other covering for the floor, the windows with broken panes of glass, the chairs and tables dirty, the chambers crowded with ten or a dozen beds having no curtains; these are the common characteristics. In the more frequented roads, the accommodations are of course better; and in many places so good, that the complainer of them is unreasonable, proving himself to be of a discontented, grumbling disposition. In the principal cities, the accommodations are equal to those to be found in our commercial towns: though there are no taverns in America furnished in the splendid style of the hotels of Bath, Edinburgh and Brighton. Such establishments could not at present succeed.

The usual reception the traveller finds at the inns, is that of cold civility; but the landlord and the waiter, though not obsequious, are generally sufficiently attentive. Some things in country places a little discomposed me at first, but resolving to act on the adage of doing at Rome as Rome does, and not suffer trifles to fret me, I found that I soon lost the sense of uneasiness. At Schenectady I requested to have a jug of water in my bed-room, but after waiting for some time and not receiving it, I resolved to get it for myself. The bar-keeper stared at me

with some surprize, for which I knew not how to account; but I afterwards observed that stage-coach passengers were expected to wash below. In small villages, this is the common practice; and I had sometimes to wipe on a towel which perhaps a dozen persons had used before me. Complaint would probably have been taken in ill part. I should have been considered troublesome, and perhaps told that if dissatisfied, I might look for other quarters. As to the beds, a point of great consequence to a traveller, I found it best not to be too particular. In several places, I had only one sheet, in others the sheets appeared to have been slept in several times since washing. But the worst is, that in many places several beds are placed in one room, and without regard to the feelings of the guests, or in any way consulting their desires, they are shown to them indiscriminately. At a tavern in North Carolina, I was shown to a bed into which a young man was about to enter, though no enquiry had been made of me if I had any objection to a bedfellow. I recognized him as a journeyman carpenter who was at work on the premises, a decently dressed, clean young fellow; but as I knew nothing of him, I was determined to sit up all night rather than share the bed with him. It had not entered their heads that I

should object! however, on enquiring if I could not be accommodated with a bed to myself, they managed, after manifesting some surprise, to let me have one. I made my request in as polite a manner as possible, considering that if I affronted either the journeyman or the host, I might have to regret my presumption. At Rochester in New York, having occasion to remain several days, I secured a room with only one bed in it to myself, when lo! on retiring one night, I found my bed preoccupied. I had learnt enough of American inns to know the trouble I should fall into by making much complaint; accordingly, on an apology being made, I took another in a triple-bedded room without enquiry as to the occupants of the other two beds. Seldom is a bed room door fitted up with either lock or bolt; however, I felt no fear, and never lost any thing. Notwithstanding what I have stated, I can truly say, that in by far the greater number of the inns I stopped at, I found comfort, civility and attention. But then I endeavoured to give as little trouble as possible, and make myself familiar with the family of the house, the proper plan for a traveller in a foreign land. Good temper may be sometimes requisite indeed without it, no person should think of leaving his native country; with it, he

may proceed easily notwithstanding occasional causes of irritation, as a steam-boat preserves its steadiness against both wind and tide.

As to meals, ordinaries are common every where. The landlord's wife or daughter generally presides at the breakfast table, but not so commonly at the dinner table. The supply of provisions at both of them is almost universally plentiful; in large towns quite luxurious. Decanters of brandy and whiskey are placed on the table. It is usual to pour a very small quantity into a glass, diluting it with water till it is quite weak. This is the most common beverage. Beer has become of late years a favourite drink, but in some parts of Virginia it is not to be obtained either in draught or bottled. Cyder of excellent quality is as common as in Normandy. Peachbrandy and apple-brandy are much used in some districts, and when properly diluted are palatable and wholesome. The dinner ordinary has almost every thing to recommend it except conversation, which according to American notions is unnecessary to the enjoyment of dinner; so completely sensual are they at that meal. The bell rings. A rush ensues. The table is surrounded by guests who devour rather than eat what is before them, as if business were so ur

gent, that not a moment was to be lost. Each one rises as he finishes, and without waiting for the rest of the company, leaves the table with a precipitation as if he feared an infection. I used often to be the last to rise, not being able to eat so ravenously as is common.

Besides the public taverns, there are in many parts what are called houses of private entertainment, being houses where the traveller, who has no objection to take his meals with the family, and conform in every respect to their habits, may find himself comfortable. To a pedestrian like myself, they are very acceptable. One of the best houses that I stopped at in the whole country was of this description. It was in the heart of Virginia, and so remote from any town, that I little expected in such a situation to find a house elegantly furnished. It being dark when I entered, the sun having set about an hour, and I a humble pedestrian, I was fearful I might find some difficulty in removing any suspicions which might arise from the visit of a solitary traveller at such an hour. But when I inquired if I could have a night's lodging, no difficulties were started. My host soon began to inquire where I was from, and on my telling him I was an Englishman, he spoke with so