Page images
PDF
EPUB

It is the piper methysticum of botany, and is usually culti vated, the plants found here being escapes. There are several species common to islands of the South Seas, and bundles of roots may be seen at the wharves, bound for some special port. The liquor is made by a process of mastication. A group of men and women, after being supplied each with a cud of awa root, squat on the ground about a common calabash, and begin to chew vigorously. The aromatic plant produces a free flow of saliva, which from time to time is ejected into the bowl. You have seen the same sort of an entertainment in some Western hotel. When the liquor is properly fermented it serves as a beverage. Robert Louis Stevenson is said to have been very fond of this drink. Its effects are baneful, the victims becoming blear-eyed and affected with a peculiar furfuraceous skin. While under the influence of the stimulant, one is said to be as full of pleasant dreams as an absinthe habitué. When harmless plants are turned to such bad account, it is no wonder that good men's best intentions should be turned by, others into evil use. Certainly, in Iao " only man is vile." We found a pebbly little island in the middle of the stream, and occupied it for our dinner. When we had eaten, we each took our alligator-pear seeds and planted them, like true Klubbers that we were. The Quorum decided that the seeds of fruit eaten by picnicking members should be planted with due care.

Far up in the direction of the "Black Gorge" there is a cave, known to be the burial-place of kings and chiefs. The Bostonian took out her note-book and read aloud: "The remains of many ancient kings are deposited in a cave in Iao Valley, at the head of the Wailuku River."

Now the sun had reached the clouds of the arctic sea, flooding them with light, tinting here an ice peak, and there one, leaving spaces of frozen white and spaces of blue water; a sight better left to the imagination for detail. We had only to turn around to see it.

At last the sun went down and the air grew colder, so we walked slowly to our house, where Kaleiiwi had a good fire on the hearth. We had barely reached the house when the Judge called us back to the brim. The clouds were going out, he said. It was light yet, and when we came to the edge the whole view burst upon us-this great mountain hollowed out by this great chasın, in a way to cause wonderment without end.

You are perched up on the top of a mass of volcanic débris, 10,000 feet high, 90 miles in circumference at the base, and sit looking down into a bowl 2,000 feet deep, occupying the center of the mass. The walls rise, jagged, ragged rocks of gray, precipitous, unequal, extending triangularly for twenty miles. You see a point across from you, three miles away, and they tell you that it is seven and a half miles from one wall yonder to this, nineteen square miles of surface, 12,160 acres of cinders and space. In the bottom of this hole you notice a series of hills, truncated and having basins, sixteen of them ranging from 100 feet to 900 feet high, colored red, brown, black, and velvety black. There to the northeast is a break in the side of this great thing, Koolau Gap; and out through there broke the hot lava to the sea, while in the southwest another gap called Kaupo has satisfied the extraordinary demands of the crater. These gaps are now grown up to trees and bushes, and one of them is said to be a good valley for the cultivation of coffee. From a higher point of the rim, somewhat to our right, it is 720 feet to the floor. What appear to be shrubs two or three feet high are forests of trees said to be as tall as any on Maui.

There are a number of caves in the crater, and travelers have used some of them for shelter and lodging. Water is found in one of them. There is also a "bottomless pit," dark and gruesome. Sounding lines dropped down probably strike ledges, and so reach interminable lengths. Some such ledge shelves the most of our mysteries. The pit may not be deep, but its edges crumble and will not bear inspec

tion. Otherwise there is not much of interest here, except, of course, the presence of the crater, whose immensity makes itself almost palpable. There is a trail down into the crater, beginning about three miles from the guest-house. It is gradual, but tedious, especially to retrace in the sun. think that most persons are surprised to find such abrupt sides to the crater; in many places one fears to look over.

Nearly all available stones have been rolled down, but we found one or two that we sent crashing down into the abyss. A young man wrote home and told his parents how he had amused himself rolling rocks into the crater, when his thoughtful old mother wrote back advising him to be careful, as he might hurt some person by his carelessness.

We could see Hawaii across the space, but in a rather misty way. It was now very cold, the stars shone bright and clear, and clouds began to creep into the crater through Koolau Gap. We hurried to the house, having forgotten all about supper, which we soon cooked and ate. In the meantime Kaleiiwi made a good fire, tied and fed the horses, now shivering outside, and came in saying that everything was maikai. He was a jolly fellow, moving around the room in a half dance, and striking his thighs with an exuberance of spirits quite unusual in the tropics.

Craigie Lea," the Scotchy name of the only house on top, is but a few feet from the brim, where an opening in the rocks allows the visitor to step to the very edge. It is a oneroom house, built of stone, with prison-like windows and a corrugated iron roof. Within are a good floor, fireplace, barrel for water, table, cupboard, cooking utensils, and about a dozen cots. The place was built by residents of the island for the use of the public. There is a guest-book, too, a record of various things by visitors to the crater. It contains an interesting history of the building and house-warming, written by "C. H. D."; accounts of experiences and sensations, with verses and jokes enough to fill an evening. Dr. Poking had been here. He said that the wind blew in

under the eaves, and the fireplace smoked. Mr. Musk stated that he got up in time to see the sunrise. We came to an item: "Last night Sunflower chewed his rope off and went home, Dr. Cooper having to walk back to Olinda." Sunflower was the very horse now tied outside, so we went at once to see, and found that he had nearly cut his rope by the same old habit of chewing. We hobbled him and made

[graphic][merged small]

him sure. Is this the first real service a musty record has rendered?

We finished by writing in the book ourselves: "We reached here wound up for enthusiastic explosion, and went off duly in true American style, at sunset and sunrise, July 29th and 30th. Our adjectives floated off across the vast expanse and joined the clouds; hence our inability to record them here. One had the audacity to say that the crater reminded him of the subject of theology, because the longer

you looked into it the less you knew about it. The poetical member of the party, on seeing the crater, utterly collapsed, and was unable to transcribe the ponderous thought that made brandy and water necessary. We thank the builders of Haleakela and Craigie Lea for their favors rendered." The Judge said it was time to re-tire, which, being inter

[graphic][subsumed][merged small]

preted, meant to be tired over again. The meaning became more significant before morning.

Kaleiiwi slept due southeast and northwest, across the front of the hearth, keeping up a roaring fire. The Junior Partner came next with her feet to the fire. The Judge lay near the eastern wall, while Mr. Stamford and the Assessor

« PreviousContinue »