gestive criticism at the hands of equals and compatriots little or none at all.

The questions of social status and precedence do not affect the traveller, however, though if he be of an observant mind they may amuse him. What does affect him are the hide-bound Cyprian regulations. One I have mentioned, and its inconveniences-that having to do with revolvers but it is as nothing compared to those which overtake the individual who ventures to come to Cyprus armed with a fowling-piece in the hope of shooting duck or woodcock. I, unfortunate, had sent mine on, and finding it awaiting me at the custom-house at Limasol, suggested that I might take it away. Thereon I was informed very politely that I must comply with a few formalities. First, it proved imperative that I should obtain from the Government at Nicosia a certificate that I was a fit and proper person to be allowed to carry so dangerous a weapon as a shot-gun. Secondly, a value must be set upon the said gun which must be approved. Thirdly, the fourth part of the value thus ascertained must be paid over in cash to the custom-house officer, who, on the owner quitting the island within a certain period of time and satisfying him that he had not disposed of the gun, would repay three-quarters of the total amount so deposited, the Government retaining the rest for its trouble. Fourthly, a game-licence must be taken out. This I think an excellent regulation.

It can easily be imagined that by the time I had written the necessary letters, signed the necessary documents, paid the necessary deposit and interviewed the necessary number of officers, I wished almost that I had thrown my gun into the sea before I was foolish enough to bring it to Cyprus. Even now when the trouble is done with, I venture to ask whether all these formalities are really needful in the case of a person known to be a boná-fide traveller who proposes to tarry

for a few weeks only in the land? The same question might be asked of other Cyprian regulations and of their method of enforcement.

A more serious matter, as I myself experienced, for which indeed the Government is not responsible, although I think it might take action to prevent the inconvenience, is connected with the Turkish telegraph line which purports to deliver messages in Cyprus. What happens, and has happened perpetually for the last year or so since the cable was hopelessly broken, and intermittently before that time, is that a message taken by the Turkish line, without warning or other enlightenment to the sender in whatever part of the world he may be, passes over their wires to Port Said or Beyrout, where it is left to lie until a ship is sailing. Thence it is sent on by post and re-telegraphed from Larnaca to its address by the Eastern Telegraph Company, for which service is charged a fee of one and ninepence.

In my case I despatched a cable to Italy, by the Eastern Telegraph Company, to which I had previously arranged to receive an immediate reply. No answer came and I grew anxious. Days passed and finally the reply did come, a week late, having been forwarded by post from Port Said! My hostess informed me that within a single year the same thing had happened no less than thrice to people staying in her house. For a specimen result I quote an instance that occurred just before I arrived. The father of a lady who was staying with a friend in the island, died in England, and the sad news was at once telegraphed to her. This message was sent by the Turkish wires, with the shocking result that the person concerned first learned of her bereavement through a casual perusal of the advertisement columns of the Times. The cable itself was delivered a day or two later than the newspaper.

It would seem that the Government might move to put a stop to this constant and intolerable scandal of a telegraph line accepting and being paid for messages which it has neither the intention nor the means of delivering. I am informed, however, that it does not do so because such action might raise "a political question and give offence to the Turks. If I were in a position of authority I think that I should take the risk of that offence and of the use of a little plain language.

"

Still notwithstanding these and other drawbacks, unavoidable perhaps in a country soaked with oriental traditions, Cyprus is in many ways a most delightful spot, and it is remarkable that more English people do not live there, at least for the winter season. Actual residence in the island to all but those inured to heat, involves a three months' stay in summer under canvas or in huts on the mountain heights of Trooidos, whither the officials move annually from Nicosia. This is a sojourn that must become monotonous in spite of the delightful air and scenery of the pine forests, since lawn-tennis parties and picnics, where the guests are continually the same, will pall at last on all except the youngest and most enthusiastic. For the other nine months of the year, or most of them, the climate is pleasant and healthy.

I know that in the last respect, it has a different reputation; arising I believe from the fact, that when it was first acquired from the Turks, some regiments of debilitated troops were sent from Egypt to recover health in Cyprus. Those in authority proceeded to secure this object through the great heats of summer by setting them down in overcrowded tents upon an undrained marsh, where they sickened and died in considerable numbers. Also in old days the island's reputation for wholesomeness was of the most evil.

I have discovered many references to this in the course