faced by the dealer, unless in the first round, before any of the four cards are turned up upon the table; but if a card happen to be faced in the pack, before any of the said four be turned up, then the deal must be begun again.

Any person playing with less than four cards must abide by the loss; and should a card be found under the table, the player whose number is deficient is to take the same.

Each person plays one card at a time, with which he may not only take at once every card of the same denomination upon the table, but likewise all that will combine therewith; as, for instance, a ten takes not only every ten, but also nine and ace, eight and deuce, seven and three, six and four, or two fives; and if he clear the board before the conclusion of the game, he is to score a point; and whenever any player cannot pair or combine, then he is to put down a card,

The tricks are not to be counted before all the cards are played; nor may any trick but that last won be looked at, as every mistake must be challenged immediately.

After all the pack is dealt out, the player who obtains the last trick sweeps all the cards then remaining unmatched upon the table,

VINGT-UN. DESCRIPTION OF THE GAME.The game of Vingt-un, or twenty-one, may be played by two or more persons; and, as the deal is advantageous, and often continues long with the same person, it is usual to determine it at the commencement by turning up the first ace, or any other mode that may be agreed upon.

METHOD OF PLAYING VINGT-UN. The cards must all be dealt out in succession, unless a natural Vingt-un occur, and in the meantime the pone, or youngest hand, should collect those that have been played, and shuffle them together, ready for the dealer, against the period when he shall have distributed the whole pack. The dealer is first to give two cards, by one at a time, to each player, including him

self; then to ask every person in rotation, beginning with the eldest hand on the left, whether he stands or chooses another card, which, if required, must be given from off the top of the pack, and afterwards another, or more, if desired, till the points of the additional card or cards, added to those dealt, exceed or make twenty-one exactly, or such a number less than twenty-one as may be judged proper to stand upon. But when the points exceed twenty-one, then the cards of that individual player are to be thrown up directly, and the stakes to be paid to the dealer, who also is, in turn, entitled to draw additional cards; and, on taking a Vingt-un, is to receive double stakes from all who stand the game, except such other players, likewise having twenty-one, between whom it is thereby a drawn game; and when any adversary has a Vingt-un, and the dealer not, then the opponent so having twenty-one wins double stakes from him. In other cases, except a natural Vingt-un happen, the dealer pays single stakes to all whose numbers under twenty-one are higher than his own, and receives from those who have lower numbers; but nothing is paid or received by such players as have similar numbers to the dealer; and when the dealer draws more than twenty-one, he is to pay to all who have not thrown up.

NATURAL VINGT-UN.-Twenty-one, whensoever dealt in the first instance, is styled a Natural Vingt-un, it should be declared immediately, and entitles the possessor to the deal, besides double stakes from all the players, unless there shall be more than one Natural Vingt-un; in which case the younger hand or hands having the same are excused from paying to the eldest, who takes the deal, of course, Observe-An ace may be reckoned either as eleven or one; every courtcard is counted as ten, and the rest of the pack according to their points.

THE ODDS Of Natural Vingt-un merely depend upon the average number of cards likely to come under or

exceed twenty-one; for example, if those in hand make fourteen exactly, it is seven to six that the one next drawn does not make the number of points above twenty-one; but if the points be fifteen, it is seven to six against that hand; yet it would not, therefore, always be prudent to stand at fifteen, but as the ace may be calcu lated both ways, it is rather above an even bet that the adversary's two first cards amount to more than fourteen. A natural Vingt-un may be expected once in seven coups when two, and twice in seven when four people play, and so on, according to the number of players.

CROQUET.-This out-door pastime is of comparatively modern creation, and is every day becoming more in vogue. It may be played by persons of all ages and of either sex; but it is especially adapted for ladies and young persons, as it demands but trifling personal exertion, while it affords delightful and health-giving sport.

THE GROUND UPON WHICH CROQUET IS PLAYED is preferably a grass-plot of an oblong form; but an ordinary lawn or expanse of even turf will answer the purpose, so long as it is of sufficient extent for the operation of the game.

THE IMPLEMENTS FOR PLAYING Croquet are the balls, the mallets, the starting and turning-pegs, the croquet clips or markers, the hoops or arches. These may be obtained at the ordinary toy warehouses.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE HOOPS.As much of the interest of this game depends upon the arrangement of the hoops, it is essential that they should be fixed in the ground on definite principles. In the first place, the starting-peg is driven in at one end of the ground, and the turning-peg is driven in at the other extremity. From each of these pegs a space of twelve feet intervenes; here a hoop is fixed; another space of ten feet intervenes, when a second hoop is fixed; a space of eight feet then succeeds,

and at this point is formed what may be termed the base, on each side of which, at a distance of twenty feet, and succeeding each other at intervals of ten feet, three hoops are driven in. By this arrangement a square is formed, the starting-peg leading into its centre, and the turning-peg leading from it. Where the ground is small, the distances may be contracted proportionally. Other arrangements of the hoops may be made at the discretion of the players, but the firstnamed plan will be found best worthy of adoption, as it affords the most excellent opportunities for the display of address and skill.

THE GAME CONSISTS in striking the balls from the starting-peg through the seven hoops to the peg at the opposite extremity. The balls are then driven back again to the starting peg.

THE GAME MAY BE PLAYED by any number of persons not exceeding eight. A larger number protracts the intervals between the several turns, and thereby renders the game tedious. The most eligible number is four. If two only play, each player should take two balls, and when as many as eight play, there should be two sides or sets.

IN PLAYING THE GAME each player takes a mallet, ball, and croquet clip of the same color or number, the clip being used to indicate the hoop at which, in his turn, he aims. The division into sides, choice of balls, mallets, etc., is determined by the players among themselves.

LAWS OF THE GAME.-In Croquet, as with many other sports when first established, there exist differences of opinion on certain points of practice. We have consulted numerous treatises on the game, and find Jaques's "Laws and Regulations of the Game of Croquet" to be one of the most practical and straightforward manuals extant It is to this work that we are mainly indebted for the following laws of the game:

On commencing, each player must place his ball within a mallet's length

of the starting-peg in any direction, and his opening stroke must be to pass through the first hoop.

The players on each side are to play alternately, according to the colors on the starting-peg, and the order in which they play cannot be altered during the game.

Each player continues to play so long as he plays with success, that is, so long as he drives his ball through the next hoop in order, or croquets another ball.

When a player strikes his own ball so as to hit another at a distance, he is said to roquet it; and, having thus hit a ball, he must then, as it is termed, "take the croquet," which is done as follows: --He lays his own ball against the other so that the two touch; he then places his foot on his own ball, which he strikes with his mallet; this will drive the ball with a momentum and in a direction most desired. In doing this the player should press his foot on his own ball.

A player must move the ball he croquets. He is said to "take a stroka ott" when he places his own ball to touch the croqueted ball very lightly, so as to leave it, when croqueted, in nearly the same position; but in doing this the croqueted ball must be perceptibly moved.

No ball can croquet, or be croqueted, until it be passed through the first hoop.

Any player missing the first hoop takes his ball up, and, when his turn comes again, plays from the starting place, as at first.

A player may croquet any number of balls consecutively; but he cannot croquet the same ball twice during the same turn, without first sending his own ball through the next hoop in order.

Instead of aiming at his hoop or another ball, a player may strike his ball towards any part of the ground he pleases. When he has made a complete circuit from the starting-peg back to the starting peg, he may either retire from the game by pegging, or, by not

When a ball roquets another ball, the player's ball is "dead," and " in hand" until after the player of it has taken the croquet. Hence it follows that if it cannon from one ball to another, or from a ball through its own hoop, or from a ball on to either of the pegs, none of these subsequent strokes count anything. If, however, a player cannon off a ball which in the same turn he has oroqueted, and then runs off it and makes a stroke, that stroke counts.

A player whose ball is roqueted or croqueted through its hoop la order, counts the hoop,

A player must hit his ball fairlynot push it. A ball is considered to be fairly hit when the sound of the stroke is heard. A ball is "pushed" when the face of the mallet is allowed to rest against it, and the ball propelled without the mallet being drawn back.

A player may play in any attitude, and use his mallet with his hands in any way he pleases, so that he strike the ball with the face of the mallet.

When the ball of a player hits tha starting-peg, after he has been through all the hoops, whether by his own play, or by being roqueted (subject to the provisions in law 10), or by being oroquoted, he is out of the game, which goes on without him, his turn being omitted.

The clip is placed on the hoop through which the player is next going. The clips are to be changed by the umpire, and are decisive as to the posttion of a player's ball; but if the umpire forget to change a clip, any player may remind him before the next struke. should there be no clips, a player is entitled to ask any other player how he stands in the game.

A player stops at the peg; that is, having struck the turning-peg in order,

his turn is at an end, and even though he should roquet off the peg, it does not count. When his turn comes round again, he plays his ball from the spot it rolled to after pegging.

A ball is considered to have passed through its hoop if it cannot be touched by the handle of the mallet, laid on the ground from wire to wire, on the side from which the ball passed.

The decision of the umpire is final. His duties are to move the clips; to decide when balls are fairly struck; to restore balls to their places which have been disturbed by accident; and to decide whether a croqueted ball is moved or not, in doubtful cases.

TERMS USED IN THE GAME.-Roquet, -To hit another ball with one's own. Croquet. To strike one's own ball when in contact with a roqueted ball. Wired. To have the ball in such a position that a hoop prevents the stroke which is wished to be made. Peg.-To "peg" is to strike either of the pegs in proper order. Dismiss. -To "dismiss" a ball is to croquet it to a distance.

Anglo-Japanese Work.-This is an elegant and easy domestic art. Take yellow withered leaves, dissolve gum, black paint, copal varnish, etc. Any articles may be ornamented with these simple materials an old tea-caddy, flower-pots, fire-screens, screens of all descriptions, work-boxes, etc. Select perfect leaves, dry and press them between the leaves of books; rub the surface of the article to be ornamented with fine sand-paper, then give it a coat of fine black paint, which should be procured mixed at a color shop, When dry, rub smooth with pumicestone, and give two other coats. Dry. Arrange leaves in any manner and variety, according to taste. Gum the leaves on the under side, and press them upon their places. Then dissolve some isinglass in hot water, and brush it over the work. Dry. Give three coats of copal varnish, allowing ample time for each coat to dry. Articles thus ornamented last for years, and are very pleasing.

Ornamental Leather Work. - An excellent imitation of carved oak, suitable for frames, boxes, vases, and ornaments in endless variety, may be made of a description of leather called basil. The art consists in simply cutting out this material in imitation of natural objects, and in impressing upon it by simple tools, either with or without the aid of heat, such marks and characteristics as are necessary to the imitation. The rules given with regard to the imitation of leaves and flowers apply to ornamental leather work. Begin with a simple object, and proceed by degrees to those that are more complicated. Cut out an ivy or an oak leaf, and impress the veins upon it; then arrange these in groups, and affix them to frames, or otherwise. The tools required are ivory or steel points of various sizes, punches, and tin shapes, such as are used for confectionery. points may be made out of the handles of old tooth-brushes. Before cutting out the leaves the leather should be well soaked in water, until it is quite pliable. When dry, it will retain the artistic shape. Leaves and stems are fastened together by means of liquid glue, and varnished with any of the drying varnishes, or with sealing-wax dissolved to a suitable consistency in spirits of wine. Wire, cork, guttapercha, bits of stems of trees, etc., may severally be used to aid in the forma tion of groups of buds, flowers, seedvessels, etc.

The

Black Paper Patterns.- Mix some lampblack with sweet oil. With a piece of flannel cover sheets of writingpaper with a mixture: dab the paper dry with a bit of fine linen. When using, put the black side on another sheet of paper, and fasten the corners together with small pins. Lay on the back of the black paper the pattern to be drawn, and go over it with the point of a steel drawing pencil: the black will then leave the impression of the pattern on the under sheet, on which you may draw it with ink.

Patterns on Cloth or Muslin are drawn with a pen dipped in stone blue,

a bit of sugar, and a little water; wet to the consistence wanted.

Feather Flowers. Procure the best white swan or goose feathers; have them plucked off the fowl with care not to break the web; free them from down, except a small quantity on the shaft of the feather. Get also a little fine wire, different sizes; a few skeins of fine floss silk, some good cotton wool or wadding, a reel of No. 4 Moravian cotton, a skein of Indian silk, the starch and gum for pastes, and a pair of small sharp scissors, a few sheets of colored silk paper, and some water colors.

HAVING PROCURED TWO GOOD SPECIMENS of the flower you wish to imitate, carefully pull off the petals of one, and, with a piece of tissue paper, cut out the shape of each, taking care to leave the shaft of the feather at least half an inch longer than the petal of the flower. Carefully bend the feather with the thumb and finger to the proper shape; mind not to break the web."

TO MAKE THE STEM AND HEART OF A FLOWER. Take a piece of wire six inches long; across the top lay a small piece of cotton wool, turn the wire over it, and wind it round until it is the size of the heart or centre of the flower you are going to imitate. If a single flower, cover it with paste or velvet of the proper color, and round it must be arranged the stamens; these are made of fine Indian silk, or feathers may be used for this purpose. After the petals have been attached, the silk or feather is dipped into gum, and then into the farina. Place the petals round, one at a time, and wind them on with Moravian cotton, No. 4. Arrange them as nearly like the flower you have for a copy as possible. Cut the stems of the feathers even, and then make the calyx of feathers, cut like the pattern or natural flower. For the small flowers the calyx is made with paste. Cover the stems with paper or silk the same as the flowers; the paper must be cut in narrow strips, about a quarter of an inch wide.

TO MAKE THE PASTES OF THE CALYX,

HEARTS, AND BUDS OF FLOWERS. Take common white starch and mix it with gum water until it is the substance of thick molasses; color it with the dyes used for the feathers, and keep it from the air.

TO MAKE THE FARINA.Use common ground rice, mixed into a stiff paste with any dye: dry it before the fire, and when quite hard, pound it to a fine powder. The buds, berries, and hearts of some double flowers are made with cotton wool, wound around wire, moulded to the shape with thumb and finger. Smooth it over with gum water, and when dry, cover the buds, berries, or calyx with the proper colored pastes they will require one or two coats, and may be shaded with a little paint, and then gummed and left to dry.

FLOWERS OF TWO OR MORE SHADES are variegated with water colors, mixed with lemon-juice, ultra-marine, and chrome for blue; and to produce other effects, gold may also be used in powder, mixed with lemon-juice and gum water.

To Dye Feathers Blue. Into ten cents worth of oil of vitriol mix ten cents worth of the best indigo in powder; let it stand a day or two; when wanted shake it well, and into a quart of boiling water put one tablespoonful of the liquid. Stir it well, put the feathers in, and let them simmer a few minutes.

YELLOW. Put a tablespoonful of the best turmeric into a quart of boiling water; when well mixed put in the feathers. More or less of the turmeric will give them different shades, and a very small quantity of soda will give them an orange hue.

GREEN. Mix the indigo liquid with turmeric, and pour boiling water over it; let the feathers simmer in the dye until they have acquired the shade you want them.

PINK. Three good pink saucers in a quart of boiling water, with a small quantity of cream of tartar. If a deep color is required, use four saucers. Let the feathers remain in the dye sev eral hours.