as the heat may sometimes be, yet canine madness never prevails; and not the slightest fear is ever manifested by the crowding passengers in the streets, though the dogs appear to be of the most ferocious kind. At night, their howling and barking is quite distressing, and effectually banishes sleep from all who have the least tendency to be wakeful. Dogs are the only scavengers in oriental towns. If it were one's disposition to mention annoyances, a long catalogue might soon be formed, of those which prevail in Egypt, and especially in Cairo. its grand capital. The "plague of flies" which we experienced, was no trifling matter; and so great were the numbers of these creatures, that at meal times we required to have persons continually waving flappers, made of the leaves of the palm tree, in order to eat in peace. At night, the plague of musquitoes was terrible, notwithstanding the usual precaution of musquito-curtains. After repeated attacks of these insects, I found my hands severely ulcerated, and so swollen that I could scarcely draw on my gloves. The Arabs ascribed this affection to the water of the Nile, which in Cairo is used for all purposes. They have no other. Many cutaneous disorders are said to be the effect of the same cause. The Nile water is delicious for drinking, when properly filtered. Dr. E. D. Clarke remarks, that however carefully the Nile water may be purified, by rubbing the interior of the water-vessels with bruised almonds, which precipitates the mud, yet then it is never quite clear. I have, however, in my possession, a small bottle of Nile. water, which accompanied me in all my route, and it even now has the appearance of the clearest crystal. Upon analysis, the Nile water has been found to contain the carbonates of magnesia, lime, and iron; the muriate of soda; and a small portion of silex and alumine. To walk through the streets of Cairo, one would imagine that externally it had undergone no change for ages. It has the air of a primitive place, both in regard to its architecture and its inhabitants. The upper stories of the houses project so much, that the occupiers might almost step from one to the 92 GRAND CAIRO RHODA ISLAND. This other. But then, this helps to keep the streets cool, by shut ting out the intense heat of the vertical sun. Though crowded by an incessantly moving population, the streets seldom have the feel of suffocating heat. The windows of the houses have, for the most part, no glass, but consist of wooden latticework, often richly carved and ornamented, projecting somewhat like small oriel windows in Gothic architecture. too, gives a complete idea of coolness and comfort. houses themselves are chiefly Saracenic, built of very solid masonry, in large massive blocks of stone; and often the doors, or main entrances, are much enriched with carved work. The principal houses are quadrangular; and a spacious court, open at the top, affords communication to every part of the habitation.* The One of our first expeditions in Cairo, was to the gardens of Ibrahim Pacha, the son of Mehemet Ali-occupying a considerable part of Rhoda Island, on the bank of which, as asserted by almost undisputed tradition, the child Moses was found, by Pharaoh's daughter. From this spot, a very striking and picturesque view of Cairo is obtained; and all was rendered very animating on account of a festal season, during which, it is customary for the gardens of Rhoda Island to be thrown open to the public. A vast assemblage of people, of all classes, were thronging about-some in parties seated in circles, under the shade of spreading trees, laughing, jesting— smoking; while others were pacing along in slow and stately march, from avenue to avenue, in all the glitter and color of orientalism. The greatest decorum prevailed; and it was pleasant to see that neither leaf nor flower suffered violence at the hands of the numerous visitors. The gardens are very extensive; and are laid out, partly in European and partly in oriental taste; and irrigation is carefully provided for by the digging of small canals or trenches, which are kept well sup * Dr. E. D. Clarke remarks, on the authority of Denon, that "the taste shown in decorating their apartments, is of the kind called Arabesque: this, although early introduced into England from the East, is not Saracenical, but Egyptian. It is a style which the Greeks themselves adopted; and it was received among the Romans in the time of Augustus.” GRAND CAIRO-BATH. 93 plied with water. The trees, of various kinds-some native and others foreign, appeared to thrive remarkably well. The pomegranates were full of their richly tinted blossoms. The roses, among which there was but little variety, were mostly fading away, having already enjoyed their blossoming time. The climate was delightful, and added much to the charm of a scene so novel and picturesque. Among the luxurious comforts of Cairo, the public baths claim pre-eminence. They are resorted to by all classesfrequent ablutions of the person forming part, and a prominent part too, of the external ceremonies of Mahommedanism. Perhaps nothing more refreshing can be conceived of in a warm climate, than the Egyptian or Turkish tepid bath. Some of my readers may be amused by a description of the process attending it. On entering the bath house, you are conducted to a spacious outer room, fitted all round with dewans, raised about two feet from the floor. Seated on one of these, you prepare for the bath; and when about to remove the last articles of dress, one of the bathers approaches yougenerally a strong and powerful Arab-and wraps you round in the folds of a piece of dry linen, something like a small sheet. He then presents you with a pair of clogs, with wooden soles; in which, when you have inserted your feet, he supports and leads you over slippery marble floors, to an inner room also paved and fitted up with marble, in the middle of which is a large tank or reservoir of hot water, and into which a stream is continually flowing. The temperature of the inner room is high, and steamy-well calculated to occasion faintness in those who are not very strong. You are now quite in the power of the bather, who places you in a recumbent posture on the marble floor, just at the brink of the reservoir, and begins rubbing the face, beard and head with palm soap; and if shaving be needful, he performs that operation first. The body is then rubbed all over, for a quarter of an hour or so, with the hands, upon which are gloves, with a very rough surface, made of camel's hair, and saturated with palm soap. You are next scated on the marble floor, when 94 GRAND CAIRO-BATH. the bather kneels behind you; and, grasping you in his arms, and placing his knee firmly against your loins, stretches the vertebræ of the back. Next, by a dextrous movement, he passes his arm over your shoulders-folds your arms backwards, and stretches the shoulder blades as much as they will comfortably bear. Then, continuing the friction of the body a little longer, he bids you step into the tank, at a temperature of nearly one hundred, where you remain up to the chin for about a quarter of an hour. You are then made to recline again upon the brink, when the body is once more gently rubbed over with palm soap, and you are sent into the tank for five minutes more. As soon as you step out of it, the bather envelopes you in folds of dry linen, and binds also a bandage of the same about the head; and thus, swathed from head to foot, you are led back to the outer room, and placed in a reclining posture on the dewan, where you at first undressed, and a shesheh or a chibouk, with a cup of coffee, are immediately served, while the remainder of the operation is effected. The sedative effect of the mild tobacco and coffee is very agreeable after the bath. The remaining process consists in first kneading the muscles of the body and limbs, with the strong and practised hands of the bathers, for about ten minutes. Next the soles of the feet are rubbed gently with the hand, and then with a rough brush. Then the palms of the hands are rubbed in the same manner, and sometimes the joints are pulled and twisted till they crack. During all this process you recline in a state of almost dreamy composure, wrapped in linen, which by this time has become nearly dry. A small toilet glass is then handed to you, by which to adjust your hair and beard, if you have any, and the operation is complete. It is impossible to describe the sense of refreshment which pervades the whole system, after this lengthened, and perhaps rather tedious affair. The fact of European travellers having arrived at Cairo, in their way to the Great Desert, was soon known to the Bedaween Arabs who happened to be in the city; and on one occasion, when, after an excursion, we returned to our hotel, wo found a party of them, with a young Sheikh, sitting in a circle on the dust in the court-yard. This was the first sight I had of the Bedaween Arabs. They were awaiting our arrival, in order to tender their services as an escort. They rose up in a body as we approached, and immediately surrounded us, with courteous salaams; and the young wild-eyed Sheikh presented the testimonials of his fidelity and trustworthiness which he had received under the hands of some Europeans whom he had recently escorted. The first sight of a party of Bedaween Arabs is startling, and calculated to awaken a timid feeling in the mind of a stranger. But a Bedawee, in a city, is after all, very unlike himself when in the desert. Averse to stone walls and roofed houses, these wild birds seem as if they were cribbed and confined. Their steps are measured, slow, and suspicious. They lose their energy and spirit when away from the wilderness, in which they usually pass their days of wandering existence. As I shall have frequent occasion to mention the Bedaween, under whose escort alone a safe journey through the Arabian Desert is to be effected, I will here describe their general appearance and manners-at least the appearance and manners of those with whom I became most familiar. Amongst the almost endless variety of tribes who wander in the Desert, there are personal and conventional varieties; though in the main, they have many of their principal characteristics in common, as descendants from one stock. It is now, I believe generally agreed that they are all the progeny of Ishmael; and certainly they may be spoken of as having their hand against every man, and every man's hand against them. They are for the most part, straight, upright, and gracefully formed. I have never met with a lame or deformed Bedawee. They are generally of a spare habit, muscular and sinewy. Their skins are of a fine rich brown, very like the color of the carefully roasted coffee berry. Frequently their skin has almost a transparent appearance, and is capable of exhibiting emotion, in the rushing of the blood to the cheeks. Their eyes are well set in their heads, and are sparkling, burning |