436

JAGLINSKY-PEASANTRY-SYNAGOGUE.

Oh

unresisting quietness! The priest was a respectable-looking man, much above his parishioners in point of culture. that God would raise up another Martin Boos in this region of gross darkness, to proclaim the glad tidings of righteousness by the obedience of One!

We spent the forenoon together in the study of the Scriptures and social prayer, and about sunset resolved to visit the Jews, who met that evening to celebrate "the Joy of the Law," (min-nnpy, simhath torah). It was the commencement of that day which is called in John, “ the last day, that great day of the feast." We prayed that we might have an opportunity of proclaiming to them the words of Jesus, "If any man thirst, let him come to me and drink," and our desire was granted. On our way through the village we noticed that the peasants took off their hats a long way before they met us,-not, however, with the cheerful air of a free-born Briton, but with a sullen servile look, the result of well-remembered oppression; for the Polish Barons used to keep the peasantry in real slavery, and the want of a middle class in Poland who might link rich and poor together, ha perpetuated the system. Passing the cottage where the marriage had been in the morning, we saw a large company on the green before the door, dancing to the sound of the violin and tabret. They have no joys but those of earth, and the Sabbath is their chief day of gaiety and mirth.

66

The Jews have three synagogues here, the best of which is a high and spacious building. On asking a Jewish boy if the building before us was the synagogue of the Chasidim, he replied, No, it is the synagogue of the prostakis," that is, "the common people." He used the word as a term of reproach; for the spirit of the old Pharisees remains in the heart of Israel, and they say still, "Stand by thyself, come not near to me, for I am holier than thou."2 Entering the large synagogue, we got into conversation with several Jews, while the congregation was assembling. We spoke to then. of the way of a sinner's pardon; and on our saying that their Cipporah3 was the only remnant they had of sacrifice, one of them replied, "That they did not offer the cock and hen as a sacrifice, for prayer now stood in the place of ali sacrifices." How truly are Israel abiding "without a sacri

1 John VII. 37.

2 Isa. LXV. 5

3 See p. 404.

CONVERSATION WITH JEWS.

437

fice," when the only appearance of a sacrifice that anywhere meets the eye, in the thousand ceremonies of Judaism, is totally disclaimed as such by themselves? We spoke on Isaiah LIII, and the office of Messiah "to give repentance to Israel and remission of sins." Several were attracted to us when they heard us speak of having seen Jerusalem, and of our love to the house of Israel. When we told them that in Scotland, true Christians keep the Christian Sabbath as strictly as the Jews do theirs, never travelling nor doing any work, but reading the Bible, and worshipping God in public and private, they were astonished, and at first did not seem to believe it. At length one of them made his way round to the spot where Mr Calman was speaking in the midst of another group, and put the question to him if it were really so? The man came back and told his brethren that it was true, and all seemed greatly pleased. Some boys read to us a portion of the Law, beginning, "Thou shalt love the Lord thy God," which started another conversation; and when we hesitated not to use the words, "Hear, O Israel, the Lord thy God is one Lord," telling them of our belief in the ONE God, His wondrous nature, and His becoming incarnate, they stood listening with great attention, and one asked, "Were you born Christians?" On leaving them, we went to the synagogue of the Chasidim. There we were kindly brought forward to a convenient place for seeing the procession in honour of the law, which was about to take place. Several Jews were very friendly, and anxious to hear about Jerusalem. One began to speak of the oppression of their nation, which is felt here in the taxes laid on meat and lights, for they pay nearly half a zwanzig for a candle,—a heavy burden on them who use so many every week.2 We told them how different was the feeling toward Israel in our country: for true Chris tians in Scotland and England loved the Jews, and Messiah enjoined us to bear a special love to them. We then read together some of their prayers, which they asked us to translate into German. After this, we had an opportunity of telling how Jesus, at the very feast which they were celebrating, stood in the Temple and invited sinners to come to him.

At length, the service began. The room by this time was

: Hos. III. 4.

2 These taxes imposed peculiarly on Israel reminded us of Lam. v. 4, 5, "We have drunken our water for money; our wood is sold unto us. Our necks are under persecution; we labour, and have no rest."

438

JAGLINSKY-" PROCESSION OF THE LAW."

crowded to excess; and the glare and heat of the large candles became very unpleasant. After a short prayer, the persons were called up who were to engage in the procession, to each of whom was entrusted a roll of the Law, which he carried in his arms. They are called up according to the alphabetical order of their names, he who presides using these words as he names each, niin (ten kavod letorah), “Give honour to the Law." The first company being thus called up and arranged, and all the copies of the Torah in the ark being placed in their hands, the old rabbi began the dance.

991

The signal for commencing was given (somewhat profanely) in the words of Exodus, "Speak unto the children of Israel that they go forward." Immediately they began to move slowly round the synagogue, all present chanting a prayer. Soon the singing became louder, and the movements of the worshippers more rapid. They clapped their hands, shouted, and finally danced with all their might, dandling the roll of the Law in their arms. The old grey-haired rabbi danced with the most vehement gestures, while all sung, leaped, and clapped their hands, till the whole synagogue was one scene of indescribable confusion. When one company had danced till they were weary, others were called up to form a second.

INTERVIEW WITH THE RABBI.

439

until all the members of the synagogue had shared in it. Such is a specimen of " the procession of the Law" PA in, tekuphath Torah), intended to give honour to the Word of the Living God. But the chief joy is reserved for the morrow. 66 What a caricature is this on David's dancing before the Lord with all his might !" and what a contrast to David's calm delight in the word of God, "O how love I thy law, it is my meditation all the day." A religious service more silly or childish could scarcely be imagined. We were again reminded of the sure word of prophecy, “I will give children to be their princes, and babes shall rule over them."1

When all was over, the rabbi sent to say that he wished to speak with us. We accordingly went to his house," which joined hard to the synagogue," and which was immediately filled to overflow with Jews, all intensely anxious to see the Christians who had been at Jerusalem, and were interested in their welfare. When we had answered several questions as to the condition of their brethren in Palestine, Mr Calman seized the valuable opportunity, and beginning with a reference to the principles of the Chasidim, who profess to do every thing out of pure, disinterested love to God, shewed them with much affection, what Jehovah had done to awaken our love toward himself in the great gift of his beloved Son. We then parted from them in a most friendly manner, and returned to our inn. How affecting is such a visit to Israel! "The priests said not, Where is the Lord? and they that handle the law knew me not." Soon may a better day dawn on Zion, when the promise shall be realized, "I will give you pastors according to mine heart, which shall feed you with knowledge and understanding "

(Sept. 30.) Leaving our pleasant hartsmi, we swept through the vale and village of Jaglinsky. The morning was clear and fine, but much colder than we had yet experienced. We travelled due north through a vast plain country, where all the crops had been gathered in except the retsky. highway was straight as a railroad, so that we could see be-fore us for several miles—a dreary prospect to a traveller on foot.

The

We came down upon the large but dull village of Zadcow, where our attention was attracted by a church-yard

140

JAGLINSKY TO TARNAPOL-SCENERY.

planted with black crosses as thickly as a grove, and by a large cross at the entrance ornamented with human skulls and bones. Indeed, it is not uncommon in Poland to see the crosses decorated with human skulls and bones, in order that they may more deeply affect the poor blinded worshippers. Here it was discovered that one of our horses needed a shoe, and as the Polish smith proved to be slow at the use of the hammer, we had opportunity to wander about the place. The Eruv and the booths at many cottage-doors, informed us that some of the seed of Abraham had found a refuge here; and we spoke to two or three on the road, who told us that there are 300 Jewish families in this place. All the peasants, and even the women, wore sheepskin, to keep out the keen north wind.

We travelled on through some fine woods of elm, oak, ash, and most of all birch. The villages on the wayside are at wide intervals from each other, yet all of the same character, tame and uninteresting. The churches are often picturesque, especially the old wooden ones: the belfry, too, is peculiar, being generally a building distinct from the church, or sometimes an archway over the entrance to the church-yard. Yet these bring no sweet associations of a preached gospel and holy communion seasons.

The next large village was Copochinsky, clean and thriving, with its church, crosses, and images. One image especially attracted our attention, standing in a shed in the market-place, the uncouth figure of a friar carrying the child Jesus in his arms. After this we passed two very poor villages, the first of which appeared to be altogether Jewish.

The country now became bare indeed, though all under cultivation, till we came down upon Trembowla, a pleasant town on the banks of the Seret, having the ruins of an old castle overhanging it, and a square fortress at some distance. It has two very handsome churches and one of the large high Polish synagogues, built of wood, but going rapidly to decay. We met several Jews, who told us that there are 1500 of their brethren here, and that their synagogue is 120 years old. They listened to us when we testified of Messiah's atonement for sin.

North of Trembowla the country began to improve. We entered a fine valley, watered by the same stream which runs through the town. The fields on either side were fruitful, and almost entirely covered with hemp. At the upper end