Materials,- A piece of very fine white Swiss muslin nine inches square; a little rose-colored Shetland wool; a very fine rug needle; a half yard of narrow white braid, and one yard of white silk fringe, or a brush, and indigo mixed with thin gum-water.
The design (which consists of sprays of leaves in the centre, surrounded by vandykes, having a single leaf in each), must first be drawn on paper, thus:
Draw a circle 5 inches in diameter, in which draw 4 sprays of three leaves, each spray occupying the space of one quarter of the circle. Let the stems incline toward the centre, as seen in the engraving, Now draw 8 vandykes round the circle, in each of which draw a single leaf to correspond with those in the sprays-the leaf running to the point of the vandyke, which should be about two inches deep.
The design being thus prepared, place it under the muslin, on which trace it with a fine black lead pencil,
Now remove the paper, and with the Shetland wool chain stitch the sprays and single leaves in the vandykes very finely. Take a piece of white braid sufficient to go round the circle, and with the wool slightly and loosely work a row of open buttonhole stitches on one edge of it, and run it neatly round the circle, taking the two ends through the muslin, as it is diffi cult to fasten braid invisibly. Cut away the muslin between the vandykes, leaving sufficient outside each to form a narrow turning, which must be made on the right side of the cushion. On this turning lay the white silk fringe, and run it neatly round
each vandyke, making the edge exactly cover the mark forming the outline of the vandykes. Now make a cushion of strong white linen, sufficiently high to allow the fringed points to touch the table. The bottom of it may be covered with rosecolored silk, and the top and sides with white silk or satin. Fill it tightly, but not too hard, and tack the circle round which the braid is sewn to the top of the cushion, allowing the points to fall over. Make a pretty knot of rose colored and white ribbon mixed, tack in the centre, and the cushion is complete.
It is impossible to describe the chaste and elegant appearance of this simple cushion when made; and we feel sure our fair young friends will acknowledge it to be a pretty specimen of the many ornamental and useful articles which may be made at very trifling expense, both of money and time.
The cushion may, of course, be made to suit the drapery of any room by substituting any other colored wool, ribbon, etc.
How to Make a Dress-body Fit Well. — All who attempt dressmaking should have as many as six different size paper patterns, with pleats already made in them, so that they can cut out the body by one, and then tack it together and place it on the figure. The shoulder and under the arm are the principal places to let a body out or take it in. You must measure your paper pattern on the party you are going to fit. No amount of pulling it
will ever make it fit, neither will pinning it closely to the figure. Let the lady keep her dress on while you measure your pattern down the shoulder seam, under the arm seam, down front and back seams, and across the chest from arm seam to arm seam; the same with the back. If one pattern is too large or too small, try another; practice and industry will soon make you perfect. It is a good plan to keep two or three sizes made up ready to fit on. A clever dressmaker knows very nearly what body will fit before she puts it on. The taking the size of the waist is the least important part of your body. Most young beginners do not place the bosom pleats right; the pleats should not be carried high over the bosom. It must be noticed whether the bosom be high or low; if low, the length from the seam on the shoulder to the bosom pleats will be longer than for another body whose bosom lies high; if this point was more attended to there would be fewer complaints of the dress being tight across the chest. Changes are often made by stays forcing the human figure. Some ladies allow their figure to remain in its natural position, then there is a difference in the fitting; a figure of this kind requires more than all others to be well fitted, and certainly no pulling will make it sit well. Α figure braced in stiff stays will remain as you fit it; but the natural figure, being elastic, requires the dress-body to move with it, and yet fit well.
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