A stately pleasure dome decree;
Where Alph, the sacred river ran

Through caverns measureless to man
Down to a sunless sea.

So twice five miles of fertile ground

With walls and towers were girdled round."
-Coleridge.

IV

PEKING AND THE NORTH CHINA MISSION

T

HE halo of age and of mystery long hung about the northern capital of China. From Marco Polo's day onward great interest has gathered about the city of the Great Khan. Our modern days have made the name Peking a household word. The splendid capital of any nation merits a world-wide interest. The glamour of antiquity softens the coloring while it increases the charm of the capital city of China. The classical name, still maintained in elegant Chinese writing, "The Swallow Capital," reached back into the depths of ancient times. The present city owes its general form to the military grandson of Genghis Khan, who made it his capital.

Dr. Ament's researches in the history of the Mongol occupation and the records of Marco Polo show clearly that the elder city of the Golden Tartars was somewhat southwest of the present site, though including portions of the southern city. Kublai built a vast enclosure, the mud walls of which are still seen two miles before entering the modern city. This had no facing of brick. Even the present city owes its fine rectangular form, its broad, parallel thoroughfares, its many lanes, wider than the narrow streets of other Chinese cities, to the Great Khan who adorned it with palaces and temples. When the Mongols were expelled the city was reduced in size. The

first of the Mings built the north wall, and the great Yung Lo, in 1419, rebuilt the other three sides. The Manchus found a city noble in its proportions and strength. Its wall, fifty feet high, with its succession of buttresses and crenelations, is thought to be the finest in Asia. The southern city, in reality a suburb to the Manchu palaces, was enclosed within a wall in 1543. Many elaborate descriptions, with accounts of the temples and architectural adornments of the city, have been given. The approach to the city is impressive. Its walls and towers loom up grandly from the low plain. From the top of the wall the vast area of the city seems livid with the green of acacia trees covering the low roofed courts and residences.

The Coal Hill with its graceful temples, the long rows of imperial palaces glittering in their yellow glaze, the temples of the Tartar city, the princely homes with green tile in lieu of yellow, the vast parks in the southern city, home of the Temple of Heaven and the Temple of Agriculture, add their interest to the attractions.

The lure of this Chinese city not only attracted the waiting diplomats, but merchant and missionary were held in leash until the dogs of war could give them opportunity. Among those thus eager to find an approach to the Manchu capital were the missionaries of the American Board of Missions, then, and for a decade or more, located at Shanghai. Among these were Henry Blodget and William Aitcheson. Fellow students and tutors at Yale College, they had come to China in 1854. In 1859 Mr. Aitcheson had accompanied the American minister, Mr. John W. Davis, as an assistant interpreter with Rev. W. A. P. Martin, Dr. Williams being secretary of legation. Returning from Peking Mr. Aitcheson had fallen ill en route to Tientsin and died on the way. The loss of his fellow worker affected Mr. Blodget very

deeply. Having gone to Japan in the summer of 1860, an opportunity came to him to sail for Tientsin with the allied fleet in a troop ship carrying soldiers from Japan. He arrived in Tientsin August 26, 1860. The capture of Peking, the humiliation of the imperial government and the continued occupation of Tientsin made it possible for him to secure a foothold in that quaint city.

After a return to Shanghai, Mr. Blodget came north again in October to the newly opened port and thus became the forerunner of the still increasing number of mission workers. A preaching chapel was soon found within the city, on the main street not far from the bell tower. Rented at first, the premises were later purMr. Blodget remained at Tientsin for three years until the station was well reënforced by younger men. He then sought a place in the capital itself. Others had preceded him there, among them Rev. W. A. P. Martin, who in April, 1910, celebrated his sixtieth year of service in China, the Nestor well beloved of all missions in China.

Among the workers at Peking was Dr. Stewart, who had fine premises secured for medical work. He found himself, however, obliged to withdraw and had offered the premises for sale. Mr. Blodget at once made an effort to secure the location for his mission. It was suggested to Mrs. Bridgman, of Shanghai, that she might aid in securing the fine place in Peking. She accordingly purchased the residence of Dr. Stewart at the value of eight thousand taels. Mr. Blodget at once removed to Peking and was followed by Mrs. Bridgman herself in the autumn of 1864. As was her wont, Mrs. Bridgman gathered a few girls and so started the school which still perpetuates her name in the Bridgman Academy for Girls.

The central location of the compound gave it special importance. The street on which it looked was one of

the short cross avenues. It gives access to the centre of the city and to the imperial palace gate to the southwest. The street bears the quaint name Teng Shih Kou, The Lamp Market Street."

The securing of the premises marked a definite advance in the prosecution of mission work. Mr. Blodget opened a rear gate, off from his study, and in the afternoon spoke to those who cared to listen or to read. Among the latter was an intelligent Manchu, with a fine face though marked with smallpox. He came frequently and looked over the little books. He was a needle seller. Mr. Blodget asked him if he would not like to come every afternoon and read to the people. This he consented to do for a small reward. He was about the same age as Mr. Blodget. As a bannerman, he had a small monthly stipend and some duties, such as are assigned to the different banners. Thus it came about that Mr. Jung became attached to the mission. He became a disciple. His clear voice and fine Peking speech added to his service. When the street chapel was opened Jung Hsien Sheng became the accepted preacher. As his knowledge of Christian tenets increased his ability to explain advanced. It is a joy to record that some thirty years later it could be said of him: "He is an honest Chinaman.” His strong and admirable character developing through years of service was a signal light to the growing church at Peking. He lived to mourn the departure of Dr. Blodget in 1894. He had seen the Christian fellowship grow from nothing to many hundreds and had seen the expansion into distant provinces.

The position in Peking being secure, there were successive reënforcements: Mr. J. T. Gulick, for the Mongol work in 1864; Rev. Chauncey Goodrich, in 1865; Mr. P. R. Hunt and Miss Porter, in 1868; Rev. C. Holcombe, in 1869.