THE SACRED

SACRED CITY

OF THE

ETHIOPIANS

CHAPTER I

ARRIVAL IN ETHIOPIA

OUR object in visiting Abyssinia was primarily archæological—to study what is left of Aksum, the ancient capital of Ethiopia, and still the centre of religious feeling throughout the realms of the Ethiopian emperor. We had, however, several objects of subsidiary interest in view; a study of the Abyssinian people themselves, their quaint Christianity, their customs, and their surroundings, would naturally be to us of deep interest; then, again, in the coming partition of Africa, Abyssinia will naturally play an important part. To what European power will the ancient empire of Ethiopia eventually belong? Will the Italians succeed in extending the firm footing they have gained on the Red Sea ? or will the French put in a claim from the side of

B

Obock? Problems such as these are of the highest interest for those of us who try to live in the future as well as the past.

The difficulty which was to follow us during the whole of our Abyssinian tour confronted us before even we set foot on shore at Massowah. Whilst on the steamer we heard that hostilities had broken out again between the two rival chiefs in Tigrè, the district which we wished to visit, and that for the present the country was closed to Europeans. The Italian governor, Colonel Barattiere, paid us a visit on board, and with him we seriously discussed the advisability of abandoning altogether our prospective journey; but he advised us to adhere to our plans to spend a few weeks in the Italian colony, which includes the Abyssinian districts of Hamasen and Okule Kasai, where Abyssinian life and character could be studied with quite as much profit, and infinitely more safety, than in the realms of King Menelek; and then, if matters in Tigrè took a more favourable turn, we could proceed to cross the frontier to Adoua and Aksum, the goal of our desires.

This struggle between Ras Alula and Ras Mangashah for the lordship of Tigrè will have to be frequently alluded to in these pages; consequently, it will be as well to explain in a few words the condition. of Abyssinian politics which has led to this dispute. During the reign of the Emperor John, whom our expedition of 1868 placed on the Abyssinian throne, Alula, a man of no royal birth, but great ambition, made himself conspicuous for his bravery and his

victories; he conquered the Dervishes who threatened Abyssinia on the north; he fought hard against the Italian occupation of the northern portion of the country; he was cruel and treacherous, but, being brave and successful, was beloved by all.

During the lifetime of the Emperor John, Alula was Viceroy of Tigrè, and obtained the rank of Ras, or prince, though he was never crowned king. The Emperor Menelek II., however, when he succeeded

to the empire, was jealous of the almost independent power possessed by this Ras; he summoned him to resign, and appointed Ras Mangashah, a son of the Emperor John, as his successor as Viceroy of Tigrè, and intended eventually to bestow on him the vacant crown. Naturally, Alula resented the appointment of a much younger man over him, and, feeling himself strong in the number of his friends, at once took up arms, retired to his mountain in Tembien, and

was prepared to offer every resistance to the usurpation of his power. The Italians, of course, sided with the nominee of the Emperor Menelek against their old enemy, Ras Alula. This naturally introduced a new element into Abyssinian politics. The pages of Abyssinian history are full of struggles similar to that which is now going on between Ras Alula and Ras Mangashah, but this is the first time that a European power has had anything to say to them, and the results will be interesting. Unfortunately, Italy is not strong enough or rich enough to put her foot down and dictate terms; if she were, there could be no question about the ultimate submission of Abyssinia to Italian rule. She has spent an enormous sum of money and many lives in the consolidation of her power in the provinces allotted to her, and as at present there are no tangible returns for this outlay the home government is naturally chary of interfering in the present crisis.

Such was the state of Abyssinian politics when we landed on January 2, 1893, at Massowah.

The Italians are fond of comparing Massowah to Venice, and hope to make her ere long the Queen of the Red Sea. The town is built on three coral islets close to the mainland, Massowah, Taulud, and Sheikh Seid. During late years a considerable number of Italian buildings have arisen amongst the ruins of the Egyptian occupation; the white Egyptian palace, built by the unfortunate Arakel Pasha, who fell at Gudda Guddi, fighting against the Abyssinians on December 16, 1875, is now the residence of the

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too

Italian governor; adjoining it is a very pretty military club with an open-air theatre; water surrounds. you on every side, and steamy, enervating heat makes life a burden to those who have just come from more bracing climes; yet, strange to say, Massowah is by no means unhealthy; fevers are rare; bugs, fleas, and other vermin-alas! common on the high plateau-are unknown here; there is no vegetation to decay and cause malaria, and doubtless the steamy atmosphere is greatly impregnated with salt, which acts as an antiseptic to germs which would otherwise produce epidemics. The only difficulty with which the Italian officers have to contend is debility and anæmia, which is at once removed by a residence of a few weeks on the high plateau, or a few months' leave in Europe; in fact, they say that Massowah is healthier than many of their military stations at home.

If Massowah is infinitely inferior to Venice in its internal appearance, it is infinitely more beautiful in its surroundings. The mighty Abyssinian mountains approach quite close to the coast-line at this point, and form a stupendous and lovely background to the little town; quaint Arab dhows are moored to its quays; half-naked natives from all sorts and conditions of tribes from the interior give an air of wildness to its narrow streets and dirty bazaars and naturally excite the interest of those about to proceed inland. The sea, as seen from the causeway which joins the island of Massowah to that of Taulud, is alive with small fish of rare forms and colours,