the United States, begged that I would take pity' on them and not proceed. I felt that, aside from its being an unnecessary risk to subject my party and the interest of the expedition to, it was almost cruelty to the Indians to drive them to commit any desperate act, which would call for chastisement from the Government.

"But this was not the only reason they urged against our proceeding. They said that the treaty made with General Harney gave to the whites the privilege of traveling on the Platte and along the White river, between Fort Pierre and Laramie, and to make roads there, and to travel up and down the Missouri in boats; but that it guaranteed to them that no white people should travel elsewhere in their country, and thus frighten away the buffalo by their careless manner of hunting them. And, finally, that my party was there to examine the country to ascertain if it was of any value to the whites, and to discover roads through it, and places for military posts; and that having given up already all the country that they could spare, these Black Hills must be left wholly to themselves. Moreover, if none of these things should occur, our passing through their country would give us a knowledge of the character and the proper way to traverse it in the event of another war between themselves and the troops. I was necessarily compelled to admit to myself the truth and force of these objections.

"The Indians whom I first met were the Minikanyes, to the number of forty lodges, near whom, as they were very friendly, we encamped. They were soon joined by the warriors of a large camp of Unkpapas aud Sihasapas and our position, which was sufficiently unpleasant in the presence of such a numerous party of half-avowed enemies, was rendered doubly so by a storm of sleet and snow, which lasted two days and nights, and against which we had but little protection.

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A young Indian who had accompanied us from Fort Laramie,considered the danger to us so imminent that he forsook our camp and joined his friends, the Minikanyes. Under these embarrassing circumstances my associates evinced the

most resolute bravery and determination to abide the result like true men. I consented to wait three days without advancing, in order to meet their great warrior, Bear's Rib, appointed First Chief by General Harney's treaty, merely changing our position to one offering greater facilities for defense. At the expiration of the time, Bear's Rib not making his appearance, we broke up camp, and, traveling back on our route about forty miles, struck off to the eastward, through the southern part of these mountains. The point where we turned back is well marked by the Inyan Kaya Peak, whose position was fixed by us.

"After we had proceeded two days on our journey eastward, we were overtaken by Bear's Rib and one other Indian who accompanied him. He reiterated all that had been said by the other chiefs, and added that he could do nothing to prevent our being destroyed if we attempted to proceed farther. I then told him that I believed him to be our friend, but that if he could do nothing for us he had better return to his people and leave us to take care of ourselves, as I was determined to proceed as far as Bear Butte.

"After a whole day spent in deliberation, he concluded to accompany us a part of the way, and he said he would then return to his people and use his influence to have us not molested. In return for this he wished me to say to the President and to the white people that they could not be allowed to come into that country; that if the presents sent were to purchase such a right they did not want them. All they asked of the white people was to be left to themselves and be let alone; that if the presents were sent to induce them not to go to war with the Crows and their other enemies, they did not wish them.

"War with them was not only a necessity, but a pastime. He said General Harney had told them not to go to war and yet he was all the time going to war himself (Bear's Rib knew that when General Harney left the Sioux country he had gone to the war in Florida, and was at the time in command of the army sent against the Mormons).

He said moreover that the annuities scarcely paid for going after them; and that if they were not distributed to them while they were on their visit to the trading posts on the Missouri to dispose of their robes, they did not want them.

"It is a fact that for several years, owing to this cause, these Indians have not come in for their goods at all.

"He said that he heard that the Ihanktonwans were going to sell their lands to the whites. If they did so, he wished them informed that they could not come on his people's lands. They must stay with the whites. Every day the Ihanktonwans were coming there but were always turned back. Whatever may have been Bear's Rib actions after leaving us it is certain we saw no more Indians in the Black Hills.

"We completed our reconnoissance along the eastern portion of these mountains as far as Bear peak, which forms another convenient and accurate point with which any future reconnoissance may connect with our own. We also visited the north fork of the Cheyenne (the Belle Fourche), in this vicinity. On our return we took a southeast direction, striking the south fork of the Cheyenne at the mouth of Sage creek. We then proceeded up the south fork to French creek; thence southeast, through the Bad Lands, to White river; thence along the sources of White Clay creek and Porcupine creek; and thence to Niobrara, striking it in longitude 102°-03′.”

CHAPTER III.

CAPTAIN W. F. RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION.

This expedition started from St. Louis, May 28, 1859, by steamer, passed up the Missouri to Fort Pierre, and left the river at that point June 28, 1859, having for its object the examination of the headwaters of the Yellowstone and

Missouri rivers, and of the mountains in which they have their sources.

Leaving Fort Pierre the expedition went westward, skirting the northern slopes of the Black Hills to the waters of the Powder river; down that stream to within forty miles of the Yellowstone; thence westward to that river, below the mouth of the Big Horn; thence southward to the Platte, by two routes, one up the Big Horn, skirting the eastern base of the Big Horn Mountains, the other from 20 to 50 miles further east. The expedition wintered at Deer creek on the North Platte.

From winter-quarters to the three forks of the Missouri the expedition was divided. One party passed up the Wind river with the intention to reach the headwaters of the Yellowstone, but was compelled by impassable mountains to cross to the headwaters of the Columbia, near the sources of the Colorado; thence along the west side to Henry Lake; thence down the Madison to the three forks of the Missouri. The second party passed through the valley of the Big Horn to the lower canyon; thence westward, by the Yellowstone and Gallatin to the three forks of the Missouri; thence to the mouth of the Yellowstone by three routes the first by way of the Yellowstone; the second overland, on the east side of the Missouri to Fort Benton; thence by the Missouri; and the third overland from Fort Benton, following approximately the line separating the waters of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers. From the mouth of the Yellowstone, part of the expedition descended the Missouri in boats to Omaha, and the remainder reached that place by a route never passed before on the west side of the Missouri.

The following is part of the report of Captain Raynolds:

"The country claimed by the Great Sioux or Dakota nation, prior to the organization of the Territories of Nebraska, Dakota and Minnesota, was very extensive. Commencing on the northeastern limit at Lac qui Parle, an

imaginary line would run in a northwest direction, taking in Lac du Diable, thence inclining south by west, including Turtle Mountain and the head of Pembina river, would strike the Missouri river at the mouth of Apple river, below the Gros Ventres village. Crossing the Missouri, it would proceed up the Grand river of the Arikaras (or even some distance west of this river), bearing west by south until reaching near the head of Powder river. From this point it would continue along the range of mountains called the Black Hills in a southern direction, until reaching Fort Laramie on the Platte, thence down that river for some distance, afterwards extending east to the junction of the Niobrara with the Missouri river, thence down that stream to the mouth of the Big Sioux river, this being the boundary line to which their claims had been extinguished by the United States. Proceeding along the Big Sioux river inclining northeast, taking in the Vermilion and James rivers, their lands would terminate by a junction with the starting point at Lac qui Parle. The United States has purchased of the Indians most of the territory comprised within the above limits.

"That portion of their lands east and north of the Missouri is quite sterile, and with the exception of some coulées and hills, formed by the rivers and creeks, presents a most monotonous prairie, many hundred miles in length and breadth, very level, and devoid of trees, or even shrubs. The soil is loose and sandy, grass rather thin, and in no great variety, that known as the short, curly, buffalo grass being the most abundant. In former times, this was the great range for the buffalo, but of late years, they are found in greater numbers west of the Missouri. The soil is generally too dry for agricultural purposes, except along the borders of streams, where it is for the most part quite fertile. In some parts where the vegetation is luxuriant, the grass is very nutritious, and would, in common with most of the Northwest Territory, afford good grazing for horses, horned cattle, and sheep. Small lakes are to be met with in this region, from which the Indians get their sup