ing any other being nor hearing a scrap of news, is a trying existence, yet I can unhesitatingly say no jollier or happier little party ever lived in Northern latitudes. Four months of solid night every year has, however, a depressing effect, not only on the spirits, but on the appetite, and it also destroys sleep. Morning, noon, and night become unrecognizable, merged into one endless gloom, and but for the welcome advent of the moon once a month, when the sky was sufficiently clear for us to enjoy her rays, we lived in a blackness the dreariness of which is indescribable.

As the schoolboy counts the days to the holidays, so we counted the hours till the return of the sun, and even as the first rays became visible our spirits rose, and existence altogether wore a different complexion. Then exercise became enjoyable, instead of that dreary daily trudge round a given circle in the dark: with the return of the light we felt new life and energy. And yet the climate of Franz-Josef Land, even in spring, would not suit all tastes; for example, out of fifty-five days' sledging, ending in May, 1897, Mr. Albert Armitage and I enjoyed only thirteen and a half tolerably clear days! Driving snow, wind, and bitter

cold were general; for, be it understood, in all these three years the thermometer never rose higher than eleven degrees above freezing point, and seventy to eighty degrees below that point was quite

common.

They say eels get used to skinningwell, we may have fairly got used to wind, mist, and snow- - but we hardly liked it!

I will describe an ordinary winter day's work, though-paradoxical, but true-the greater number of the days in the arctic are nights. About 8 A. M. we turned out of our blankets, and all had a good wash, and the man whose turn it was had a bath (one man had a bath each morning; the scarcity of water would not admit of more than this). Breakfast then followed. consisting of porridge, tinned fish, fried bear-meat, and tea or coffee. The work of the day then began. The house was swept out (a duty usually performed by myself during the last twelve months), the breakfast things washed up, and other domestic duties performed. The dogs and pony too had to be fed, and the stable and dog-house cleaned out, and the animals exercised.

All then took the regular daily walk. This, unless there was a moon, was taken

round and round a circle on the floe, marked with small flags, where we stumbled over the rough, hummocky ice through the mist and driving snow two or three hours each day.

This rather tread-mill-like exercise being completed, we all return to the hut, where we set to work upon the duties in hand-making tents, dog-harness, pony's snow-boots, weighing out provisions for sledging, and making ration-bags, etc.

In addition, our scientific observations are taken regularly. Throughout the first two winters meteorological observations were carried on two-hourly throughout the night and day, the party being divided into watches for the purpose.

The scene outside the hut is desolate and dreary in the extreme. To the north, behind the hut, the high basaltic cliffs with the steep talus running down are dimly discernible through the dense mist and falling snow. An occasional gust of wind still comes rushing along at ir regular intervals-the expiring remains of a recent gale-and carrying a whirl of icy particles with it. All around else where is an indefinite white expanse, from which here and there project ice-covered bowlders. The wind still moans in the

cliffs above us. A short distance off the land the roars of ice-pressure proclaim the commotion there existing, now rumbling like distant thunder, now breaking forth into yells and shrieks as if a thousand fiends had suddenly been let loose, and then dying out in a shrill whistle. For a few moments all is still; and then those weird sounds continue.

Once a month we get the eagerly lookedfor moon, which, if the sky is clear and the weather is calm, entirely alters the aspect of the landscape. Then the fantastically irregular surface of the great ice-floes, the frost-covered cliffs, and the surface of the external glaciers, silently and slowly flowing to the sea, are lighted up with a silvery brightness, and all is still and peaceful. Everything in life appears most cheery. Long runs on "ski" are taken; and should a bear make his appearance, and a chase ensue, the day is a red-letter one indeed. Unfortunately such days in Franz-Josef Land are of rare occurrence, and the more dreary weather which I have endeavored to describe is characteristic of the winter in this country.

At about 3 P.M. we knock off work for a few minutes and have a little tea and bread or ship-biscuit and butter, and

"NIMROD" ON BEAR GUARD.

then resume our work until 7.30 P.M., when work ceases for the day, and we have dinner, consisting of dried soups, bear meat, and pudding; after which every one follows his own devices-plays cards, smokes, or reads until about 11 P.M., when we turn in for the night.

Occasionally a bear hunt would give us some diversion. I always allowed two or three

stumble through the mist and darkness over the floes. After proceeding a mile or so, gradually the noise would become more and more distinct, and some small dark objects jumping around a large yellow one, from which proceed loud hisses and snarls, would appear in sight.

A halt is then called to enable us to recover our wind after a rough-andtumble pursuit.

The bear, in the mean time, has been engaged in making rushes at the dogs, one of whom, with his tail tucked between his legs, and looking as if he had seen things he would gladly forget, runs up to where we are standing.

dogs, which showed some aptitude for bear hunting, to run loose during the winter, and had one dog, "Nimrod," tied to a rough kennel just outside the hut. These dogs would get on the track of a bear on the floe and set up a barking, "Nimrod" would take up the chorus, and thus let us know what was going

on.

One of my men and I would then set off in chase with our rifles, and, guided by the cry of the dogs,

We then separate and advance from opposite points until within about ten yards of our game-my rule being to approach the animal until the outlines of his head could be distinctly made out. He appears to be a little undecided as to

whether to charge us or to beat a retreat, but a dog, taking advantage of his indecision, and encouraged by our presence,

A BEAR HUNT.