penses?' Upon our return home, it was a very pleasant transition from the divan and pipes to the caique on the perfectly smooth Bosphorus, under the still sky, with all the minarets of the wide city around illuminated for the Ramazan, and a military band playing under one of the Sultan's kiosks or pavilions."—pp. 43–46.

The visit to St. Sophia is well described, and the reflections with which it closes are natural and suggestive.

sus.

How

"We then went to St. Sophia. This is the real sight of Constantinople, the point round which so much of history, so much of regret, so much of anticipation, ever centre. Within that precinct Constantine, Theodosius, Justinian, worshipped, and Chrysostom preached, and, most affecting reminiscence of all, the last Constantine received the Christian sacrament upon the night that preceded his own heroic death, the capture of the imperial city, and the conquest of the Crescent over the Cross. Apart even from all associated interest, I was profoundly struck with the general appearance and effect of the building itself, the bold simplicity of plan,—the noble span of the wide, low cupola, measuring, in its diameter, 115 feet, the gilded roofs, the mines of marble which encrust the walls; — that porphyry was from the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec, that verde-antique was from the Temple of Diana at Ephemany different strains have they not echoed? The hymn to the Latoida! The chant to the Virgin! The Muezzin's call from the minaret! Yes; and how long shall that call continue? Are the lines marked along the pavement, and seats, and pulpits, always to retain their distorted position, because they must not front the original place of the Christian high-altar to the East, but must be turned in the exact direction of Mecca? Must we always dimly trace in the overlaying fretwork of gold the obliterated features of the Redeemer? This is all assuredly forbidden by copious and cogent, even if by conflicting causes, by old Greek memories, by young Greek aspirations, by the ambition of states and sovereigns, by the sympathy of Christendom, by the sure word of prophecy. One reflection presents itself to retard, if not to damp, the impatience which it is impossible not to feel within these august and storied walls. If politicians find that the great objection to the dissolution of the Turkish empire is the difficulty of finding its substitute, does not something of the same difficulty present itself to the ardor of Christian zeal? Amidst all the imposture, the fanaticism, the sensuality of the Mahometan faith, still, as far as its ordinary outward forms of worship meet the eye, it wears a striking appearance of simplicity: you see in their mosques many worshippers engaged in solitary prayer; you see attentive circles sitting round the

teacher or Imaun, who is engaged in reading or expounding the Koran; but there is an almost entire absence of what we have heard termed the histrionic methods of worship. Now, it is difficult to take one's stand under the massive cupola of St. Sophia, without, in fancy, seeing the great portals thrown open, and the long procession of priests advance, with mitre, and banner, and crucifix, and clouds of incense, and blaze of torches, and bursts of harmony, and lustral sprinklings, and low prostrations. It may not, however, be unattainable in the righteous providence of God, that when Christianity re-establishes her own domain here, it shall be with the blessed accompaniments of a purer ritual and more spiritual worship."- pp. 53-56.

Lord

The passage on Trojan topography is excellent. Carlisle looks at the scene with the eye of the poet and scholar, and feels the reality of at least the framework of nature, in which the pictures of the Iliad are set. We think the more scholars study the Homeric poems on the spots where the scene of the action is laid, the more they will be convinced that they have a substratum of truth; and, we will add, the more they will be satisfied that one transcendent poet was the author of the Iliad and Odyssey. Critical scepticism is disarmed in the presence of the vivid nature which poured its inspiration three thousand years ago into the heart of the Ionian singer. The long beach, on which the multitudinous sea was beating when the angry priest went away dishonored from the presence of the King of Men; the spreading plain, crossed by the Scamander, with Simois in his neighborhood, ready to pour in his auxiliary stream when the mountain storms swell the current and send it tumultuous on its way; the line of shore on which the ships and tents of the Grecian host were drawn up so long ago;— these and every other feature of the groundwork of the tale of Troy divine fill the eye and gratify the imagination with a sense of the truth and reality of Homer, which all the learned dissertations in the world cannot overcome. As we stand there, Homer in hand, we know that Homer is a present and living guide; that every epithet has its prototype in the world around us; that his eye rested on the same objects which fix our eager gaze; and that yonder streams are the streams which rose in their wrath and checked the slaughters of the son of

Peleus. This delightful sense of truth and reality in the wondrous work over which we have pored for so many studious hours, is the present charm of the plain of Troy; and Lord Carlisle's scholarly pages bring back the charm in all the force and freshness of its fascination. We will only add, that the careful researches of Forchhammer and Sproat-the one measuring the plain of Troy by the Iliad, as Lord Carlisle did, and the other with chain and compass-led them to the same conclusion that the scholarly tact of his Lordship and his just poetical sense divined. Now to pass one moment from old Priam's kingdom to a very interesting touch of practical life at Troy:

"July 18th.-Set off again with Captain Lushington at six ; found our horses at the watering-place by the Scamander; soon afterwards crossed the Simois, and rode twelve miles to a country-house of our consul, Mr. Calvert. This was over the northern part of the Troad, -through a much more cultivated and cheerful country than we had seen. .We found the consul's house - one formerly inhabited by a Turkish Aga, in the midst of the small village of Eren-keuy-airy and spacious enough in itself, with a very wide and glorious view over the Hellespont, the Ægean, and the islands, — all the waters in intense blue. I was very greatly pleased with my host. Besides this villa, he has two large farms, one in the Chersonese, on the European side, the other on the plain of Troy, the last of three thousand acres. He holds them in the name of his wife, as the Turkish law does not allow males, not Mussulmans, to hold land. This example may possibly lead to a relaxation of this rule the payment due to the state is a land-tax of about ten pounds a year, and a tithe of the produce; under the former proprietor, even the land-tax was in arrear, and the tithes nil; in the third year of his occupancy, Mr. C.'s tithes alone amounted to £150. He reprepresents the resources of the country, both in vegetable and mineral productions, as inexhaustible. He can get Turkish laborers for three pounds a year wages, besides their keep; but he finds it more profitable to employ Greeks at ten pounds a year: there is the present history of the two races.". - pp. 76, 77.

:

And a little farther on, a few sentences more, upon the same subject:

"July 23d.The morning was spent in very pleasant inaction. Mr. Calvert is beginning to form a museum, which will have much interest from the fragments he is gradually picking up; and as he proposes to

drain extensively, the utilitarian and antiquarian operations may materially assist each other. There are already several small vases of the so-termed Etruscan appearance, which he assigns to about the time of Philip of Macedon. We dined at half-past three, and then took a delicious ride, only that the horses were slightly too skittish for deliberate enjoyment of the picturesque; but the sunset aspect of the Hellespont, the Gulf of Saros, and the islands, especially Samothrace, which looks most majestic when you see it rise from its water base, was very beautiful. We passed a graceful, small grove, where the Greeks have still the custom of sacrificing an ox or bullock once a year, and then eating it, with song and dance, afterwards. The only deficiency is generally that of well-grown trees. We saw some fine silver ash: the air is made fragrant by large thickets of Agnus Castus. The interior of this household is not less rich in attraction than all one has to see outside of it, and it is of a still higher kind. It has been of late much clouded by sorrow. Mrs. C.'s mother, Mrs. Abbott, retains a most remarkable degree of beauty, though she has had sixteen children. It does not fall within my purpose to dwell upon domestic details, among those whom I may meet or visit; but it is impossible to have even had my short insight into Mr. Calvert's way of proceeding with the untutored races among whom his abode is fixed, his gentle energy, his wise benevolence, his inventive utilitarianism, without feeling that such a class of men would be more real regenerators of this bright, but still barbarous region, than either fleets or protocols. He is gradually introducing the stock and implements of Europe upon his Chersonese and Troad farms, to which he is now meditating to add another, on the site of the ancient Dardanus. He dispenses advice and medicine among the villagers, and has even gone so far as to set a leg; he has lent them money to pay off a debt for which they were paying interest at twenty per cent, and now they are in a fair way of repaying the whole to him. I ought to mention that these are all Greeks; he has found, by damaging experience, that it is desperate to lend money to Turks." pp. 96, 97.

We close our extracts from the Diary in the Turkish Waters, by the following striking summary, the fidelity of which we can vouch for.

"We set off at sunset; and I am now, for a time at least, leaving the Turkish waters. I am tempted to throw back a momentary glance on the remarkable empire which they bathe, at this portentous moment of its fortunes. Even independently of the direct alliance which now unites it with our own country and with the civilization of Europe, and

which makes their quarrel one, we must necessarily admire the high and even heroic spirit with which the Turkish rulers and people have now thrown themselves upon the issue with that enormous power, which, reckoned sufficiently colossal by the rest of Europe, must have tenfold threatening proportions for them. Moreover, in this fearful struggle which they have thus not shrunk from encountering, it is impossible not to admit that the justice of the cause is wholly on their side. In giving this opinion, I do not so much allude to the actual propositions of Prince Mentchikoff, for which in the outset some plausible and even some substantial grounds might be alleged; on the contrary, I do not think it well for any Christian state to leave its co-religionists to the uncovenanted forbearance of Mussulman rulers; but the just condemnation of Russia lies here, that in the course of the long subsequent negotiations and proceedings, both Turkey and Europe have given, and are still giving her abundant opportunities for preserving, with honor and advantage to herself, the peace of the world, but which in the obstinacy of her pride she has slighted and set at naught. At the same time, while our sympathy, our admiration, and our conscience are thus co-enlisted on the side of Turkey, I think that no calm observer should be misled either respecting her present condition or her probable prospects; and this not with the view to what may be required of us in immediate action, but in order to make us cautious in calculating upon remote results, or in entering into new and inapplicable guaranties.

"Among the lower orders of the people, there is considerable simplicity and loyalty of character, and a fair disposition to be obliging and friendly. Among those who emerge from the mass, and have the opportunities of helping themselves to the good things of the world, the exceptions from thorough-paced corruption and extortion are most rare; and in the whole conduct of public business and routine of official life, under much apparent courtesy and undeviating good-breeding, a spirit of servility, detraction, and vindictiveness appears constantly at work. The bulk of the people is incredibly uninformed and ignorant : I am told that now they fully believe that the French and English fleets have come in the pay of the Sultan; and when the Austrian special mission of Count Leiningen arrived in the early part of this year, and led, by the way, to much of what has since occurred, they were persuaded that its object was to obtain the permission of the Sultan for the young Emperor to wear his crown. Upon the state of morals I debar myself from entering. Perhaps the most fatal, if not the most faulty, bar to national progress is the incurable indolence which pervades every class alike, from the Pasha, puffing his perfumed