+2 cotton on 1 cotton, 8 beads, 3 cotton, 4 beads, 13 cotton,+8 times.

-

28th Round. +3 cotton over 2 C and 1 B, 6 beads, 3 cotton, 4 beads, 14 cotton,+8 times.

29th Round. +4 cotton, 3 beads (the 1st over 2d of 6), 3 cotton, 5 beads, 16 cotton, + 8 times, 5 cotton. 30th Round.+ 9 beads, beginning on 2d of 3, 21 cotton, + 8 times.

Do one round of cotton only, and then one of beads.

BORDER. +2 Sc cotton, 15 beads, 2 cotton, 13 chain with a bead on each, miss 12,8 times.

*

*

2d Round.2 slip on 2 cotton,+2 Sc with cotton on the first 2 beads, 1 bead, 1 cotton, alternately 6 times, 1 cotton, 5 Ch, with beads, 1 Sc with bead on 4th of 18, 7 Ch with beads, miss 5 of 13, Sc with bead on next, 5 Ch with beads, + 8 times.

3d Round.+ 2 Se with cotton on 2d Sc and 1 bead, *1 bead, 1 cotton, *5 times, 1 cotton, 5 Ch with beads. 1 Se with bead on 4th of 5, 6 Ch with beads, 1 Sc on 4th of 7 with beads, 6 Ch with beads, Sc with bead on 2d of 5 Sc, 5 Ch with beads, + 8 times.

*

*

4th Round.+ 2 Sc cotton as before, 1 bead over cotton, 1 cotton over bead, 4 times. 1 more cotton, 5 Ch with beads, 1 Sc with bead on 4th of 5, 6 Ch with beads, 1 Sc with bead on 4th of 6, 6 Ch with bead, 1 Sc with bead on 3d of next 6, 6 Ch with beads, 1 Se with bead on 2d of 5, 5 Ch with beads. These D'Oyleys must be washed with white Windsor soap and soft water only. When quite clean rinse them in fresh water, and hang them before a fire, or in the air to dry. When nearly dry, pull them out into shape. On no account use any starch, nor an iron, Beads, when of good quality, and properly washed, will remain for years uninjured.

HINT ON D'OYLEYS.-Experienced workers often find a difficulty in knowing the exact termination of a round in D'Oyley's, and frequently the pattern is destroyed by an error in the calculation. This difficulty may be remedied at once, by attention to the following rule: Take a thread very opposite in color to that of your work, and only a few inches long. When only two or three rounds are done, and it is still perfectly easy to see the end of the round, draw the needleful of thread through the chain of the last stitch. Do the same with every other round, so that the colored thread finally runs in a straight line from the centre to the edge. It will save much trouble and many blunders, especially when working the Jewelled D'Oyleys.

Crochet à Tricoter. -- Take rather a long crochet hook, with a button on the end. Make a chain as for ordinary crochet, leaving the last made stitch on the hook to form the first stitch of the next row; this kind of crochet being worked backward and forward.

2d Row. Put the hook through the next loop on the chain to the loop already on the hook, and draw the thread through, leaving this last made loop on the hook. Continue till you have taken up on the hook as many loops as there were in the original chain.

3d Row.-Put the thread once round the hook and draw it through the two first loops on the hook. Thread once round the hook and through the last loop made and the one next to it on the hook. Repeat till all are worked off.

4th Row. Put the hook through the first long perpendicular loop, draw the thread through, leaving the last made loop on the hook. Repeat till all the long loops have been worked, keeping all the loops on the hook and taking always the loop at the edge. 5th Row. Same as 3d.

This stitch is only suitable for straight work. To narrow, leave out the edge loop.

A chain of 30 makes a pretty scarf for a lady. It should measure a yard and half long, with fringe four or six inches long at each end.

one row of double stitch with lilac filoselle, then one row of double stitch with white wool; the third row is worked again with filoselle, alternately one double, one chain stitch, missing one under the last; in the last two rows insert the needle into the two upper chains of the preceding rows.

The comforter is ornamented at both ends with fringe in white wool, the upper edge of which may be covered with lilac filoselle.

Instructions in Netting. The beauty of netting consists in its firmness and regularity. All joins in the thread must be made in a very strong knot; and, if possible, at an edge, so that it may not be perceived.

The implements used in netting are a netting-needle and a mesh. In filling a netting-needle with the material, be careful not to make it so full that there will be a difficulty in passing it through the stitches. The size of the needle must depend on the material to be employed, and the fineness of the work. Steel needles are employed for every kind of netting except the very coarsest. They are marked from 12 to 24, the latter being extremely fine. The fine meshes are usually also of steel; but, as this material is heavy, it is better to employ bone or wooden meshes when large ones are required. Many meshes are flat; and in using them the width is given.

The first stitch in this work is termed diamond netting, the holes being in the form of diamonds. To do the first row, a stout thread, knotted to form a round, is fastened to the knee with a pin, or passed over the foot, or on the hook sometimes attached to a work cushion for the purpose. The end of the thread on the needle is knotted to this, the mesh being held in the left hand on a line with it. Take the needle in the right hand; let the thread come over the mesh and the third finger, bring it back under the mesh, and hold it between the thumb and first finger. Slip the needle through the loop over the third finger, under the mesh and

the foundation thread. In doing this a loop will be formed, which must be passed over the fourth finger. Withdraw the third finger from the loop, and draw up the loop over the fourth, gradually, until it is quite tight on the mesh. The thumb should be kept firmly over the mesh while the stitch is being completed. When the necessary number of stitches is made on this foundation, the future rows are to be worked backwards and forwards. To form a round, the first stitch is to be worked immediately after the last, which closes the netting into a circle.

ROUND NETTING is very nearly the same stitch. The difference is merely in the way of putting the needle through the loop and foundation, or other stitch. After passing the needle through the loop, it must be brought out, and put downwards through the stitch. This stitch is particularly suitable for purses.

SQUARE NETTING is exactly the same stitch as diamond netting, only it is begun at a corner, on one stitch, and increased (by doing two in one) in the last stitch of every row, until the greatest width required is attained. Then, by netting two stitches together at the end of every row, the piece is decreased to a point again. When stretched out, all the holes in this netting are squares.

Square and diamond netting are the most frequently used, and are ornamented with patterns darned on them, in simple darning or in various point stitches. In the latter case it forms a variety of the sort of work termed guipure, now so fashionable.

GRECIAN NETTING. - Do one plain row. First pattern row. Insert the needle in the first stitch, and, without working it, draw through it the second stitch, through the loop of which draw the first, and work it in the ordinary way. This forms a twisted stitch, and the next is a very small loop formed of a part of the second stitch. Repeat this throughout the row.

The second row is done plain.
The third like the first; but the