Instructions in Tatting, or Frivolité.

THE only necessary implements for tatting are a shuttle or short nettingneedle, and a gilt pin and ring, united by a chain. The cotton used should be strong and soft. There are three available sizes, Nos. 1, 2, and 3. Attention should be paid to the manner of holding the hands, as on this depends the grace or awkwardness of the movement. Fill the shuttle with the cotton (or silk) required, in the same manner as a netting needle. Hold the shuttle between the thumb and first and second fingers of the right hand, leaving about half a yard of cotton unwound. Take up the cotton, about three inches from the end, between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and let the end fall in the palm of the hand; pass the cotton round the other fingers of the left hand (keeping them parted a little), and bring it again between the thumb and forefinger, thus making a circle round the extended fingers. There are only two stitches in tatting, and they are usually done alternately; this is therefore termed a double stitch.

knot must be invariably formed by the thread which passes round the fingers of the left hand. If the operation is reversed, and the knot formed by the cotton connected with the shuttle, the loop will not draw up. This is occasioned by letting the cotton from the shuttle hang loosely instead of drawing it out and holding it tightly stretched. When any given number of these double stitches are done, and drawn closely together, the stitches are held between the first finger and thumb, and the other fingers are withdrawn from the circle of cotton, which is gradually diminished by drawing out the shuttle until the loop of tatting is nearly or entirely closed. The tatted loops should be quite close to each other, unless direc tions to the contrary are given.

The pin is used in making an ornamental edge, something like purl edging, thus:-Slip the ring on the left-hand thumb, that the pin attached may be ready for use. After making the required number of double stitches, twist the pin in the circle of cotton, and hold it between the forefinger and thumb, whilst making more double stitches; repeat. The little loops thus formed are termed picots.

Trefoil Tatting is done by drawing three loops up tightly, made close together, and then leaving a short space before making more. The trefoil is sewed into shape afterwards with a

The first stitch is called the English stitch, and made thus:-Let the thread between the right and left hands fall towards you; slip the shuttle under the thread between the first and second fingers; draw it out rather quickly, keeping it in a horizontal line with the left hand. You will find a slipping loop is formed on this cotton with that which went round the fingers. Hold the shut-needle. tle steadily, with the cotton stretched To join loops. When two loops are tightly out, and with the second finger to be connected, a picot is made in the of the left hand slip the loop thus made under the thumb.

The other stitch is termed French stitch; the only difference being, that instead of allowing the cotton to fall towards you, and passing the shuttle downwards, the cotton is thrown in a loop over the left hand, and the shittle passed under the thread between the first and second fingers upwards. The

first, wherever the join is required. When you come to the corresponding part of the second loop, draw the thread which goes round the fingers of the left hand through the picot with a needle, pulling through a loop large enough to admit the shuttle. Slip this through, then draw the thread tight again over the fingers, and continue the work. 1 many patterns a needle is used to work

374

ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

over, in buttonhole stitch, the thread needle used to buttonhole over bar which passes from one loop to another. wherever they occur. A long needleful of the same cotton or silk used for the tatting is left at the beginning of the work, and a common

Picots are also sometimes made with the needle and cotton in working over these bars.

Materials.

Evans' tatting cotton, Boulton's steel shuttle, and a purling pin. The size of the cotton must depend upon the nature of the article which the edging is designed to trim. As a general rule, No. 1 is suitable for ladies' jupes, children's drawers, and other articles made in calico. No. 2 is a medium size, and will do for finer drawers, and generally for things made in jaconet or cambric muslin. No. 3 is very fine, and fit for infants' robes, caps, ladies' collars, &c.

1st Pattern.-Begin by threading the end of the cotton with a sewing needle. Double the cotton, allowing a long needleful on the needle; and holding the doubled end between the finger and

picot; 9 double, 1 picot, 3 double. Draw up this loop rather tighter; work on it 7 buttonhole stitches, and 2 on the thread afterwards.

4th Loop.-(At the point.) 2 double, thumb, do 14 buttonhole stitches with join to the picot, 12 double, 1 picot, 2 the needle. The thread can then be double. Draw this loop up quite tightly. drawn up tight, so as not to leave a Work 2 buttonhole stitches on the thread loop. Now begin with the shuttle.

afterwards.

1st Loop.-12 double stitches, 1 picot, 4 double, draw up the loop, but not 1 picot, 4 double, draw up this like the 5th Loop.-3 double, join, 9 double, tightly, and work with the needle on third. Work on it 7 buttonhole stitches, the bar of thread 10 buttonhole stitches. and 1 on the thread afterwards. Slip 2nd Loop. With the needle, do 2 the needle through between the two buttonhole stitches on the thread before buttonhole stitches after the second beginning this loop. 4 double, join to loop, and draw the thread through, the picot of the last; 8 double, I picot, allowing for a bar on which 6 but4 double. Draw this up like the first, tonhole stitches can be worked. By and work on the bar 10 buttonhole doing these the thread is brought stitches. 2 more on the thread before back to the fifth loop; do one more buttonhole stitch on the thread, and proceed to the

the

3rd Loop. - 4 double; join to the

6th Loop.-4 double, join; + 4 on the bar 10 buttonhole stitches, and 2 double, 1 picot, + twice, 4 double. after. Draw it up, and work it with 10 stitches. Then join across to between the first and second loops, as after the fifth.

1st Loop of the 2nd pattern.-4 double, join to the picot on the thread, 4 double, join to the picot of the 7th loop, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw it up and work of design.

INFANT'S CAP CROWN IN TATTING.

Materials.-Evans' Tatting Cotton, No. 3; Boulton's Steel Shuttle, No. 14; a very fine Purling Pin; and a Reel of Evans' Mecklenburgh, No. 12, for the Mechlin wheel in the

376

ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

2nd Pattern. 1st Loop. Three double stitches, join to the last picot made with the needle and cotton; 4 double stitches, join to the other picot made with the needle, 2 double stitches join to picot in centre of the 5th loop of 1st pattern (which has already been caught up in working with the needle), 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th Loops to be done as in 1st pattern.

Then work the buttonhole stitches with the needle and cotton as before. For the centre do ten loops thus:-1st Loop.-Four double stitches, 1 picot, 6 double stitches; join to the picot at the point of the 3rd loop of a pattern, 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 3

double stitches.

2nd Loop.-Four double stitches; join to the last picot of 1st loop 6 double stitches; join to the picot at the point!

of 3rd loop of a pattern; 6 double, 1 picot, 3 double stitches.

3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, and 10th, same as 2nd. These loops must not be drawn very tightly. The bars which connect them must be buttonholed, as those of the patterns.

These ten loops will form a small circle, within which a Mechlin wheel should be worked with the Mecklenburgh, No. 12. The crown when completed should be trimmed with the following narrow edge :

1st Loop.-Four double stitches, + 1 picot, 2 double stitches, + 4 times. Draw it up to form a semicircle.

2nd and all following Loops.-Two double stitches; join to the last picot of former loop 2 double stitches, + 1 picot, 2 double stitches + 4 times.

Draw up as 1st loop, and sew neatly round the crown.

TATTING.

the picot in the centre of connecting | oval, 4 double, draw up tight, repeat bar, 4 double, draw up tight, then with the reel thread over the left hand work 7 double, 1 picot, 7 double. With the shuttle thread next work 4 double, join to the same picot as the last made small

EDGING IN TATTING. NO. IV.