catch up the picot, work 8 buttonhole stitches, catch up the next picot, 4 buttonhole stitches, catch up 3d picot, 4 buttonhole stitches; make a picot, 8 buttonhole stitches; make another picot, 6 buttonhole stitches.

Now resume the shuttle, leaving the needleful of cotton attached to the work.

2d Pattern.-1st Loop.-Three double stitches, join to the last picot made with the needle and cotton; 4 double stitches, join to the other picot made with the needle, 2 double stitches join to picot in centre of the 5th loop of 1st pattern (which has already been caught up in working with the needle), 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches.

2d, 3d, 4th, and 5th Loops to be done as in the 1st pattern.

Then work the buttonhole stitches with the needle and cotton as before.

For the centre do ten loops thus: 1st Loop. Four double stitches, 1 picot, 6 double stitches; join to the picot at the point of the 3d loop of a pattern, 6 double stitches, 1 picot, 3 double stitches.

2d Loop.-Four double stitches; join to the last picot of 1st loop 6 double stitches; join to the picot at the point of 3d loop of a pattern; 6 double, 1 picot, 3 double stitches.

3d, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, and 10th, same as 2d. These loops must not be drawn very tightly. The bars which connect them must be buttonholed, as those of the patterns.

These ten loops will form a small circle, within which a Mechlin wheel should be worked with the Mecklenburgh, No. 12. The crown when completed should be trimmed with the following narrow edge:

1st Loop. Four double stitches, +1picot, 2 double stitches, +4 times. Draw it up to form a semicircle.

2d and all following Loops. Two double stitches; join to the last picot of former loop 2 double stitches, +1 picot, 2 double stitches, + 4 times.

Draw up as 1st loop, and sew neatly round the crown.

Fill the shuttle without cutting off the thread from the reel, as the reel thread is required for working the connecting bars; begin at the edge and make the

1st Oval of Trefoil.-Work 4 double stitches, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw up tight.

2d Oval.-5 double, join into last picot of former oval, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 5 double. Draw up tight. 3d Oval. 4 double, join into last picot of former oval, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double. Draw up tight. This completes one trefoil.

Now put the thread attached to the reel over the left hand, and on it work 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, this forms. the connecting bar between each trefoil; begin again as at *, joining each trefoil by the picots. To form the upper part of the pattern, work 4 double, join into the picot in the centre of connecting bar, 4 double, draw up tight, then with the reel thread over the left hand work 7 double, 1 picot, 7 double. With the shuttle thread next work 4 double, join to the same picot as the last made small oval, 4 double, draw up tight, repeat from *.

To form the heading, work a crochet chain of seven stitches into each of the picots of the bars last made with the reel thread.

Edging in Tatting. - No. III. The edge half of this pattern is worked with the single thread.

1st large Oval. 6 double, 1 picot, 1 double, * 6 times, 6 double,

double, 1 picot, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, draw up tight; this forms the small oval. Leave the thread as before, and work the second large oval, joining it into the last picot of the preceding large oval. Join the smaller ones in the same manner to each other. To form the upper half of pattern, fill the shuttle from the reel without cutting off the thread, work 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, join into the lower picot of the small oval in preceding row, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, draw up tight; with the reel thread work 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, to form connecting bar; make a small oval with the shuttle thread as before, joining it into the last picot of the former small oval in this row. Repeat: make a crochet heading as in the former pattern.

Edging in Tatting.- No. IV.

up. With the reel thread work 8 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double; then with shuttle thread work a second small oval, 5 double, join into the large picot of the first oval, 5 double, draw up. Repeat from *.

2d Row is exactly the same process reversed.

1st Small Oval.- 5 double, join into the large picot of the first oval in the former row; 5 double, draw up. With the reel thread work 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double.

2d Oval.-5 double, join into the same large picot as last small oval, 5 double; there are now 4 small ovals joined into the same large picot. Repeat from *.

3d Row is worked with the reel thread. Begin by joining the thread into the first picot of last row. Work* 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, join into second picot of last row, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, join into third picot, 2 double, join into next picot. Repeat from *

4th Row. Join reel thread into 1st picot of last row. Work * 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, join into second picot, 2 double, join into third picot. Repeat from*. Crochet heading as in former patterns.

Tatting Insertion.

This pattern is worked in four rows, all with the double thread, i. e., the

Join your two threads together and make 2 stitches in long tatting, then a

loop and 6 stitches, a loop and 6 stitches; all in long* tatting.

Then you commence the trefoil in round tatting:-5 stitches, join it to the loop after the 2 stitches in long tatting, 1 stitch, 1 loop, till there are 6 loops, then 5 stitches, and draw it together.

5 stitches, join it into the 6th loop of last round; 1 stitch, 1 loop, till there are 10 loops, then 5 stitches and draw it up.

5 stitches, join it into 10th loop of last round, 1 stitch, 1 loop, till there are 6 loops, then 5 stitches and draw it up. Now take the long tatting thread and join closely 6 stitches, 1 loop, 6 stitches, join it into the last loop of the last round of the trefoil; 2 stitches, 1 loop, 6 stitches, 1 loop, 6 stitches, and then leave the long tatting and begin the trefoil again.

The other side of the insertion is worked in the same way, only instead of making the loops between the different 6 stitches of the long tatting, you join it into the loops on the opposite

side.

To turn the corner you finish a trefoil and make your 6 loops of long tatting, then draw your thread through all the 5 loops of the three last trefoils. Instructions in Knitting. Although the art of knitting is known perhaps more generally than almost any other kind of fancy work, still, as the knowledge is not universal, and there have been of late years great improvements in many of the processes, we hope that a short account of all the stitches, and the elementary parts of the craft, will be welcomed by many of our friends; and most seriously would we recommend them to attain perfection in this branch of work, because, above all others, it is a resource to those who, from weak eyes, are precluded from many kinds of industrial amusement, or who, as invalids, cannot bear the fatigue of more elaborate work. The fact is that knitting does not require eyesight at all; and a

Worked with the reel thread.
Worked with shuttle thread.

very little practice ought to enable any one to knit while reading, talking, or studying, quite as well as if the fingers were unemployed. It only requires that the fingers should be properly used, and that one should not be made to do the duty of another.

The implements used for knitting are rods or pins of ivory, bone, or steel. The latter are most commonly used, and should have tapered points, without the least sharpness at the extremity.

The first process is Casting On.-Hold the end of cotton between the first and second fingers of the left hand, bring it over the thumb and forefinger, and bend the latter to twist the cotton into a loop; bend the needle in the loop; hold the cotton attached to the reel between the third and little fingers of the right hand, and over the point of the forefinger; bring the thread round the needle by the slightest possible motion; bend the needle towards you, and tighten the loop on the left-hand finger, in letting it slip off to form the first stitch.

Now take that needle with the loop on it in the left-hand, and another in the right. Observe the position of the hands. The left-hand needle is held between the thumb and the second finger, leaving the forefinger free, to aid in moving the points of the needles. This mode of using the forefinger, instead of employing it merely to hold the needle, is the great secret of being able to knit without looking at the work, for so extremely delicate is the sense of touch in this finger, that it will, after a little practice, enable you to tell the sort of stitch coming next, in the finest material, so that knitting becomes merely mechanical. Insert the point in the loop, bringing it be hind the other needle, slip the thread round it, bring the point in front, and transfer the loop to the left-hand needle, without withdrawing it from the right hand. Repeat the process for any number of stitches required.

Plain Knitting. Slip the point of the right-hand needle in a loop, bring

the thread round it, and with the forefinger push the point of the needle off the loop so that the thread just twisted round forms a new one on the right hand.

Purling. The right-hand needle is slipped in the loop in front of the lefthand one, and the thread, after passing between the two, is brought round it it is then worked as before. The thread is always brought forward before be ginning a purled stitch, unless partionlar directions to the contrary are given.

The Mode of making Stitches.-- To make one, merely bring the thread in front before knitting, when, as it passes over the needle, it makes a loop; to make two, three, or more, pass the thread round the neeille in addition, once for 2, twice for 8, and

so on.

Th Decrense. — Take one stitch off without knitting, knit one, then slip the point of the left-hand needle in the unknitted stitch and draw it over the other. It is marked in receipts d. 1. To decrease 2 or more, slip 1, knit 2, 3, or more together, as one, and pass the slip stitch over.

The way to Join a Round. Four of five needles are used in round work, such as socks, stockings, etc. Cast on any given number of stitches on one needle, then slip another needle in the last stitch, before casting any on it; repeat for any number. When all are cast on, knit the first 2 stitches off on to the end of the last needle. One needle is always left unused in casting on for a round.

The way of Joining the The of a Sock, or any similar thing. Divide all the stitches on to two needles, hold both in the left hand, as if they were one, and in knitting take a loop off each one, which knit together.

To east off-Knit 2 stitches; with the left-hand needle draw the first over the second; knit another; repeat. Observe that the row before the cast ing off should never be very tightly knitted.

To knit three stitches together, so that the centre one shall be in front.-Slip 2

off the needle together, knit the third, and draw the others over together.

To raise a stitch is to knit the bar of thread between the two stitches as

one.

The abbreviations used are! — K, knit; P, purl; D, decrease; K96 knit two together; P 2 t, purl two together; M 1, make one.

Take care to have needles and cotton or wool that are suitable to each other in size. The work of the best knitter in the world would appear ill done if the needles were too fine of too coarse. In the former case the work would be close and thick; in the latter it would be too much like a cobweb.

Shells for a Knitted Counterpane, - Fine knitting cotton and steel needles. Cast on 45 stitches. Knit 2 plain rows.

3d Row. -5 plain, thread forward and 2 together, 17 times, 5 plain.

4th Row. Plain knitting.

5th Row.--5 plain, forward 2 together, purl 1, till there are only 7 left. together, 5 plain.

6th Row. 7th Row. 8th Row. 9th Row.

Plain.

Same as 5th. Plain.

5 plain, 2 together, plain 1, till 7 are left. 2 together, 5 plain. 10th Row. - Purl all.

Continue 9 and 10 alternately until four ribs are formed, there will then be only 10 stitches on the needle; narrow these in the centre one till only one remains. Fasten off.

Brioche Stitch. This stitch is extremely elastic, and is very suitable for comforters, polka jackets, as well as for the Turkish cushion properly called a Brioche. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by 8, knit backwards and forwards. Thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, and repent.

Vase Mat. Having out the round in cashmere, line it with strong white linen; procure a small ivy leaf, by which cut nine leaves of velvet; brush the backs over with thin gum and lay them on the cashmere in the form seen in the

Now on a strong thread net 120 stitches of one color wool, which will be nearly the skein, thread a needle with white cotton, lift 8 stitches on it, pass a pearl on it and tie it, making the knot come inside the stitches, so as to be hidden when finished. Do the same with each skein of wool, then cut rounds of buckram one inch in diameter, on each of which tack one of the skeins of wool already prepared, commencing at the outer edge, and finishing in the middle with a velvet

of a color if preferred to white, but care must be taken that it is a color which will harmonize well with the green leaves-pale, pink, maize, or peach would look equally well; and if durability be an object, a rich light brown may be employed with good effect, when the wools chosen must also be darker.

This mat, when made of light colors, forms a very acceptable and elegant little gift to a bride, its beauty consisting in its simplicity.