5. Shall I pay extra for selected seed?

6. When should I transplant my hotbed plants?

7. What are some advantages of growing plants in hotbeds?

8. What forms of fertilizers shall I use?

Subject: Forage.

LESSON 112.

Topic: Meadows and Pastures.

Sources of information.-Benson and Betts, pp. 154-163; Ferguson and Lewis, pp. 241 and 296-299; Duggar, pp. 174–181; Burkett, Stevens, and Hill, pp. 284-297; Warren, pp. 182-198. Supplement the lesson with notes from F. B. Nos. 814, 820, 339, (441), and 455.

Illustrative material.-Procure in advance, if possible, samples of the different forage crops grown in the community for meadows and pastures. Observe and study types of soil upon which each was grown. Likewise, observe the formation of the plant, the root system, etc. Have pupils present maps or plans of the home farm showing arrangement of crops, pastures and meadows.

Class exercises.-If conditions permit, a reasonable space on every farm should be given to meadows and pastures. Pastures not only reduce the amount of corn and hay needed for live stock, but the green feed makes the animals more thrifty and less subject to attack from diseases.

Temporary pastures are usually planned for a year or two, and it is not considered good practice to sow pastures for such a short period. If, however, a quick pasture is needed for only two or three years, quick-growing grasses and clovers are used. For this kind of pasture, rye grass, redtop, timothy, red clover, and alsike clover are best. The following mixture is recommended for temporary pastures for 1 acre: Red clover, 6 pounds; alsike clover, 4 pounds; redtop, 4 pounds; timothy, 5 pounds; and English rye grass, 15 to 20 pounds.

Permanent pastures are most commonly on land not adapted to growing other crops. The land is often uneven in quality, and good judgment is needed in selecting grass for pasture plants. The following grasses are recommended for permanent pastures: (1) Kentucky blue grass, which is very valuable, but does not thrive well on an acid or a soil low in fertility; (2) Canada blue grass, which is excellent in quality, and which will grow on acid soils and on soils of average fertility; (3) redtop, which is less palatable than blue grass but grows on acid soils; (4) timothy, which is a good combination with redtop; (5) Bermuda grass, the most valuable permanent pasture grass for southern conditions, but difficult to eradicate.

Permanent pastures should have all useless brush removed and weeds should be eradicated. Bear in mind that weeds furnish a very

poor pasture. Feed live stock on portions of the pasture which appear too poor to produce the desired grass.

On some farms meadows will be found which are kept in sod for years, being especially adapted to special grasses. These meadows are often mowed twice each year and the hay is cured for winter feed. Practical exercises.-Have pupils write to the agricultural college of their State for suggestions as to the grasses best adapted to permanent and temporary pastures and meadows. Have pupils report on practice in the community with regard to pastures. Find out which grasses are most successful. Give the main reasons for having a mixture of grasses in permanent pastures. What general differences should be made in selecting permanent and temporary pastures? Work out a good pasture mixture for your locality. Examine roots of different grasses to distinguish between temporary and permanent pasture grasses.

Shop practice.-Part I: Exercise XXIII, United States Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 527. Devote the practice periods. of this lesson and Lesson 115 to Exercise XXIII in the shop.

LESSON 113.

Subject: Home orchard.

Topic: Orchard enemies-How to combat them, spraying, etc.

Sources of information.-Warren, pp. 229 and 230; Burkett, Stevens, and Hill, pp. 118-138; Duggar, pp. 258 and 259; Ferguson and Lewis, pp. 163–166, 364, and 365; Benson and Betts, pp. 208-216. Supplement the lesson with notes from F. B. Nos. 440 and 908. Procure in advance any available bulletins from your State agricultural college on the above topic.

Illustrative material.-Make collections of orchard enemies, place them in bottles and preserve for future use. Observe mixing of solutions for spraying. Likewise observe spraying instruments.

Class exercises.-The success of poisonous sprays for the destruction of insects and fungi of gardens and orchards is no longer in doubt. When these pests are not destroyed an entire failure in yield often results.

There are two classes of mixtures used for spraying. They are known as fungicides and insecticides. Bordeaux mixture is perhaps the most efficient fungicide in use. While this mixture is sometimes injurious to some fruits, it is highly recommended by many orchardists. Consult references for the formula for Bordeaux mixture. The lime-sulphur mixture, in addition to being an insecticide for certain plant insects, is also used as a fungicide serving the same purpose as Bordeaux mixture. Consult your references for the formula for this mixture.

168317°-20- 8

There are some very fundamental principles to consider before beginning to spray. One should know: (1) What he is spraying for. (2) Spraying should be done in time. (3) The work should be thoroughly done-that is, spray all parts of the tree. (4) If possible, let the wind help. Perhaps the best policy for one inexperienced in dealing with orchard pests to pursue is to secure the services of some orchard specialist and find out the trouble in the orchard. Such a man can very likely be secured from the agricultural college of your State.

Why is it important to know why we spray? Why should one spray thoroughly? When is the best time to spray? Should an inexperienced orchardist attempt to prepare his own spray mixture? What are some of the objections to the use of Bordeaux mixture? Describe the making of a mixture for fungicides; for insecticides.

Practical exercises.-Arrange for the class to visit an orchard where spraying is in progress. Let them ask questions and take notes on the equipment used and the sprays. Secure the cooperation of the owner of the orchard and your county agent. Require pupils to make written reports on the kind of spraying equipment used at their homes and the spray mixtures.

Project study outline.-(Growing a home orchard.) Part VI, orchard enemies; how to combat them.

1. How shall I control orchard pests?

2. What equipment will I need for spraying?

3. Can I make Bordeaux mixtures and lime-sulphur sprays and apply them so as to control fungus diseases?

4. Can I use lead arsenate and Paris green effectively in the control of insects?

5. What can I do to secure the cooperation of my neighbors in the control of orchard pests?

6. Shall I buy a spraying outfit or shall I hire my spraying done?

Subject: Crops.

LESSON 114.

Topic: Growing alfalfa-Preparing the seedbed; fertilizing and seeding. Sources of information.-Warren, pp. 32, 118, 126-128, and 190192; Burkett, Stevens, and Hill, pp. 288-290; Duggar, pp. 114 and 172; Ferguson and Lewis, pp. 301 and 302; Benson and Betts, pp. 138-141. Supplement the lesson with notes from F. B. No. 339.

Illustrative material.-Procure alfalfa plants for class observation and study. Observe with care the root system. If possible, observe implements used in seed-bed preparation, fertilizing machines, and seeders.

Class exercises.-The first things to consider before sowing alfalfa are: (1) Fertility, (2) moisture. Drainage is very important. Alfalfa will not live on wet land. The water table must be kept at

least from 2 to 4 feet below the surface. Alfalfa must have a fertile soil. The land should be plowed early, preferably in the fall. As soon as the land is dry in early spring begin to disk. The seed bed should be well pulverized, and a sufficient amount of moisture present to insure germination.

Soils to be seeded to alfalfa should be tested to see if they are acid or alkaline. The lack of lime is one of the principal reasons why alfalfa growth fails in many sections. The soil for alfalfa should be inoculated. The best method to use in inoculation is to secure soil from an old alfalfa field and apply in the new field. Two or three pounds per acre is usually sufficient. The soil should not be permitted to become dry before it is applied. Immediately after the application the land should be harrowed.

Alfalfa responds readily to barnyard manure. A treatment of manure before seeding has often proved very advantageous in securing a crop of alfalfa. Alfalfa has also responded well to an application of acid phosphate when applied at the rate of two or three hundred pounds per acre yearly. The amount of seed to use varies from 15 to 20 pounds, depending upon the purity of the seed. Under ordinary conditions the seed should be sown from one-half to 1 inch deep. The seed is sown by different types of seeders which are operated by hand. The spring sowing should be hastened as early as conditions will permit in order that the plants may develop a root system before hot weather.

Give the soil requirements of alfalfa; time requirements. Name some forms of fertilizers for alfalfa. How long does alfalfa live under certain conditions? How is alfalfa usually sown? What amount of seed is used per acre? What is inoculation? Give methods of inoculation.

Practical exercises.-Field observations of such cultural operations of alfalfa crop in progress at this time should be made. Let the pupils talk with leading farmers on alfalfa sowing, fertilizing, etc.

Shop practice.-Part II: Exercise XXIII, United States Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 527. Follow suggestion given under "Shop practice," lesson 112.

Subject: Crops.

LESSON 115.

Topic: Tobacco-Preparation of the soil; tobacco in rotation. Sources of information.-Duggar, pp. 14 and 61; Burkett, Stevens, and Hill, pp. 159-163, 331, and 333; Warren, pp. 413 and 415. Supplement the lesson with notes from F. B. Nos. 416, 523, 571, 595, and 846.

Illustrative material.-If practicable, make a collection of tobacco grown in the district. Contrast tobacco grown in rotation with that

grown continuously on the same soil. Observe soil preparation for tobacco.

Class exercises. It is highly desirable that tobacco soil should be thoroughly prepared several weeks before the plants are to be set in the field. The first plowing should be level or broadcast. Rows are opened about 3 feet apart, and the fertilizer is drilled in and mixed with the soil. A ridge is thrown immediately above the fertilizer. This ridge may be harrowed as low as desired before planting. The land should by all means be thoroughly harrowed, disked, and rolled in order to make a fine and firm seed bed.

Tobacco in rotation: The practice of rotation is neglected with tobacco as well as with other crops. The Virginia experiment station has worked out some rotations for different districts. For the dark and flue cured tobacco the following rotation is recommended: First year, tobacco; second year, wheat; third, fourth, and probably fifth, grass. Herd grass seems to be the preferred grass. For Kentucky and Tennessee, where clover will succeed, the following rotation is recommended: First year, tobacco; second year, wheat; and third year, red clover. Where a good quality of soil is planted to tobacco, it is considered advisable to sow the land to rye to be turned under in the spring in order that tobacco may be planted the following year. Give the preparation of the field for tobacco. Give the care of the seed bed after sowing the seed.

Practical exercises.-Study tobacco soils of the neighborhood. Name the principal varieties of tobacco grown in your State. In season, study growing tobacco plants. Visit tobacco-plant beds. Ascertain methods of keeping the beds.

Project study outline.—(Growing an acre or more of tobacco.) Part II, preparation of the soil; rotation.

1. How should tobacco land be prepared?

2. Is my land inclined to wash?

8. If so, should I plow my land in the fall or spring?

4. What are some advantages of fall plowing for tobacco?

5. What are some disadvantages of late spring plowing?

6. Should I have a system of rotation for tobacco?

7. What system shall I have?

Subject: Soil.

LESSON 116.

Topic: Preparing the seed bed.

Sources of information.-Benson and Betts, pp. 44 and 45; Fergu son and Lewis, pp. 43-47, 64-66, and 71-73; Duggar, pp. 70-73; Burkett, Stevens, and Hill, pp. 10-13; Warren, pp. 163–165. Supplement the lesson with notes from F. B. No. (537). Procure additional information from your college of agriculture with regard to this topic.