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totality of the threads which lie longitudinally, whether they form the foundation of the same or whether they have been added in order to form patterns or give the stuff more body. The weft shall be considered the totality of the threads which cross the warp of the textile and combine the same conditions of helping to form patterns or to add to the body of the stuff, even though such threads be cut or show a want of continuity. In order to determine for customs treatment of textiles the number of threads and the proportion in which the threads * * * subject to the highest duty are found in the textile, the instrument known as the “ thread counter” shall be employed.

Should there be a doubt as to the ascertainment of the number of threads in a textile, owing to the textile being more closely woven in some parts than in others, the most closely woven part and the most loosely woven part shall be taken, and the average number of threads resulting from the two shall serve as a basis for levying duty.

When the nature of the tissue permits it, the thread shall always be counted on the obverse side of the stuff.

In all woolly or melton-like textiles, and generally in all textiles in which the threads have become indistinct by carding or fulling, the threads shall be counted on the reverse side of the stuff by rasping or burning the hair when necessary.

In exceptional cases, where after these operations the ascertainment of the number of threads remains doubtful, a sufficient part of the textiles shall be unraveled.

Should this likewise be impossible, as, for instance, in Ready - made case of ready-made articles, the textile shall be subject to the highest duty of the group to which it belongs, and should the textile be mixed, it shall be dutiable according to the class in which the most highly taxed material entering into the mixture is comprised.

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CUSTOM TREATMENT OF MIXED TEXTILES.

Mixed textiles.

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RULE 2. ADMIXTURES OF TWO MATERIALS.—Textiles of Two materiall kinds, composed of two materials, shall be dutiable as ais follows:

(a) Cotton textiles containing threads of hemp, jute, linen, ramie, or other vegetable fiber shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group three, class four, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class IV, group three, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of these threads of hemp, jute, linen, ramie, or other vegetable fibers, counted in the warp and weft, does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of threads of hemp, jute, linen, ramie, or other vegetable fiber exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of class five.

(b) Cotton textiles containing threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or wastes of these materials shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group three, Class IV, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class IV, group three, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or their wastes, counted in the warp and weft, does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or their wastes exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VI, as textiles mixed with wool.

(c) Cotton textiles containing threads of silk or floss silk shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group three, Class IV, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class IV, group three, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of silk or floss-silk threads, counted in the warp and weft, does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of threads of silk or floss silk exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VII [Class IV, group three, Rule À].

(d) Textiles of hemp, jute, linen, ramie, or other vegetable fibers, containing threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or their wastes shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group two, Class V, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class V, group two, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of these threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or their wastes counted in the warp and weft does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile

When the number of threads of wool, flock wool, hair, or their wastes exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of group three, Class VI, as textiles mixed with wool. [Class V, group two, Rule A.]

(e) Textiles of hemp, jute, linen, ramie, or other vegetable fibers containing threads of silk or floss silk shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group two, Class V, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class V, group two, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of these threads of silk or floss silk counted in the warp and weft does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of silk or floss-silk threads exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VII. [Class V, group two, Rule A.]

(f) Textiles of wool, flock wool, or hair, containing threads of silk, or floss silk, shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of group three, Class. VI, with the surtaxes established in each case [Class VI, group three, Rule A]: Provided, That the number of silk or floss-silk threads does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of silk or floss-silk threads exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VII. [Class VI, group three, Rule A.]

RULE 3. ADMIXTURES OF MORE THAN TWO MATERIALS.- More than Textiles composed of more than two materials shall be two materials. dutiable as follows:

(a) Textiles containing an admixture of wool and cotton, or of wool and other vegetable fibers and, at the same time, threads of silk or of floss silk, shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VI, as mixed woolen textiles, whatever be the proportion of the threads of vegetable fibers, and shall, in addition, be liable to the surtax leviable on the silk or floss-silk threads: Provided, That the number of these threads counted in the warp and weft does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of silk or floss-silk threads exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VII.

(b) Textiles containing an admixture of cotton and other vegetable fibers, and at the same time threads of silk or floss silk, shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class V and assimilated to textiles of jute, hemp, and so forth, whatever be the proportion of the cotton threads; they shall, in addition, be liable to the surtax leviable on the silk or floss-silk threads: Provided, That the number of these threads, counted in the warp and weft, does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of silk or floss-silk threads exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VII.

(c) Textiles of an admixture of wool, cotton, and other vegetable fibers, containing no silk threads, shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class V, and shall, in addition, be liable to the surtax leviable on woolen threads: Provided, That the number of these threads, counted in the warp and weft, does not exceed one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile.

When the number of woolen threads exceeds one-fifth of the total, the textiles shall be subject to the corresponding duties of Class VI, as woolen textiles.

RULE 4. SILK TEXTILES.-All textiles containing silk Silks. or floss-silk threads the number of which, counted in the warp and weft, exceeds one-fifth of the total number of threads composing the textile, shall be considered as textiles of silk.

EXCEPTIONS.—For knitted stuffs, tulles, laces, blondes, ribbons, and all pile fabrics provided for under paragraphs one hundred and twenty-four and one hundred

goods.

and fifty-one, composed of an admixture, exception to the

preceding rules shall be made in the following cases: Knit, etc., RULE 5. KNITTED AND NETTED STUFFS.—All kinds of

knitted stuffs and tulles, laces, and blondes, when mixed, shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of the class comprising threads of the material most highly taxed, whatever be the proportion of such threads in the textile.

Plushes, velvets, velveteens, and all pile fabrics provided for under paragraphs one hundred and twentyfour and one hundred and fifty-one, when mixed, shall be dutiable according to the corresponding numbers of the class comprising the threads of the material most highly taxed, whatever be the proportion of such threads in the textile.

Knitted stuffs, laces, blondes, tulles, and the pile fabrics mentioned in the preceding paragraph, comprised in Class VII, shall be considered as textiles mixed with silk when they contain threads of cotton or other vegetable fibers, or of wool or of flock wool, whatever be the proportion of such threads in the mixture.

RULE 6. RIBBONS.—Ribbons and galloons mixed with cotton and other vegetable fibers or with vegetable fibers and wool, containing no silk, shall be subject to the corresponding duties of the class comprising the threads most highly taxed.

Ribbons or galloons containing silk, in whatever proportion, shall be dutiable as textiles according to the corresponding numbers of Class VII.

RULE 7. TRIMMINGS.—Trimmings shall be dutiable on the total weight, as if exclusively composed of the apparent or visible textile material.

Trimmings composed on their apparent or visible part of various textile materials shall be subject to the corresponding duties of the class comprising the material most highly taxed. When the predominating component material consists of metallic threads of any kind, the trimmings shall be dutiable according to Class VII.

Trimmings are distinguished from ribbons and galloons by the latter being real textiles, with warp and weft, while trimmings are plated.

Ribbons.

Trimmings.

SURTAXES.

Surtaxes.

RULE 8. ESTABLISHMENT OF SURTAXES.—The surtaxes applicable, owing to broché, embroidery, metal threads, or making up, shall always be computed on the duties leviable on the textile by taking into account, if necessary, the increase of such duties in case of admixture.

For the collection of the total duty, the surtaxes applicable for either of the above-mentioned reasons shall, when necessary, be added together.

RULE 9. BROCHÉS.—Textiles, brochés or woven like Brochés. brocades, with silk or floss silk, shall be liable to the duties leviable thereon plus the surtaxes established in every case. [Class IV, group three, Rule B, letter (a), and Class V, group two, Rule B, letter (a).]

Brochés or brocaded textiles are all textiles with flowers or other ornaments applied by means of a shuttle in such manner that the threads do not occupy the entire width of the stuff, but only the space comprising the flower or pattern.

RULE 10. EMBROIDERY.—Textiles embroidered by hand Embroidery. or machine after weaving or with application of trimmings shall be liable to the duties leviable thereon plus the surtaxes established in every case. [Class IV, group three, Rule B, letter (b); Class V, group two, Rule B, letter (b).]

Embroidery is distinguished from patterns woven in the textile as the latter are destroyed by unraveling the weft of the textile, while embroidery is independent of the warp and weft and can not be unraveled.

RULE 11. METALLIC THREADS.—Textiles and trimmings Metallic containing metallic threads, in whatever proportion, shall be liable to the duties leviable thereon, plus the surtaxes established in every case. [Class IV, group three, Rule B, letter (c); Class V, group two, Rule B, letter (c).]

Textiles exclusively composed of metallic threads shall be dutiable according to Class VII.

RULE 12. MADE-UP ARTICLES.—Textiles manufactured Made-up artiinto articles of all kinds shall be liable to the duties leviable thereon, plus the surtaxes established in every case. [Class IV, group three, Rule B, letter (d); Class V, group two, Rule B, letter (d).]

Ready-made clothing, wearing apparel of all kinds and of any style, and, generally, all articles made up by the seamstress or tailor, shall, for their total weight, be liable to duties leviable on the principal component textile on their most visible exterior part.

For the aplication of the corresponding surtaxes, clothing and articles, half finished, cut or basted, shall be considered as made-up articles and clothing.

threads.

cles.

RULES APPLICABLE TO GOODS NOT SPECIALLY MENTIONED AND

TO ARTICLES COMPOSED OF SEVERAL MATERIALS.

ically mention

RULE 13. Articles not enumerated in the tariff shall, Classificafor the application of duty, be assimilated to those which cies not specifthey most closely resemble (see rule fifteen), and shall in ed. the first instance be so classified by the collector of the port of entry into which the articles are brought.

When an article presented for appraisal is not mentioned in a number of the tariff or in the repertory, and when doubts arise as to its assimilation to articles specified in the tariff, the interested party or the importer

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