given up to me, on which my bed was laid, and I soon fell asleep, with seven or eight men, women, and children lying close beside me. I need hardly say that the next morning found me up at an early hour, and ready for my day's march, which proved a very interesting one. In about three hours after starting I was overtaken by an American gentleman, who was likewise bound for Damascus, and we travelled together for the remainder of the day. We soon entered upon a narrow pass between two high ranges of mountains, and I think no part of my travels has impressed me so much as the scene which now presented itself. Our track was along the bed of a torrent, but it was nearly dry at the time we passed, as it was only by removing the stones that we discovered any water. We were continually interrupted by huge masses of rock, which had been rent by the lightning or shaken by some earthquake, and had fallen; a proof of the power of God, at whose command the lightnings come forth and shine from one end of the heaven to the other, and at whose voice the mountains tremble and are afraid. On either side of us were rocks towering one above another, with scarcely a bush to be seen. In fact, the side which faced the south was perfectly bare; and there were only a few low, stunted shrubs on our right. Birds of prey were sweeping around the craggy tops; the noble eagle towering far above the rest, each swoop rising further and further out of sight, till the eye was wearied in following his flight. It was a solemn scene. There was a stillness and a solitude about it which I can never forget. Shall I say that the idea forced itself on my mind that one of the vials of God's wrath had been poured out over it. There was a something which seemed to say that it had not always been as we saw it; and these remarks apply equally to the inhabitants. There was among much primitive rudeness a certain refinement of manners, which distinguishes the Arab from the inhabitant of the new world.

*

*

*

Chateaubriand makes some good remarks on this subject in his "Itineraire de Paris à Jerusalem." Speaking of the Arabs he says: "Yon perceive that they are born in that east, from which have sprung all the arts, sciences, and forms of religion. The Canadian, hidden in a corner of the extreme west, has his dwelling in valleys, surrounded by eternal forests and watered by splendid rivers: the Arab, if I may so say, cast upon the high road of the world, wanders, under a burning sky, over a soil destitute both of rivers and of trees. Among the descendants of Ishmael there is a certain freedom, but it has its limits and its restrictions. With the native of the forest there is independence, but it is haughty and cruel. The American relies upon his own swiftness in the chase; the Arab has tamed the horse, and makes him his faithful servant and companion. In a word, every thing among the Americans bespeak the savage not yet arrived at the state of civilization: with the Arab every thing indicates a civilized people fallen back into the savage state."

But as I dare say you are anxious to know some thing about Damascus, and think me a long time in reaching it, I will only say that I took up my quarters in a new house, and therefore my night's rest was less disturbed. Next morning five hours' quick travelling brought me to Damascus. The first view of the city is very pleasing, owing to the large gardens which surround it on all sides. It lies at the eastern foot of some out-liers from the Anti-Lebanon range, with a vast plain stretching to the east and south-east. We passed through lanes which reminded us of England; there being walls built up to some height, over which were peach, apricot, pomegranate, citron, and many other kinds of fruit trees, some few of them still in bloom; while streams of water were gushing through them, clear and in great abundance. Having

passed through these gardens, and some low, dirty suburbs, we entered the city itself; and, after riding through some narrow streets we found our way to an inn, lately set up by a Greek Christian.

This house was a fair specimen of the Damascus style. The exteriors of all the houses are extremely plain, being merely rough mud-walls, with one or two small lattice windows at a considerable height, through which may be sometimes seen the twinkling of a bright eye. A low, narrow door affords an entrance through a dark passage into a court-yard, in the middle of which there is generally a large fountain surrounded by citron trees, jasmines, roses, and creepers. The chief room is the " salle-à-manger," which is often adorned at a considerable expense. The one in the hotel was equal to any that I saw. On entering the room you generally find a small fountain, which both keeps the room cool and is used for washing cups, glasses, &c. In this part of the room the ceiling is higher than at the best end, and not so handsomely ornamented. The upper end of the room, where the tables and divans are placed, is raised about a foot higher than the part where the fountain is; but the ceiling is considerably lower, and is really gorgeously decorated with looking-glass, gilt, and paint, arranged in the most elegant patterns: the sides of the rooms are much plainer. Some of the bedrooms are handsomely ornamented with cedar; but it affords a great harbour for various insects, as I found, one night, to my cost. The bazaars are large and good, better than any we had before seen. The mosques are very numerous: the finest of them was formerly a Greek church. There is also an abundance of coffeehouses, many of them very pleasantly situated on islands, or at least on the border of the running stream; and they are much frequented day and night, when they are lit up by an abundance of small lights.

You are doubtless impatient to hear something of the antiquities of Damascus, but I can tell you but very little; though it is the oldest city now existing, as we find mention made of it in Genesis xv., where Eliezer of Damascus is mentioned as Abraham's steward. Yet, since then, "Damascus has been taken away from being a city, and was a ruinous heap" (Isa. xvii.); and there was left but gleaning grapes, as the shaking of an olive tree, two or three berries in the top of the uppermost bough. Part of the old walls still remain, and a gateway is shown, from a hole at the top of which they tell you St. Paul was let down. But this could hardly be the case, as we are told in the Acts that the Jews watched the gates day and night to kill him. We visited the house of Ananias, who was commissioned by God to restore his sight to Saul. At present it is a small chapel, underground; and I do not think it at all improbable that it is on or close to the very spot, as the piety of the early Christians led them to pay great reverence to all such circumstances. We were also shown several places where St. George is reported to have wrought many marvellous feats. There is also a small village at some little distance in the gardens, called, if I hit the name rightly, Hobal, where there is a Jewish synagogue built on the site of a Greek church, over a cave which is said to have been the hiding place of one of the prophets. Such is all I can collect which dates prior to the time of the Saracens.

In one of my rides near the horse-bazaar I saw a large plane-tree, which, at about the height of a yard from the ground, measured very nearly thirty-eight feet in girth. I visited several of the gardens, but for the most part they are a mere wilderness-nature doing every thing, man scarcely any thing.

One of the rivers which water Damascus is called Barada; but whether this is the Abana or Pharpar I cannot tell you. The inhabitants are particularly strict mussulmans, and until quite lately they would not suffer any Christian to enter the city upon horses

back; but Ibrahim Pacha put a stop to this during his residence as governor, and English travellers and English money will, doubtless, continue the privilege. B. B.

Poetry.

THE CONVERSION OF SAINT PAUL.

FOR THE 25TH OF JANUARY.

(For the Church of England Magazine.)
ACTS xxii. 6-8.

Aн, who may tell the glory of that light,
Lustrous and strangely beautiful, that stole
From highest heaven, to dim the ruthless blight
Of darkening sin, that shadowed Paul's high soul!
Celestial radiance shed a sacred power,

In mystic beauty, o'er each glorious ray;
While a dread voice broke on that solemn hour,
Rending his heart beneath its awful sway-
The voice of Jesu o'er his spirit fell,

Breaking the deadly chain that sin had wove, And waking, from beneath its fatal spell,

His fervid heart to know a Saviour's love,

To glory in his faith, and to proclaim
Through distant lands his dear Redeemer's name.

Llangynwyd Vicarage.

SCRIPTURAL LYRICS.

No. II.

"Songs in the night."-JOB. xxxv. 10.

M. C. L.

SONGS in the night-not when the day is beaming, When youth's wild pulses beat with restless joy, When light and gladness o'er the heart are streaming, Ere sorrows damp the soul or pleasures cloy.

"Tis in the night, the night of pain and sadness,

When earth-born care sits heavy on the breast, When weeping bursts where all of late was gladness, And the tired spirit turns to seek for rest. Songs in the night! The melody is breathing Low, but distinct, across the heaving heart, A spell of silence round the spirit wreathing,

Peace to that spirit, sweetest peace t' impart. Go to the sufferer on the couch of sorrow,

When pain and anguish rend the shattered frame; And he will tell what strength the heart can borrow, While faith exulting hymns the Saviour's name.

Or ask the mourner in the silent dwelling,

Where death hath laid the best beloved low:
There is a peace, while grief the heart is swelling,
Which mirth unsanctified can never know.

And when the last the deepest shades are closing,
When life is ebbing fast and death is near,
O what sweet strains to one on Christ reposing,
Pour o'er the soul to comfort and to cheer!

Silent and deep, e'en as the glorious river
Which maketh glad the dwelling-place on high,
The melody is heard once and for ever-
It mingles with the chorus of the sky!

A. STODART.

Miscellaneous.

RUBRIC. By this word is implied a rule or direction. It is derived from the Latin word "rubrica," which signifies red earth, red ochre, &c.; and it is employed to designate the rules which are laid down in the Book of Common Prayer, to direct the minister and people in their performance of divine worship. These rules were formerly painted in red letters, to distinguish them from the prayers and other parts of the liturgy, which were printed in black letters. EGYPT." And Joseph was the governor of the land, and he it was that sold to all the people of the land" (Gen. xlii. 6). It is a remarkable fact that the present miseries of the Egyptians proceed chiefly from the policy adopted by Joseph, which has been continued to the present day; a fact which strongly marks the retributive justice of the Almighty in visiting upon the Egyptians the same forms of oppression as those so wantonly exercised by them upon the Israelites, and that too by means of the very policy adopted by one of the sons of Israel. In conformity with this plan, the pasha gives land to the peasants, and furnishes them with seed and cattle. In lieu of these he requires a certain portion of the produce as his right; but he has added this oppressive enactment, that he shall buy all the remainder at his own price.... All incitement to industry is thus taken away; and the inhabitants only aim at duplicity and concealment. "There shall be no more a prince of the land of Egypt" (Ezek. xxx. 13). For nearly two thousand years Egypt has never had a prince of its own nation; and such is the baseness of the people, that they were long ruled by a succession of slaves, the mamelukes; and they do not now seem able to contemplate the possibility of governing themselves. They frequently deplore their oppressed and miserable condition, but only wish for a milder master to come and take the kingdom from their present tyrant. This people has been indeed "delivered over into the hand of a cruel lord, and a fierce king rules over them; for all their conquerors have spoiled them; and every change of masters seems to have proved for the worse to this degraded nation. Assyrians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Turks, have in their turn spoiled the Egyptians; but, of all their governors, none has ruled with a more fierce and cruel sway, than their present tyrant, Mehemet Ali: the very petty officers and governors are strangers. The same witness to the fulfilment of the divine prophecy is likewise borne by the rev. Dr. Wilson, another traveller: "The arm of Pharaoh is broken; and it shall not be made whole, nor strengthened to hold the sword.' How truly and how awfully these threatenings have been realized the succeeding history of Egypt abundantly shows.

From "Notes on the Spot." By the rev. R. M. Macbriar.

London: Published for the Proprietors, by EDWARDS and HUGHES, 12, Ave-Maria Lane, St. Paul's; J. BURNS, 17, Portman Street; add to be procured. by order, of all Booksellers in Town and Country.

PRINTED BY

JOSEPH ROGERSON 24, NORFOLK STREET, STRAND, LONDON.

THE CATHEDRAL AND CASTLE OF

BRECHIN.

It is generally believed that Brechin was formerly a chief seat for the celebration of the performance of druidical rites. The grounds on which this supposition is based, however, are not very obvious, and are of little consequence. The Culdees are stated to have had a religious house there. The cathedral is supposed to have been originally founded by David I, A.D. 1150, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity and St. Ninian. It was, though probably never entirely completed, a fine Gothic fabric, 166 feet long and 61 feet broad, supported by two ranges of plain massive pillars.

The situation is extremely picturesque. The church and church-yard occupy an eminence

VOL. XVIII.

to the south-west of the town, which is bounded by a steep ravine, and a stream, which joins the river Esk a little below. On approaching Brechin from whatever quarter, the church, with its three spires rising from among the trees, presents a most beautiful and attractive object.

The cathedral, even while accommodated for presbyterian worship, was a fine building, consisting, until 1806, of a nave, with two aisles and transepts. In that year, however, it would appear a spoliation under the name of an improvement was committed on the venerable fabric., which had been but very little injured by the lapse of time. The north and south transepts were removed, new aisles were built on each side of the nave, and one roof, with a flat ceiling, made to cover the whole; thus totally eclipsing the beautiful windows in the nave, and covering

F