all returned to their respective abodes, and there was no other way of acquainting them with the supply that had arrived, except by sending an express to the different corners, or travelling myself around the coast. The latter mode I preferred, on various accounts, as I should thereby have it in my power to ascertain the actual wants of the people in a spiritual point of view; leave copies as specimens on passing along; visit the different sea-ports, to which copies of the Scriptures had been forwarded from Copenhagen, and make the necessary arrangements with the merchants and others for their circulation in the vicinity; and especially, as there was reason to hope, that, by the blessing of God on my conversation with such of the clergy as should fall in my way, I might be the humble instrument of stirring them up to greater diligence and zeal in the work of the Lord, by informing them of the present appearances with respect to religion abroad, the lively interest which Christians of all denominations take in its diffusion, and the energetic and successful means employed by them for that purpose. Their entire exclusion, by invincible local circumstances, from almost all access to the sources of religious intelligence, has a necessary tendency to engender a partial coldness and indifference about the common interests of the gospel, and to render this part of the vineyard of Christ which they occupy, frigid and barren as the island they inhabit. A visit from a stranger, especially one who travelled among them with the end I had in view, would, it was presumed, excite a more lively concern about the Holy Scriptures, and thus contribute to advance the cause of pure and undefiled religion.

My journey being therefore determined on, it now became a question, whether I ought to proceed directly across the desert and uninhabited tract in the interior, to the northern parts of the island, and then pursue my route along the coast, back to this place; or visit the coast first, and then return across the mountains. After consulting my friends, and maturely weighing the advantages and disadvantages of the different routes, I was induced to adopt the former,

chiefly from the consideration, that Captain Von Scheel, one of the Danish officers employed in surveying the coasts, was to proceed in that direction in the course of a few days, and that I would derive much valuable information and advice from him relative to a variety of subjects with which I was necessarily unacquainted. On my communicating my wishes to that gentleman, he very kindly expressed his happiness in having me for a companion, and we accordingly fixed on the 25th as the day of our departure.

The intermediate days were taken up in making the necessary preparations, and adopting certain measures for the circulation of the Scriptures in the southern districts during my absence. Travelling in Iceland is attended with much more trouble and difficulty than in any other part of Europe. Here there is neither coach nor curricle, cart nor waggon, for the conveyance of one's person and baggage. Every thing is carried on horseback. The first thing, therefore, that a traveller has to think of, is the procuring of horses, which he may either hire or purchase; but the latter mode is preferable, as in that case he has them more at his command; and it is also attended with less expense, especially if the journey be of any length. The common horses, called by the natives puls or klifiahestar, i. e. horses of burden, are at present sold for twenty-five or thirty shillings; and a good riding horse, (Icel. rid-hestr) costs upwards of five pounds sterling. They are in general from thirteen to fourteen hands high, strongly made, lively, persevering, and carry from sixteen to twenty stones weight, the distance of a Thingmannaleid,† every day. In breaking such as they design for the saddle, the natives make it their grand object to inure them to a short easy amble, at which many of them advance with almost incredible swiftness. As there are no inns on the island, the traveller must also provide himself with a tent, which is the more necessary

• Now Major, and Knight of the Dannebrog.

+ A Thingmannaleid is the distance the natives were accustomed to travel each day when they rode to the Althing, or General Assembly, and makes at an average twenty-five British miles.

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on account of the deserts he has sometimes to traverse, and even at the farms he will prefer it to the best accommodations that may be offered him. A good experienced Fylgimadr, or guide, is the next requisite, and, if the cavalcade be large, a Lestamadr to take care of the horses and baggage is equally necessary. Travelling chests must also be procured, together with provisions, and small money, with which to reward any trivial services that may be shewn by the peasants. For those who penetrate into the interior, a compass is indispensable, as they are apt to get bewildered in snowy or foggy weather; and if they do not keep in the proper direction, may easily wander into deserts, where both themselves and their horses must perish with hunger.

On the 24th, which was the Lord's day, I attended worship in the Cathedral. The service was begun by the Archdeacon, who had come to town on purpose to place a new minister. After finishing the liturgical service at the altar, he ascended the pulpit and pronounced a short prayer, and then read the gospel for the day, on which he also founded his discourse. As it was the first Icelandic sermon I had ever heard, it was not to be expected I should understand every word. Indeed, there were almost whole sentences, in which, to borrow the language of the Apostle, we were barbarians to one another; yet, having gained some knowledge of the Icelandic beforehand, and being acquainted with its kindred dialects, the Swedish and Danish, I could easily collect the scope and substance of his discourse, and, from its general tenor, do not hesitate to pronounce it strictly evangelical. Towards the close, he gave a summary view of the means by which the gospel has been propagated, from the time it began to be spoken by the Lord Jesus and his Apostles, down to the present day; and, by a noble prosopopœia, reminded Iceland of the rich share she had enjoyed of this blessing, and the responsibility she lay under for the use of her mercies. In particular, he called the attention of the inhabitants of Reykiavik to the privileges which had been bestowed upon them in this respect; but added, that it was a lamentable but notorious fact, that their degeneracy

seemed to keep pace with the excellence of the ministers that were sent to labour among them. He then proceeded to place the minister, which he did by simply stating his presentation by the King of Denmark, and exhorting both him and the congregation to the discharge of the duties they mutually owed each other. After sermon, the Rev. Arne Helgason, who had been presented to the living, went to the altar, and three females stepped forward and knelt, in order to receive the sacrament. The celebration of this rite commenced by the clergyman's chanting the Lord's prayer, and the words of the institution; after which, the choristers sung a sacramental hymn, and the communicants were served at the same time with the elements. Several short prayers were then repeated, to which responses were given by the choristers; and the service concluded with the singing of a psalm, and the enunciation of the levitical benediction.

The worship was well attended, and would have had a most solemn effect, had it not been for the crying of young children, who were allowed to remain, to the great annoyance of the congregation.

CHAP. II.

Leave Reykiavik for the North-Mode of Travelling-Mossfell Church-Skálabrecka-Mode of Salutation in Iceland -Hospitality-Description of Icelandic Tents-Dread ful Fissure of Almannagiá―Thingvalla Church-Seat of the Ancient Court of Justice-Tract of Lava-Fissure of Hrafnagia-Hot springs of Laugarvalla-The Geysers-Haukadal-Ari the Learned-Remarkable instance of Intelligence in a Girl-White River-White River Lake-Desert-Ice Mountains-Valley of Eyafiord— Group of Icelanders reading the New Testament-Factory of Akureyri-Want of Bibles, and anxiety to obtain them-Visit to the Sheriff at Kiarne-Female LibraryDomestic Worship.

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T an early hour on the morning of the 26th of July, I began to pack up my baggage, and make the final preparations for my departure to the north. The horses being caught, my servant proceeded to load them, which was accomplished in the following manner. Large square pieces of a thin fibrous turf were laid on the horses backs, above which was placed a kind of wooden saddle, called, in Icelandic, klifberi, that served the double purpose of keeping the turf together, and supporting the baggage, which was suspended on two wooden pegs, fixed one on each side of the saddle. The whole was fastened by means of two leathern thongs that went round the belly of the horse. Having partaken of an excellent breakfast at the Sysselmand's, we sent the baggage on before us; and, bidding adieu to our friends in Reykiavik, we set off about twelve o'clock, accompanied by Mr Edmund Hodgson, a gentleman from England, and Mr Vidalin, one of the Bishop's sons, who intended to proceed with us as far as the Geysers. Mr Knudsen also con