which, like "slammakin", would seem to imply a certain looseness! Aprons were originally only worn by the working classes or by ladies for preserving the front of their dress from stains while performing their household duties; but in the reign of William III. they seem to have been adopted as part of a lady's toilette in almost all circumstances, and were often richly decorated with lace, spangles or needlework or with little pictures painted or printed on satin, inserted in panels. In 1744 aprons reached to the hem of the petticoat: they then became shorter, more like the apron of a modern housemaid, but afterwards were worn long again. The Duchess of Queensbury's apron, which was torn off her by Beau Nash with such anger, saying it was "only fit for an abigail", was perhaps a plain white one, though, as it was said to be of great value, it was probably ornamented with the finest lace.

For outdoor wear, ladies had several kinds of cloaks.

Capuchins", at first called "cardinals", were hooded cloaks like those worn by friars, and a " Brunswick " was a stiffer arrangement with lappels and a man's collar. It was probably a sort of " capuchin ", under cover of which Lord Nithisdale escaped from the Tower in the aftermath of the '45, for it was certainly hooded; but, whatever it was, the name "Nithisdale "stuck to the hood of this kind of garment for many years, and the word is to be found in the Century Dictionary (a dictionary of the American language) with a drawing of the hood itself.

Ladies of quality made a brave show on their travels when they could afford it. Lady Mary Coke's travelling dress of pea-green and silver attracted much attention on the continent-which was perhaps exactly what was intended. She was what Herrick

had once called a tempestuous petticoat". Peagreen must have been a very popular colour, for Mistress Winifred Jenkins, waiting-woman to the Brambles, wore "a plain pea-green tabby sack" when on her travels.

5

What is so elegantly called "footwear" by the Americanised public of to-day was a very important item in the expenses of a person of quality in the eighteenth century. They were often highly ornamented with lace, rich embroidery and needlework, or set off by jewelled buckles. The heels were worn high for the greater part of the century, coloured heels being very fashionable. A writer in the Lady's Magazine in 1776 says that flat heels were introduced about that time (perhaps it was only for a time) simultaneously with a rage for plain dresses, simple caps and a forced simplicity, when ladies would go so far as to attire themselves as milkmaids or shepherdesses, crook and all; yet it does not seem that they ever forgot the diamonds and gold-headed canes such as could not have been possessed by Phyllis or Chloe.

Shoes were, however, looked upon as a snare and as being a proof of extreme worldliness, if nothing more, when very highly decorated. The great Isaac Bickerstaffe, early in the century, issued the following amusing proclamation :

The Censor having observed that there are wrought ladies' shoes and slippers put out to view at a great shoemaker's shop towards St. James's end of Pall-Mall, which create irregular thoughts and desires in the youth of this realm: the said shop

The English language is fast being spoilt by the affectations of America. "Footwear" and "shirt-waist" are bad enough as substitutes for boots and shoes and blouses, and there are other blots which will occur to every lover of English undefiled. We may be thankful that up to now we have been spared "casket" and "cuspidor" for "coffin" and "spittoon".

keeper is required to take in those eyesores or show cause the next Court day why he continues to expose the same: and he is required to be prepared particularly to answer for the slippers with green lace and blue heels.

The youth who could be seized with improper desire at the sight of a slipper with green lace and blue heels, must have been more susceptible than the youth of the present day. An advertisement of a shoemaker, temp. George I., shows the kind of " footwear " worn in the early decades of the century. He boldly states that he "makes and sells all sorts of boots, shoes, slippers, spatterdashes (i.e. gaiters), double and single channelled pumps, rich quilted shoes, clogs and turned pumps of the neatest work and genteelest fashion".

But it was in the decoration of the head that the lady of that time differed so much from all who have preceded or followed her. There were hoops before, and crinolines after the time of the Georges; highheeled shoes have been known before and since; cloaks and hoods have not varied very much. But it may be safely asserted that anything like the head-gear of the eighteenth century had never been seen before, and will never be seen again.

In the days of William and Mary the tall head-dress was called a "commode", and has been defined as a frame of wire two or three stories high, fitted for the head, and covered with tiffany or other thin silks ". Some authorities say it was also called a "Fontange' from Mlle. de Fontange, the mistress of Louis XIV., who is said to have invented it; but, according to the Dictionnaire de l'académie, a Fontange was the knot of ribbons on the coiffure itself. The structure did not differ very much (except in the actual form, for it was always shaped like a tower) from that curious head-gear