fall into the Umzimvoobo.-Rocks still sandstone, | cooking bowls, a head-plume and armlet of hair, with fine particles of quatez.

Wednesday, 21st.-We were prevented by a storm of heavy rain, attended with thunder, from completing the descent yesterday afternoon, which with the usual preparation of locking three wheels, and holding on ropes, was this morning effected, the last slope being just as difficult and precipitous as the first. Having crossed the stream which divided the base of the mountain from an-dred persons; and from the irregularity of the other, up which it was necessary to toil, we gained a more level country, traversing downs, until we again reached the same stream further to the westward, where we spanned out. One solitary hartebeest, with a few bucks, (ore buck,) alone were scen.

Afternoon. The route again becoming very intricate, and requiring much inspection, we were unable to proceed far, as the sun had nearly set when we gained the neighboring height, when we halted for the night. Distance travelled, twelve miles-general course, W.

with several other articles, but more especially the traces of the horses, sufficiently proved who had been the late occupants of this singular place of refuge. It could have been no other than a party of Amakōsa, who had retreated into this mountain fastness; and a more well-chosen place for defence it is scarcely possible to conceive. The cave itself could contain at least one hunapproach, and the numerous masses of rock lying detached about its mouth, its very existence might have long been concealed, while in the immediate neighborhood there is good and ample pasturage for a numerous herd of cattle. From various appearances, I am of opinion that they could not have quitted the spot more than six or seven weeks previously; had it been otherwise,' and Kafir mercy is unfortunately but too well we should have been completely at their mercy, known. With respect to their movements, but two conjectures could be formed; they had either abandoned their rock refuge on the notification of Friday, 23rd.-Finding yesterday morning that peace with the colony, or with the intention of a continued barrier of steep rocks prevented all concentrating their scattered forces in a place progress to the south-west, we again descended, more favorable for general combination. The and following the windings of a steep acclivity, former I consider as the most probable; but while skirted on our right by the river, forcing its pas- a doubt remains on the subject, it is sufficient to sage by a series of cataracts over the huge frag- deter ine from proceeding any further in a southments of rock that encumbered its bed, we pro-westerly direction, as from reports received when ceeded up the ravine, anxiously looking for an last at Bunting, and more especially from the outlet. Hemmed in on two sides by steep and avowal of Kheeli's spies, the tribe of the late rugged mountains, we were still enabled for three Hinza were meditating a retreat to the northward, miles to continue our course to the westward; and would probably, ere this, have occupied the but here a stop was at once put to all further ad- whole country from the head of the Kei to the vance, the mountains uniting near this point, and mountains, directly across our track. The time presenting nothing but a confused mass of crags had now arrived to decide whether or not it would and precipices, towering to a considerable height. be advisable, under all circumstances, to proseTo span out was obvious-nothing further was cute the present intention of reaching the colony practicable for wagons: parties, however, were by crossing the Quathlamba range. This, it was soon detached in different directions; but after a evident, could only be effected by abandoning the toilsome and difficult scramble to the summit of wagons and packing the oxen; but as they had the neighboring heights, which proved to be our already proved so refractory on comparatively unyielding friends, the noted Quathlamba, we all plain ground, it was exceedingly doubtful, if, with returned with the same unfavorable report that it all our exertions, we could urge them over the was utterly impossible to proceed. Level spots mountains without losing the greater part of our indeed were there-and could the wagons by any supplies. I never longed so much for a Spanish means have been conveyed to the top, it is pro-"borico;" but even then, deceived as we had bable that for five or six miles they might travel without difficulty; but, then the descent!-and the complete labyrinth of rocky precipices which seemed to intersect the country in every direction, made it evident that the same labor must be repeated again and again, before we could hope to surmount the difficulties with which we were beset. While on this fruitless search, numerous traces of horses and cattle were observed; and Jacob reported that he had traced a well-beaten path to the brink of a cave, which appeared to be inhabited. No time was lost in exploring this unexpected haunt; and following the winding footpath for about half a mile further up the valley, we suddenly reached the mouth of a cavern, formed by a huge slab of rock jutting out from the precipice, the interior of which had been ingeniously partitioned off by trunks and branches of trees, so as to form four separate rooms or compartments. Marks of fire were every where visible: remnants of mats, bunches of Indian corn,

been by every previous account of this country (having encountered nothing but steep mountains where open plains were reported, and actually laid down in the maps,) there was little probability of meeting with any very even country throughout the whole intervening route to Stockenstrom's river. The only prudent course seemed to be to endeavor to make the coast by the nearest route (a south-east course;) and when thus assured of our actual position, to make the best of our way once more to Bunting, in the hope of the Kafir war having in the mean time terminated, and the usual road to the colony being again open. Having finally come to this determination, we took our leave of the rocks and precipices of Quathlamba, and, retracing our steps, yesterday afternoon traversed open downs until some time past sunset, when we spanned out. Several paths worn by the Kafirs were observed by the way. To the ravine, in which the cave was discovered, I have given the name of "Cavernglen."

Distance travelled fourteen miles-general course,
E. E. by E. half E.

This morning crossed a stream, apparently a branch of a larger, issuing from the mountains more to the westward, and which, from its general course and size, I consider to be the Umzimvoobo; its source cannot be far from the position we occupied yesterday morning. Continued our progress over open downs without trees; herds of gneu in all directions, in one of them I counted thirty-seven; two shots were fired, but without effect. When seen at full gallop, with their heads down, their long white tails floating in the wind, and the necks and foreheads thickly covered with long shaggy hair, they have a most ferocious appearance. On gaining the heights we had a fine view of the Quathlamba range, which, as far as they were visible, appeared to run in one continuous line due east and west by compass. The highest points (Saddle-back and the Giant's Cup) I should not suppose were more than 4000 feet from the level of the valley, probably not so much. A remarkable detached peak has been in view, bearing by compass E. by S. On our right is an extensive undulating plain bounded by mountains, through which the river I take to be the Umzimvoobo is observed to make many windings. One of my people (Georgo,) who had accompanied the last expedition of the Zoolus against Tpai, recognised it as the spot where the guides lost their way, and in consequence the army was obliged to return.

And bowls, and plumes, and corn we found,
As they had left them strewed around,
Beside their rocky lair.

Oh! could these crags the tale unfold,
Of all that passed within that hold;

How oft on Abaloongu's* race
Were threats and bitter curses heaped,
As frantic round their fires they leaped,
Burning t' avenge their foul disgrace.

But all is still-and now again
The beasts of prey resume their den,

By fiercer men thus dispossessed;
Where once was heard the Kafir's shout
A dreadful silence reigns throughout-
A solitude that quite oppressed!

Adieu, ye rocky heights-adieu!
Your cloud-capped tops I love to view,

For there my Maker's power I trace;
Firm as your base His word remains,
And as your streams refresh the plains,

Unbounded flows His sovereign grace.

What though no human voice is there,
Of all your wonders to declare,

And waft the breath of praise;
As long as earth's foundations stand,
You'll witness bear of Him who planned,

And who alone your peaks could raise.

Saturday, 24th.-This morning before we started a gneu was killed, the flesh of which was soon after suspended at the back of the wagon. Continued over open downs, skirted by mountains; troops of gneu prancing about in all directions; spanned out at nine.

Afternoon.-Several gneu in sight. On riding towards them they often stand and snort for some time, and then suddenly plunge, kick up, and lash their tails, and in an instant are off at full gallop, making the dust fly as they sweep over the hills. Compared to our late difficulties all seemed now smooth and plain, indeed, in the direction we are Afternoon. Appearance of the country the now travelling, open undulating downs generally lay in our way; the slopes, however, are often where I stood; there must have been many more same; counted seventy-six gneu from the spot very steep and rocky. Soon after sunset reached in the neighborhood. About midway took a last a valley, where we stopped for the night; we had look at the Quathlamba; they were soon aftertaken the precaution of carrying wood in the wa-wards hid by the mountains we were approachgon, or we should have been unable to have pro-ing; at this time the peak over Cavernglen bore cured any this evening. Travelled twenty-one N.W. by N. by compass. Having collected sufmiles-general course, S. E. half S.

ON LEAVING THE QUATHLAMBA
MOUNTAINS.

Although we toiled in vain to clamber
Across the steeps of proud Quathlamba,
Still that rugged vale we trod,
Where treacherous Amakōsa sought
A refuge from the sword they brought
Just recompense for deeds of blood.

Deep in the mazes of that dark defile,
Hid by a huge gigantic pile

Of rocky fragments strewed around,
A yawning cavern stood revealed,
Where long the foe had been concealed,
And yet a trophy there we found.

The cave was black with smoke and flame,
Each grassy couch remained the same

As though they'd just been sleeping there

ficient fire-wood by the way, we spanned out about sunset on the bank of a rocky river. Travelled twenty-one miles-general course, S. E.

Sunday, 25th.

"I will never leave thee nor forsake thee."-(He
brews xiii. 5.)

Oh! for faith to walk aright,
Seeing Him who's always near;
Guided-not by erring sight-
Till the promised day appear.

How 't would sweeten every care,
How 't would every joy enhance,
Did we know the Lord was near,-
Like Peter feel His loving glance !

The general term for white men among all these tribes.

And when I see thee as thou art,

And nought but charity abides ;What rapture will that sight impart !— I'll seek no other bliss besides!

Morning-English service in the tent ;-Afternoon-Kafir service in the open air.

A

Monday, 26th.-Crossed the river, and soon after another rocky stream running into it. herd of gneu made off on our approach to the plain where we spanned out.

reason to regret their absence, as nearly all were yesterday made ill by partaking of the flesh. The flavor is so similar to that of beef, that I should scarcely haye known the difference; but as all suffered in the same manner, and it was not considered by the rest of the party as tougher than the meat they had been accustomed to, I have no hesitation in ascribing the cause to this new diet. A thick mist coming on, we spanned out rather earlier than usual. About an hour and a half before we bivouaced for the night we crossed a wagon track.

Wednesday, 28th.-Thunder and light rain during part of the night; in the morning it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Having been so long unaccustomed to a wooded country, the note of birds, though often not very melodious, was cheering, and met the ear like the voice of an old acquaintance. Hilly country. Spanned out about one. Close to this spot was one of the treeferns so common in the neighborhood of Agate Vale. It was growing in a pit, and is the only one I have since seen.

Afternoon.-Travelled until a thunder-storm, which had been long gathering among the mountains to the northward, overtook us, but were unable to find any place of shelter until after sunset, when we gained a valley by a very deep descent. Travelled twenty miles-general course, S. by

E. half E.

Thursday, 29th.-Prevented by the rain from leaving our last night's bivouac until the after noon; but we had not proceeded many hundred yards when the baggage-wagon was thrown over by a rock on ascending the hill, which was very slippery and uneven. As every thing was obliged to be taken out before it could be again placed on its wheels, a considerable delay was occasioned, when again en route, we passed several old footpaths, in which the foot-prints of a native were obAfternoon.-Soon after crossing the stream served. On an opposite ridge, the site of a former near which we had stopped, ant-hills were again village was distinctly traced with the different footobserved; none had been seen in the neighbor-ken open into round-topped hills, which obliged paths diverging from it ;-country waved;-brohood of the Quathlamba;-one solitary gneu;we are now leaving the open downs, which they seem to prefer, and are traversing a more broken country. Crossed another stream, and soon after sunset made our bivouac; no wood but what had been collected by the way.

Travelled twenty-two miles-general course, south.

Tuesday, 27th.-Crossed two steep mountains, but without difficulty, as they were round topped and covered with grass. Spanned out on a valley

about noon.

Afternoon.-A continuation of hills, some very steep; the appearance of the country evident ly changed;-large timbers in the ravines, and many plants and flowers which grow only in the vicinity of the coast. This morning we were reduced to the necessity of cutting up a broken yoke in order to cook the breakfast, but such expedients are not now likely to be repeated. Water we have always found abundant. The gneu have now entirely deserted us, this country being ill adapted for their wild racing. Excepting that they greatly enlivened the solitude, we have no

us to make many circuits to avoid the hollows be-
tween. At sunset spanned out, and sent ten span
of oxen to drag in an eland that had been shot at
Travelled ten
some distance from our track.
miles-general course, S. by E. half E.

Friday, 30th.-Unable to set out early on account of the rain. Passed the site of several villages, supposed to have been those whence Charka drove the Amapondas. Descended a very steep hill, when my wagon was all but overturned, and halted on the opposite bank of a stream running through the narrow valley. The thorny mimosa is now again common; it has not been observed further inland during this journey.

Afternoon.-Made but little progress; toiled up steep hills but to descend by as difficult slopes; and again crossed the same stream, which we take to be the Umsecaba. Slate rocks are now observed in the beds of all the streams. Georgo (the leader of my wagon) has fallen in with a prize, having discovered the bones of an elephant lying among some trees near the route. two teeth, which are perfect, I have allowed him

The

Tuesday, 3rd.-The scramble to extricate our-conducting us by the shortest route to the first selves from this ravine was a trial of strength to practicable ford across the numerous rivulets which both men and oxen. In the hope of preserving lay in our way. About this time our position with one dry garment I had attempted to ride, but my regard to the coast was recognised; it appeared only saddle girth giving way nothing was left but evident that we were on the left bank of the Umto wade middle-deep in wet grass, the saddle be- secaba, and at about four o'clock we succeeded ing only prevented from slipping off by buckling in gaining the wagon track near the beach.the girth under his neck. This day also proved We had scarcely time to pitch the tent when a rainy, so that a dry thread was not to be found thunder storm came on, and, as the tide was too among us, and, fearing to remount in this state, I high for crossing, we took up our quarters here walked during the greater part of the day. In for the night. Great cause have I, indeed, for the afternoon it cleared up, and, being on an emi- thankfulness at this merciful termination of so nence at the time, a momentary glimpse of the long and so anxious a journey. The hand of my sea was discerned. The joy which this afforded God has indeed been upon us for good. The reto us all can scarcely be described, and I desire lief to my mind I can scarcely express-not that to thank my God for this earnest of success, and I ever for a moment doubted His watchful care for having thus far prospered our way. Conduct- and guidance, but I felt the responsibility of ated by an elephant path we soon after descended tempting to conduct so many persons with means through a wood into another valley; and having, apparently so inadequate. The tribes of baboons not without some difficulty, forded the stream which issued from their haunts to salute us during which flowed through it, halted for our mid-day's this day's journey were quite extraordinary. At bivouac on the opposite bank. one time I counted twenty old and young collectThe underwood is here abundant, and the na-ed together, probably, like ourselves, enjoying the ture of the country favorable for game; pheasants sunshine after the late rains. Some of the elders and partridges have been seen in great numbers were of large size, and one, who was strutting both yesterday and to-day. The romantic dells about erect, was full five feet in height. On one and ravines, which at short intervals intersect this of these occasions an interesting domestic scene beautiful district, would under other circumstances took place. On reaching the brow of a hill, some have afforded me much gratification, but unfortu- of the party had suddenly disturbed a large group nately my attention was too often drawn away by of these creatures. Their impulse and actions the floundering of the oxen and the necessary ad- were quite human; on the first alarm the mothers justment of their burdens. While partaking of hastily ran back, snatched up their young, and, our hasty meal on the banks of this stream, a bearing them in their paws, scampered off with whole community of baboons (dog-faced) made all their speed. Although the generality of the their appearance on the opposite hill; some slowly flowers in this country are scentless, there is no moving with an inquisitive look towards us; others district which I have passed throughout this jourdeliberately seating themselves upon the rocks, as ney which has not produced many of great beauty. though debating on the propriety of our uncere- In the early part several varieties of Haemanthus monious tresspass upon their domain. I counted were very common, richly carpeting the ground eight, some of which from their size must at least with their bright pink and crimson colors; the have been grandsires. On quitting this valley by Gladiolus, with its white, blue, or amber bells, is another rocky clamber, open downs were again also very general; and even among the most before us indented by rugged ravines. Stopped rocky parts the elegant Ixia pendula, bearing a for the night noar a small stream which we reach-profusion of lilac blossom, makes a splendid aped soon after sunset. Travelled twenty miles-pearance. The Leontice is quite a weed in many general course, S. E. parts, but contrasts well with the foliage of the Wednesday, 4th.-Fair weather. Soon after underwood, among which it grows to a great quitting our bivouac the sea was again distinctly seen at a distance, in a direct line of not more than seven miles; but, although we were apparently so near, the greater part of the day was consumed in finding a road to the beach. No sooner had we made a considerable circuit to avoid an impassable chasm, than our progress was again stopped by a still more precipitous ravine. Some of these were strikingly grand; and so suddenly approached that we were frequently standing on the brink of a precipice seven or eight hundred feet in depth, of the existence of which we had, at a few hundred yards distance, been wholly unconscious. Into one of the most striking of these a thread-like cataract, unbroken in its descent, was precipitated over the rocky rampart; the splash of its clear waters, as they mingled with the stream below, being only recognised by Thursday 5th.-Sent two men back with directhe reverberating echo, a thick screen of luxuriant tions for the wagons, and, crossing the river at wood concealing its base. During many of our the mouth, continued our route towards the Amawanderings this day we were indebted to our for-ponda country. Near this spot the Grosvenor mer pioneers the elephants, their paths invariably East Indiainan was lost in 1782. Two of the

height. Plants of Lachenalia, bearing a cluster of red pendent bells, are also very common; but there is one of great beauty, which, until I can learn the botanical name, I must call the Feather plant. The stamens are each distinctly feathered with a glossy violet down, and beautifully relieved by the bright yellow of the anthers. Its general height is about twelve or fourteen inches. During the last two days the Hemanthus have quite enamelled the ground, and many of the plants above mentioned have also been seen. Surely Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these! Well indeed may we exclaim with the pious Psalmist-" O Lord! how manifold are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made them all."

Travelled twenty miles-general course, S. S. E.