a hearty laugh to my inquiry, mouth: the head was covered with yellow spots. whether he was able to shoot a bird flying, that he It is, I believe, of the species called by the Dutch did not waste powder upon birds. The ducks are the "wrinkle snake." On my return we protherefore allowed to enjoy themselves unmolested ceeded through a fine valley, leading directly to which our scanty supply of balls (all the hunters' the foot of the Giant's Cup; from whence on our lead having been expended before we left Port right a rocky stream was issuing, which is probaNatal) obliges us to husband it for nobler game. bly the Umcamas. Having wound for some disThis forbearance has not been without its re- tance through this valley, skirted on each side by ward, as, during the period of spanning out to-day, mountains, our further progress was suddenly an eland was shot on the opposite side of the river. stopped on one side by immmense fragments of Here it again became necessary to cut the bank rock fallen from the mountain, which rose abruptly on both sides, by which passage we soon after on the left, while the river itself occupied the only crossed-naming the spot "King's Ford."+ level spot on the right. Distance travelled about Afternoon.-Scarcely had we quitted the river, five miles-general course, N. N. W. Having than we were obliged to turn to the southward, already crossed the stream with my horse by the and descend a very steep and rocky ridge, which time the wagons came up, I gave directions to occupied so much time, from the precautions span out, and pushed forward, in the hope of findwhich were necessary to prevent the wagon from ing some practicable pass on the other side, or at overturning, that, in order to recruit the oxen, we least of observing the country beyond the mounspanned out as soon as we reached a convenient tains, from one of their elevated ridges. With spot in the valley below. An even grass ridge, this object in view I led my horse over the most forming a complete amphitheatre, sheltered our difficult places; many parts being exceedingly bivouac on three sides, while a small brook of clear steep and rocky; and continued ascending from water meandered through the whole area. It ridge to ridge until overtaken by a thunder storm. was a most sheltered spot, but not a twig was A thick mist rising soon after nearly concealed growing near, and the people had to go in quest my path; but at this time a heavy shower of hail of fire-wood to a considerable distance. Distance was falling, and I gladly endured a wetting, with travelled fifteen miles-general course, west. the full expectation that it would disperse the mist. Friday, 9th.-The mountains, closing in to the westward, obliged me to shape a more northerly course, in which direction the country was more open ;and after traversing a continuation of downs, we were again conducted to the banks of, what I take to be, the Umzimcoolu, which we forded with out difficulty, though the bed was very rocky, at a spot I have called Ogle's Fordt. A heavy thunder storm, with rain, obliged us to stop on the opposite From Jan Wyngart, driver of the baggagewagon. +From Richard King, driver of my wagon. From Mr. Ogle, who accompanied the party. In this, however I was disappointed; and after anxiously awaiting a break for a considerable time, I unsaddled my horse, and seating myself upon a rock, prepared for a nightly bivouac in this uncomfortable situation. Thus exposed, without the remotest hope of assistance from my party, now several miles distant, I had recourse to that sure refuge-a throne of grace; and though the infidel may scoff, I will declare it for the encou ragement of others, and the glory of my God, that he vouchsafed to hear my cry, and delivered me. Through an opening in the mist, I was soon after enabled to perceive the route which it would be necessary for me to take, in order to retrace my steps; and on which I thankfully proceeded, although it became shortly after as thick as ever; but before I had gone far, it again entirely cleared up; and I was thus enabled, after a tedions walk, and not until it was quite dark, to rejoin the wagons. Two men had been sent out in quest of me, but I did not fall in with them until I had reached the foot of the mountain. In the course of my scramble I picked up, on some of the highest points, several specimens of agate, which were lying about on the surface in great quantities. They occur generally in small irregular pieces, about the size of a nutmeg, and appear to be very transparent. From this circumstance, I have given the valley the name of Agate Vale. Sunday, 11th. "Be careful for nothing; but in every thing, by prayer and supplication, with thanksgiving, let your requests be made known unto God."-(Philipp. iv. 6.) Hence, ye vain corroding cares, Never more my heart oppress; A throne of grace is there revealed, Where Jesus sits to answer prayer; "Tis but to come and to be healed, And leave our anxious burdens there. And oli! how full the promise runs- Nought that is needful I restrain, My promise you may always plead. But let not prayer alone ascend; Shall we the cup of blessing drink, And thankless our petitions end? No more upon our mercies think! Acceptance we could never gain ; A fiery sword would bar the way, Had not the blood of Jesus slain Procured access whereby we pray. And never can we fully know, Until we reach the realms of love, The debt of gratitude we owe To such an Advocate above. Well then with prayer may praise unite— So shall that perfect peace be ours, Were those that we have spent in prayer. Morning-English service in the tent ;-Afternoon.-Kafir ditto in the open air. Monday, 12th.-Went out in two parties to explore a road. This time I was attended by two people, a Hottentot, and a Zoolu. My horse having had such a severe lesson in the antelope step on Saturday, I thought it but fair that it should not be repeated to-day; and, indeed, as it turned out, he would only have proved an incumbrance. As we ascended, the effect of the new and the old grass divided by the river, which had obstructed the burning, was singular, and had all the appearance of the distinguishing colors of two contiguous countries on a map. Never do I remember to have a more difficult scramble; in many places it was necessary only to regard the actual rocks over which I was clambering: the precipices on each side were too fearful to be contemplated for a moment. After all this toil I was country beyond: the ridge upon which I was again disappointed in obtaining a glimpse of the standing suddenly terminated at my feet, in a perpendicular chasm, which, until I reached the brink, had appeared to be connected with an opposite pinnacle, adjoining the crest of the Giant's Cup. To return by the way I had come I considered as impossible; and it was this conviction which in part had induced me to proceed thus far: there appeared, however, no alternative. The descent was commenced by letting myself down one or two of the most difficult places; but the worst was yet to come. Just at this critical point, one of the men most providentially discovered a less perilous route, by which we were enabled to reach the valley in safety. Bare and sterile rocks occupy the highest elevations of these mountains; but the middle and lower regions are scantily clothed in detached patches with trees, chiefly the protea grandiflora, which grows from five to twelve or fourteen feet in height. Many of the heaths are very beautiful; but did not strike me as differing from those which I have met with in the Cape Colony. The most common bear a white daisy-like flower. Bamboo from ten to twelve feet high are found near the banks of the river. The most remarkable is a tree which is evidently a connecting link between the palms and the ferns: the nearest approach that I have seen is the Zamia or Kafir-bread tree; but this is evidently a variety, the leaves of each branch being precisely those of the fern, while those of the Kafir-bread tree partake of the palm. The trunks of those in question, which are only found on the lower slopes and valleys, are similar to the palmyra-but seldom exceed six or seven feet in height; and, when blackened by the burning of the grass may easily be taken for a man at a distance. Though disappointed in my chief object, I was not a little gratified by the peculiar grandeur of the mountain scenery, which exhibited in great variety many of the sublimest characteristics of Alpine regions,the rocks, in many situations, being rent and scattered about in shapeless fragments and in others standing erect, like the ruins of ancient castles. Their general composition, as far as I could ascertain, was compact and soft limestone; the former abounding with minute particles of quartz. While we were on the summit a column of smoke was observed to rise from a distant point of the same range, towards the S. W., probably some grass still ignited, as it is now evident that these exten sive burnings must have swept over the whole country from the inhabited districts near the coast. We did not reach the bivouac until it was dark; and as no provisions could be taken, after nine hours of nearly constant walking and scrambling, I felt quite ready for a mess of our gipsy fare. The other party had already returned, but without success. ed the colony in the neighborhood of the Stormberg. The vicissitudes of climate are here very great: yesterday the heat was almost tropical: to-day the wind from the S. W. is high, and we are all suffering from the cold: the natives nearly benumbed. About nine this morning we broke up our bi vouac, and taking our final leave of Agate Vale with is romantic rocks and precipices, proceeded. as soon as we had turned the mountains which margin this sequestered valley, in a S. W. direction by compass. Before noon we reached a very rocky stream, in the attempt to ford which the bag gage-wagon was thrown over. Happily nothing material was broken; and the provisions escaped with but a trifling wetting, though most of the other things were thoroughly soaked. As scon as it was entirely lightened, the sides were lashed down to the bed; and, with the united strength of ourselves and the oxen, it was again placed upon its wheels and drawn up the bank. The other wagon crossed by a better ford, soon after discovered at a short distance above; and here of course it became necessary to remain a sufficient time to repair damages, and dry the bedding, &c. This morning, while riding in front of the wagons, I picked up the handle of a native hoe, which ap although in itself a trifling circumstance, it could not be viewed without interest in this solitary wilderness: and I regard it either as an indication of our approach to the habitable abodes of man, or as a memento of a race now extinct, or driven by the invader far from the land of their nativity. Afternoon. We had not proceeded more than four miles when we were obliged to cross another river, which I consider to be still the Umzimcoolu; that which we forded this morning being a smaller stream, and appearing to fall into it at no great distance below. To this I have given the name of Cyrus Ford.* Spanned out soon after sunset. Distance travelled about fifeen miles-general course, S. W. Road good over open downs with Tuesday, 13th.-As no practicable road has been discovered by either party, and there is every probability of there being as broken a country for some distance on the other side of these mountains as (contrary to every previous account) we have proved to be the case on this, I have decided, after well considering our present position, as well as our future prospects as to provisions, to send back one wagon, with two spans of oxen, to Port Natal; and to proceed with the remainder of the oxen, packed with the provisions, &c., on foot. The baggage wagon I purpose leaving here. This, under existing circumstances, appears to be the quickest, and indeed the surest way of reaching the colony. Our present distance, west of the meridian of Port Natal, I consider to be about one hundred geographical miles, the true course made good W by N half N.; and that by shaping a S. W.compass course, we shall reach Stockenstrom's river, and enter the colonial boundary by the dis-peared to have been long exposed to the weather: trict of New Hantam, which is the nearest point. Friday, 16th.-The rain, which continued nearly the whole of Wednesday, prevented us from making the necessary preparation for packing the oxen, &c. The cold was quite piercing, with a sharp frost during the night. Yesterday, after much previous practice with stuffed bags and a great deal of trouble, the oxen were at length packed, their noses having been bored for the purpose; and in the afternoon we commenced our new mode of travelling. To an indifferent spectator our appearance at this time would have been somewhat ludicrous: but few out of the whole number of oxen were decidedly quiet under their burdens, while by far the greater part were rebellious; and in consequence spanned in two-out trees. and-two, with the tractow between, and led in the usual manner, with the hope of keeping them thus under sufficient control. Between the two front pair the camp kettle was suspended from the yoke; and to the horns and yokes of the rest many of the lighter articles-such as mats, tin mugs, &c. were attached. We had not, however, proceeded far when some of the latter floundered in crossing a rivulet, and one regularly packed, from which better things were expected, with a violent effort dislodged his burden; and, in the struggle to disengage himself from it altogether, rent the greater part into shreds with his horns and feet. My driver, Richard King, was still limping from a kick he had received in the course of this morning's training; and at once perceiving, from the difficulties attending this first essay, that we were likely to have much trouble by the way, and that in all probability more than half the provisions would be damaged, I was induced to give up the attempt, and returned, with the intention of taking on both wagons, and endeavoring to cross the mountains at another point; and, should this still be found impracticable, to follow their course, keeping as near them as possible, until we reach Saturday, 17th.-I do not recollect ever to have suffered so much from cold as during the past night. Some water which remained in the bucket was frozen a quarter of an inch thick. A South African wagon is but a poor defence against wind, every part being moveable and well adapted for admitting currents of fresh air in all directions; and this being my only dwelling for the time being, no fire that could have been kindled would have availed. As the last stick was consumed in cooking our supper last night, we moved off this morning fasting. The weather was again warm, and the sun powerful; but, after travelling about ten miles, we found ourselves not more than two or three from our last night's bivouac-a succession of steep and rocky precipices frequently impeding our progress, and being the usual termination of the most even and promising-looking downs. In the course of these disappointing circuits, I was, at one time, quite startled at the appearance of a rugged mountain which I have named the Giant's Castle, as seen over an intervening hill. Its resemblance to Edinburgh Castle, from one or two From my interpreter, Gorge Cyrus. points, was so striking that, for the moment, I could almost fancy myself transported to Prince's Street -an illusion which, as it passed my mind, made me more than ever sigh for the termination of the trackless wilderness, and the cheering sight of the abodes of man. Crossed with some difficulty a small rivulet, and spanned out on the opposite side. Afternon.-Crossed a stream which appeared to unite itself with the river I have taken to be the Umzimcoolu, further down. On gaining the opposite bank, our curiosity was greatly excited by the appearances of human foot-prints in the sand. From these marks, it was evident that two persons, accompanied by a dog, had very recently forded the stream in a contrary direction to that we were taking. The general conclusion was, that they were bushmen, who had either traversed the mountains in quest of game, or were the inhabitants of some neighboring district on this side of the Quathlamba range. In the course of this day's journey we fell in with several hartebeests and elands, as also a herd of gneu, eleven in number. The latter are known in the colony by the name of wilderbeest (wild beast ;) a most indefinite appellation, which has been given to them by the Dutch. About sunset spanned out under some hills in the neighborhood of both wood and water. As several lateral ridges are here observed to branch off to the S. E., like buttresses from the main range, the prospect of finding a practicable pass through the mountains in this direction is more cheering. Travelled twenty-one miles-general course, S. W. Sunday. 18th. And Jesus oft himself becomes Grace makes the howling desert bright— An Eden bloom where all was drear; It soothes in sorrow's darkest night, And chases every anxious fear. For ever then that grace impart, I cannot want if Thou art night! 87 Morning-English service in the tent; Afternoon-Kafir ditto in the open air. gradually ascended since yesterday afternoon, and Monday, 19th.-The level of the country has we were to-day in great expectation that we had at length gained the wished-for pass. Appearances were certainly favorable-we were enabled, with the wagons, to ascend almost to the height of some of the rocky eminences, which I was inclined to consider as a part of the main range, and, finding a deep valley before us, I left the party to span out, and climbing over a long and craggy ridge to the right, reached some table land. The result of this two hours' scramble was still disappointment. It proved to be only a collateral ridge, between which and the real Quathlamba a series of steep and rocky chasms precluded the possibility of approach. On these heights several plants of indigo were "Can God furnish a table in the wilderness ?"-borhood of Port Natal, where two or three species growing, similar to those so abundant in the neigh(Psalm Jxxviii. 19. See also Isaiah xlv. 17. 18.) How sweet when kindred hearts unite, To each that hallowed hour conveys! How sure the promise-precious word!- And there my presence shall be sweet!" But are there, then, no streams that flow Is there no ear to heed their wo Ah, yes! omnipotent to save, The Lord our Refuge still is near, Alike to solace on the wave, Or in the wilderness to cheer! How oft a table there he spreads, Refreshing showers of heavenly dews. Though oft we seem, like Ishmael, left Of every outward means bereft, E'en there the living streams are nigh. are found. Afternoon.-There being no choice, we crossed the neck, and by a very steep descent entered a narrow valley between high mountains, from which, after crossing the stream that wound through it, we had some difficulty in extricating ourselves, the entrance being so narrow, and the night closing in upon us before we had emerged from the defile. Travelled twenty miles-general course S. W. Tuesday, 20th.-Completed the descent which we had been unable to do last night, having been obliged to span out on sloping ground; and, on reaching the flat below, twice crossed the stream which was winding through it, and soon after a branch of the same. Near this spot some burnt, sticks were observed, so methodically arranged near the skull of an eland, that there seemed little doubt that a fire had here been kindled by some wandering bushman or other native in order to dress the meat of the animal that had been killed. As the ridges continued to run off to the south-east, to avoid a considerable circuit we crossed the only practicable one; but it was a severe labor for the poor oxen, requiring both spans to each wagon on ascending, and no less than three wheels to be locked as we descended on the other side, where it was necessary to apply reins to the sides, in order to keep them from falling over. On gaining the first even ground we spanned out. From our present position, and the tendency of all the streams we are now crossing, I consider that they |