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Materials-One skein Knitting Cord, No, 16; one reel of Mecklenburgh Thread, No. 5, and one No. 50; three rows of blue Beads (large); two Meshes, one flat, nearly half an inch wide, and the other round, steel No. 10; one Netting Needle, and one coarse Sewing Needle.

On a foundation of 18 stitches net one plain round with flat mesh.

2d Round-Flat mesh, two stitches in each except the last, in which net only one.

3d Round.-Small mesh, 1 stitch in each.

4th Round.-Bame as 3d.

5th Round. Flat mesh, 2 in each, except the last, in which net only one. 6th Round. Small mesh, 1 stitch in each, missing 1 stitch, netting the next, and returning to the missed one all round.

7th Round.-Small mesh, 1 stitch in each.

Net 12 rounds more, the same as 7th round.

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21st Round. Small mesh, same as 6th round.

22d and 28d Rounds.-Small mesh, 1 stitch in each.

Fasten off, cut away the foundation, draw up the stitches tightly, and with the Mecklenburgh No. 5 darn the first round of meshes closely. Then in the 13 rounds of small netting darn 1 line of diamonds the entire depth of small netting, which will be 18 diamonds, with Mecklenburgh No. 5, miss é meshes, darn the 7th line of diamonds; continue thus all round the D'Oyley. Now miss 2 meshes from the top of a darned line, and darn 4 with the same thread. Miss 3 meshes downward from this, and darn 4 more. Miss 3 again and darn 4, repeat all round.

Thus there will be 8 darned dia

monds of 4 meshes between every darned line of diamonds. Thread a needle with No. 5, and insert it in the mesh at the right-hand corner of the centre darned diamond, pass a bead into the mesh and slip the needle under the thread to the next mesh; before putting in another bead, take a back stitch over the thread under which you just passed the needle, then slip on another bead, and so on all round the close diamonds.

Now with No. 80 do a row of loose buttonhole stitch all round the beads, taking each stitch in a bead mesh;

then do another row of buttonhole stitches in the same meshes, reversing the stitches, taking one in each mesh opposite the one already done, and passing the needle every time through the loop made in the last row. This will fill the entire space between the darned lines.

Darn every mesh of the 21st round with No. 5 closely, and in the last row knot a fringe about an inch in depth.

Care must be taken that all the darning runs the same way, and the beads may be omitted if desired. Lady's Watch-Pocket, in Netted Embroidery.

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Materials-One reel Crochet Cotton No. 16; two Meshes, the same as those used in the Netted D'Oyley; a Netting Needle; one skein of colored Wool, of any color to suit the drapery of the room; a yard of inch-wide Sarcenet Ribbon; a round of Cardboard; and a small piece of Silk the same color as the Wool.

On a foundation of 28 stitches net one round with wide mesh,

2d Round. Small mesh, 1 in each. 3d, 4th, 5th, and 6th.-Same as 2d. 7th Round.-Large mesh, 2 in each. 8th Round. Small mesh, 1 in each. 9th and 10th Rounds.-Same as 8th, Fasten the thread, and with the wool cover the entire outside round of meshes with loosely-wrought buttonhole stitches. This forms the first round of the pocket.

On the same foundation, with wide mesh, net 1 plain round,

2d Round.-Wide meshes, 2 stitches

in each.

3d Round. Small mesh, net 2 stitches together all around.

Ath Round.-Small mesh, 1 in each. Do 6 more rounds the same. 11th Round. Small mesh, 2 stitches in each.

12th Round. Small mesh, 1 in each. 18th, 14th, 15th, and 16th Rounds, Small mesh, 1 stitch in each.

Fasten off and work the edge as before. In the 14th round darn every alternate diamond with the wool.

On a foundation of 18 stitches with wide mesh net 1 round.

2d Round. Small mesh, 2 in each. 3d Round. Small mesh, 1 in each, Do 5 more rounds the same, and work the edge as before; darn every alternate diamond in 6th round.

Take a round of cardboard the size of a large watch, leaving about an inch above the round at the top, cover it with the silk, lay the first piece of netting flat on it, and stitch it round,

Now take the second piece and stitch the 5th round of diamonds down tightly, rather more than half round, so as to make the edge come to the 7th round of the first piece. This will leave it loose in the centre to form the pocket. Stitch the other piece of net ting to the middle of this, and finish with a knot of ribbon in the centre, Attach a piece double, about three inches long, to the top, and add a rosette and ends.

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ments for tatting are a shuttle or short netting-needle, and a gilt pin and ring, united by a chain. The cotton used should be strong and soft. There are three available sizes, Nos. 1, 2, and 3. Attention should be paid to the manner of holding the hands, as on this depends the grace or awkwardness of the movement. Fill the shuttle with the cotton (or silk) required, in the same manner as a netting-needle. Hold the shuttle between the thumb and first and second fingers of the right hand, leaving about half a yard of cotton unwound. Take up the cotton, about three inches from the end, between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and let the end fall in the palm of the hand; pass the cotton round the other fingers of the left hand (keeping them parted a little), and bring it again between the thumb and forefinger, thus making a circle round the extended fingers. There are only two stitches in tatting, and they are usually done alternately; this is therefore termed a double stitch.

The first stitch is called the English stitch, and made thus:- Let the thread between the right and left hands fall towards you; slip the shuttle under the thread between the first and second fingers; draw it out rather quickly, keeping it in a horizontal line with the left hand. You will find a slipping loop is formed on this cotton with that which went round the fingers, Hold the shuttle steadily, with the cotton stretched tightly out, and with the seeond finger of the left hand slip the loop thus made under the thumb.

The other stitch is termed French stitch; the only difference being, that instead of allowing the cotton to fall towards you, and passing the shuttle downwards, the cotton is thrown in a loop over the left hand, and the shuttle passed under the thread between the first and second fingers upwards, The knot must be invariably formed by the thread which passes round the fingers of the left hand. If the operation is Instructions in Tatting, or Friv reversed, and the knot formed by the olité. The only necessary imple-cotton connected with the shuttle, the

loop will not draw up. This is occasioned by letting the cotton from the shuttle hang loosely instead of drawing it out and holding it tightly stretched. When any given number of these double stitches are done, and drawn closely together, the stitches are held between the first finger and thumb, and the other fingers are withdrawn from the circle of cotton, which is gradually diminished by drawing out the shuttle until the loop of tatting is nearly or entirely closed. The tatted loops should be quite close to each other, unless directions to the contrary are given.

the needle and cotton in working over these bars.

Edging in Tatting. -No. I.

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Materials,Tatting cotton, steel shuttle, and a

The pin is used in making an ornamental edge, something like purl edging, thus:-Slip the ring on the left- purling pin. The size of the cotton must depend upon the nature of the article which the edging is hand thumb, that the pin attached designed to trim. As a general rule, No. 1 is suitmay be ready for use. After mak- able for ladies' jupes, children's drawers, and other articles made in calico. No. 2 is a medium size, and ing the required number of double will do for finer drawers, and generally for things stitches, twist the pin in the circle of made in jaconet or cambric muslin. No. 3 is very cotton, and hold it between the fore-ne, and fit for infants' robes, caps, ladies' collars, finger and thumb, whilst making more double stitches; repeat. The little loops thus formed are termed picots.

Trefoil Tatting is done by drawing three loops up tightly, made closely together, and then leaving a short space before making more. The trefoil is sewed into shape afterwards with a needle.

To Join Loops. When two loops are to be connected, a picot is made in the first, wherever the join is required. When you come to the corresponding part of the second loop, draw the thread which goes round the fingers of the left hand through the picot with a needle, pulling through a loop large enough to admit the shuttle. Slip this through, then draw the thread tight again over the fingers, and continue the work. In many patterns a needle is used to work over, in buttonhole stitch, the thread which passes from one loop to another. A long needleful of the same cotton or silk used for the tatting is left at the beginning of the work, and a common needle used to buttonhole over bar wherever they occur.

Picots are also sometimes made with

etc.

1st Pattern. Begin by threading the end of the cotton with a sewing needle. Double the cotton, allowing a long needleful on the needle; and holding the doubled end between the finger and thumb, do 14 buttonhole stitches with the needle. The thread can then be drawn up tight, so as not to leave a loop. Now begin with the shuttle.

1st Loop.-12 double stitches, 1 picot, 4 double, draw up the loop, but not tightly, and work with the needle on the bar of thread 10 buttonhole stitches.

2d Loop. With the needle, do 2 buttonhole stitches on the thread before beginning this loop. 4 double, join to the picot of the last; 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw this up like the first, and work on the bar 10 buttonhole stitches. 2 more on the thread before the

3d Loop.4 double; join to the picot; 9 double, 1 picot, 3 double. Draw up this loop rather tighter; work on it 7 buttonhole stitches, and 2 on the thread afterward.

4th Loop.-(At the point.) 2 double, join to the picot, 12 double, 1 picot, 2 double. Draw this loop up quite tightly.

Work 2 buttonhole stitches on the thread afterward.

5th Loop. 3 double, join, 9 double, 1 picot, 4 double, draw up this like the third. Work on it 7 buttonhole stitches, and 1 on the thread afterward. Slip the needle through between the two buttonhole stitches after the second loop, and draw the thread through, allowing for a bar on which 6 buttonhole stitches can be worked. By doing these the thread is brought back to the fifth loop; do one more buttonhole | stitch on the thread, and proceed to the

4

6th Loop. 4 double, join; double, 1 picot, twice, 4 double. Draw it up, and work it with 10 stitches. Then join across to between the first and second loops, as after the fifth.

7th Loop.-4 double, join, -4 double, 1 picot, twice, 4 double. Take the needle across to the commencement of the first loop, and on the bar do 10 buttonhole stitches, 9 more buttonhole on the thread, join to the last picot, 9 but tonhole on the thread, make a picot, 9 more buttonhole. This completes one pattern.

1st Loop of the 2d Pattern. --4 double, join to the picot on the thread, 4 double, Join to the picot of the 7th loop, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw it up and work on the bar 10 buttonhole stitches, and 2 after.

2d Loop.-4 double, join to the picot, 4 double, join to the picot of the 6th loop, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw it up, and work it like the

last.

The remaining 5 loops are to be worked exactly like those of the first pattern. All subsequent ones are done like the second.

It may, perhaps, be permitted to us to observe that tatting (or frivolité), besides being very pretty, has the merit of wearing extremely well. It requires far less eyesight than crochet, and is much stronger than knitting, and is also (as we trust we prove) susceptible of great and elegant variations of design.

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Infant's Cap Crown in Tatting. MATERIALS. Tatting Cotton, No. 2; Steel Shuttle, No. 14; a very fine Purling Pin; and a Reel of Mecklenburgh, No. 12, for the Mechlin wheel in the centre.

The pattern consists of five loops, ten patterns being required to form the circle.

-3 double

1st Pattern. 1st Loop: stitches, 1 picot, 4 double stitches, 1 picot, 2 double stitches, 1 picot, 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches. Draw it up, leaving a bar of thread, on which 8 buttonhole stitches can be worked.

2d Loop.3 double stitches; join to the last picot of former loop, 5 double stitches, 1 picot, twice, 3 double stitches. Draw it up a little tighter than the last.

3d Loop.3 double stitches, join to the last picot of 2d loop, 4-6 double stitches, 1 picot, twice, 3 double. Draw it quite tight.

4th Loop. Same as 2d loop.

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5th Loop. 8 double stitches, join to the last picot of 4th loop; 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 2 double stitches, 1 picot, 4 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches. Draw it up, but not tighter than 1st loop.

To work the buttonhole stitches, take a common sewing needle, with a very long piece of the same cotton; slip the needle through the picot, after the two double stitches of the first loop, draw it out, leaving a short end, on which do four common buttonhole stitches; catch up the next picot; make 6 buttonhole stitches, 8 buttonhole stitches on the bar of the 1st loop, 2 between that and the bar of 2d loop, 6 on 2d bar, 2 between that and bar of 4th loop, 6 on bar of 4th loop, 1 before the next: now slip the needle through the two stitches after the 1st loop, thus forming a bar, on which work back 6 buttonhole stitches, then 1 more between 4th and 5th loops, and 8 on the bar of 5th loop. Take the needle across to the base of the 1st loop, and work back 10 stitches; now work 6 buttonhole stitches on the thread connected with the shuttle,

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