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been enjoying one long celebration. They makes even bricks soft for many hours, let not one occasion escape them. The the victims of John Barleycorn lie till the national consciousness has awakened and sun is well up. It is too true of many patriotism has rekindled its fires all over that on such a day they have “spoken to the eleven provinces. An outburst of the Prince." historical literature and a hurricane of Yet most of the fun of Rembrandt day popular fiction illuminating the past have was innocent enough. I saw the Queen accompanied the fun, frolic and perma- Mother and the Prince Consort in the nent decoration. In both the growing same room, and on great and beautiful maritime and the inland cities one sees public functions, repeatedly, in July. in the naming of the new streets how well 1906; but I enjoyed being also where Holland remembers her great sons and was "the greatest good to the greatest daughters.
number.” When it comes to outdoor celebrations, So, on great Rembrandt's birthday the normal Dutchman is in his element, celebration, July 16, 1906, I went first for the young folks love fun and frolic into the hall of golden inscriptions in the fully as much as is good for them, while Rijks, or National Museum, where so long mynheer and his vrow are but children of the "Night Watch” hung, and where a larger growth.
Saskia is equally remembered with her So, while the festivities at Leyden, city husband. At the hour of 2 P.M. the waiting of Rembrandt's birth, and at Amster- choir burst forth in a seventeenth-century dam, the municipality in which his hon- anthem. The strains of the Wilhelmus ors were won, arranged for the visit of Lied had already announced the coming the Queen Mother and Crown Prince- of royalty. The hall was ablaze with decwhile the beloved and much-prayed-for orations, uniforms, brilliant toilets and Queen waited for the stork and abode at bizarre costumes, for the élite of the nahome-the plain people were not for- tion and the foreign ministers were there. gotten. In the university town the water Admirals, generals, ministers of state, the pageant-flowers by day and lanterns by diplomatic corps and men and women night-turned the old Rhine" and the
whose names in art, literature and the canals into mirrors of glory. In the old achievements of life are known beyond “Burg,” which from prehistoric aeons their dikes graced the grand occasion. has witnessed so much of real war, siege Amid the silver and gold embroidery and and famine, but also continual feasting breast ornaments of those who had won and frolic, the fun on Rembrandt day and favor and fame are noted the young Chinight was fast and furious, for kermiss nese minister. He looked like a flaming had come. There was no silence in the poppy in crimson and black. The Paul land of wooden shoes until 4 A.M. The Kruger type of face was not absent from maid-servant who, for at least three hun- the assembly. Indeed, one could not fordred and sixty days of the year, walks bear comparing (and not to the discredit a chalk line of propriety even to prud- of the living, either), the countenances ery, forsakes her Delft-blue work-dress on the immortal canvases of Van der and ruff-cap and on kermiss night puts Helst and Franz Hals with those in life. on her finery. But look out for her and There were speeches by the Burgomaster, her Jan or Willem, when she and twenty Commisaris (province governor) and the more of him and her-all alike in royster- Prince Consort-by which this muching abandon--swing a line across the slandered man gained new popularity street! Other lines of swinging human- with the Dutch. Then we all went into ity follow. In boisterous song and hig- the new Rembrandt rooms, where the gledy-piggledy advance, with occasional “Night Watch” and the “Cloth Syneddying circles for dancing, the noisy dics" will wait on admirers for another battalions compel the peaceful pedestrian century, and, let us hope, for a millennium to take some other street. Not always, in- of further fame. In the morning of this deed, but with sufficient frequency, the same day I saw his unmarked and unnext morning, if in summer, reminds one known grave in the Wester Kerk was reof a battlefield. Slain, not in war, but membered in marble and gold. driven to sleep in unconsciousness that Making as straight a bee-line as the
human jam would admit to the Rokin, I is a “palace without an entrance." In was in good season on this July 16 to see the noisiest part of Amsterdam, one can most of the optocht, or historical costume scarcely envy the quondam royal sleepers procession. How the Dutch do enter into there. Thoughtfully, at inauguration the spirit of their picturesque ancestors ! time in 1898, the people condoned the The night before, with flambeaux and Pallis with whisperers, putting fingers of searchlight shedding their beams, I be- warning on mute lips. The peasants even held a mighty glitter of steel, yellow took off their wooden clomps and the citleather, orange-colored sashes, plumes,
sashes, plumes, izens their leather shoes, to dance in slashed velvet and banners. These and soundless joy around the monument of the men in them represented the heroes 1830 on the Dam. It is said that, to some of Rembrandt's time, but the fat mud of Vollendam fishermen of saturnine face Amsterdam that churns up richly after and timeless smoking capacity, this worda rain had spoiled the ladies' skirts.
the ladies' skirts. less joy was a glimpse of heaven. Bravely the women artists, as well as the But no silence poulticed the skies on men walked, yes, "loping" it (to use Rembrandt day in Amsterdam. How the New York English) all the way. Bravely welkin rang as the pikemen in hats which, they laid their floral tributes before the if reversed, would have served admirably artist king of shadows who stood in as coal scuttles, marched by. It was with bronze, a silent conqueror. To-day, in sixteen feet of timber and iron that Prince the sunlight, fair virgins feared no drop Maurices's men loved to push and spit from their native skies. They start from the Spaniards. What wonderful hair the street on Ruysdael Quay, behind the fashions were then in vogue! Verily, Rijks Museum, named after Jacob van the wigmakers of 1906 must have quickly Campen, the architect of the City Hall sold out their stock! What amazing of 1648, made for republicans, and hence stripes on the sleeves -as if Sing Sing without a chief portal, all the doors be- or Joliet had broken loose! What longing plain and of the same width and handled meat axes the halberdiers carheight. Now, as the Frenchman noted, it ried ! As for the muskets and every
PIKEM EN IN PRINCE MAURICE'S REPUBLICAN ARMY
sort of “bus,” their bore was terrific There are the three sea heroes — Tromp, in size. No caliber of less than an whom every Britisher patriotically and inch did I see. Some of those which re- absurdly calls Van Tromp; de Ruyter, quired a prong to rest on before firing who won sixty fights, but who was as must have often kicked over the men that modest as he was truculent. Piet Hein, fired them until they may have seemed of Oelfshaven, was there. His name is grasshoppers in their own sight, as well klein, as every Dutch boy knows. In as in that of their enemies. But there were 1628 he captured the Spanish silver fleet civilians also, and at once we turned our
in the West Indies. eyes from colors to sober tints. There "Zyn daad is groot on the mammoth “Hoat'' set on four Hy heeft gewonnen de zilvere vloot." wheels stood John of Barneveldt- with eading all is the figure of the brave, his head on. The two De Tritt brothers tolerant, wise, good, art-loving Prince had emerged from the Hague cannibals Frederich Hendrik, noblest of the sons and stood together as large and as hand- of William. How significant the absence some as in life. What an artistic dress of Maurice, the judicial murderer of Barthe Puritans did invent! As tasteful as neveldt! High in evidence, however, and a plain ring of solid gold was their cos- over all, is the maid of Holland. tume of linen and woolen, white and gray, Yes, there was a Saskia as well as a laundry and elegance, cleanliness and Rembrandt, and woman holds high honor comfort!
to-day, in allegory, even as her "stand, Then there were the poets and men of as the Dutch say, is steadily rising like letters - Vondel, from
from whom Milton the emergent lion of Zeeland, in the land learned much and whose epic our own back of the waves. One “float” that Van Noppen has translated into tuneful draws all eyes is that which bears eight English; Hooft, the Dutch Thucydides, young women in fair garb, flower-crowned whose history Motley knew by heart, and or helmed, each like a medieval Pallas. whose parchment-bound book he held in With sparkling eyes and rosy cheeks, they his picture at the House in the Wood; represent Amsterdam (city of the three Huygens, whom all the world knows as stars) ; Leyden (of Saint Peter's crossed a mathematician.
keys); Delft (where sleeps Grotius, be
ginner of the modern world's interna- assume a pleasant expression," the tional conscience); Haarlem, city of the virgins in the next wagon drawn by two sword and stars of Franz Hals and of the white horses are each one a veritable mighty organ; Gouda, of early printing Flora. Decorated with living blooms is and always good cheese; Dordrecht, of their moving throne, and from their oftecumenical council fame; Enkhuisen, replenished store they scatter flowers and once so mighty, pronounced "dead" by toss wreaths and strew their own path as
THE REMBRANDT WREATH On the horses' backs is the great wreath of Aowers 2 meters in diameter which was laid before Rembrandt's statue Havard, but very much alive yet; Alk- if they were sworn to obey Mrs. Hemans' maar, with its mountains of cheese. glorious poem, “Bring fluwers to strew.'
Yet even above these dainty pieces of The fifth and last wagon is loaded with womanhood, sit other Netherland daugh- booty and spoil from the gardens in order ters. They personify
personify Architecture, that Rembrandt may have more abunSculpture and Painting. At the apex
dant honor; even heaps upon heaps. of this tower of beauty is the living fig- These palms, laurels and greenery, maure of Art in general.
king a crown nearly three yards in diamWhile the allegorical maids (usually) eter, will be borne by strong men and