I am partial to any plan of getting double crops from the same land, but I desire to get the extra crop without extra labor if I can. This item of labor is my most formidable enemy in farming. Long pay-rolls make a frightful hole in the products of 80 acres. Mr. Woodward, to get his turnip crop with his corn, made an extra planting or seeding-nearly twice as much work as in planting the corn, for he "followed after, and put turnip seed each side of the corn, about six inches from the hill." Here were two hills dropped and covered besides the corn. Then when the plants were up, he dropped plaster and ashes on three hills instead of one. Then he cultivated twice in a row each way, "being carcful not to cultivate up the turnip plants." Then he hoed, and of course was again careful, and hoed the three hills instead of one. These he cultivated twice each way again. Then "he makes a flat hill." Then he thins out the turnips plants, and transplants in vacancies. Now suppose the labor done, although I should think both the corn and turnips would need cultivating after the transplanting stage of growth, it does not, to me, seem practicable to perform these four cultivatings with proper justice to the corn, without destroying many of the plants standing six inches from the corn. Supposing the use of land worth $7 per acre, would it not be more profitable to put this amount of labor and care on a separate crop, on other ground, leaving the corn to itself? Is not the main object of double crops, (economy,) in a measure defeated by this amount of extra labor? Mr. Woodward certainly succeeds in getting fine crops, and perhaps finds in his case more profit than I have in a similar attempt, which I will describe; yet I prefer my system, for my extra labor is mere nothing, and my crop, big or little, is a certain gain. My experiment was on about one acre of a three acre field of fodder corn, planted and cultivated by one machine, called the "Gage," in drills 24 feet apart. The Gage was astride the rows in a uniform line parallel therewith. On cultivating for the last time with this machine, I got upon it myself, (as it runs on wheels without guidance.) and sitting exactly over the corn row, holding a small tin-pail of purple top turnip seed between my knees, I strewed the seed from each hand in straight lines about six inches from the corn on each side. I dropped it just astride of the line of the following knife of the machine so as to partially cover it. The machine would have dropped it more evenly, but not expecting much return I did not, for two hours work, think it worth while to put on the dropper. It came up well, and the corn was soon too big to go through, so nothing more was done to it. This two hours ride was all the extra labor. Now for the result. The corn was very thick and heavy as a general thing, (see Co. GENT. p. 145,) a part was cut up as was intended, and fed green. Here the turnips were very large and good. The balance of the corn was left to ripen. There the turnips were smaller, but were very well worth harvesting, while the smallest left upon the ground made a good bite for the cows. On other parts of the same field I sowed carrots and ruta bagas in the same manner, and wherever the corn was cut up green, and where it was lightly seeded or destroy ed in a measure by worms or birds, the roots were good half size-some carrots that would weigh a pound-what our friend"Hurricane" calls, to quote from memory, "good fair sized roots." I thought that this crop paid very well, as it had cost nothing, and I am determined to practice the system more extensively, and with slight variations another year. As to the value of the crops thus raised with little labor, I can make no definite estimate, except in amount of feed in connection with other substances, I had about 17 acres of other corn; on the edges of this and the head lands, I scattered flat turnip seed after cultivating. These turnips, together with those of the one acre first mentioned, and the tops of near five acres of beets, carrots and rutabagas, have kept my stock of 36 cows in full milk and thriving condition up to 23d of Dec., with a daily feed of one-third bushel of brewer's Up to this date they would refuse corn grains each. stalks-cut or uncut. I commenced feeding beet tops on the 25th of October, the pasture being quite short, having had more than one cow to an acre upon it for 2 years. The tops of the field roots, lasted the 36 cows 4 weeks; and the flat turnips alone, raised as before stated, thereafter till the 23d of Dec., when the rutabagas were reached and mixed with soft turnips. There are yet perhaps 50 bushels of the latter, and yet 4 calves and 6 horses have shared in degree, this delicacy of feed. For it may as well come out here that I am too poor to raise or feed bay or oats in these times, not having had a spear which I am preserving as a curiosity to show my colt of hay in my barn since last spring, and only a few oats when he is grown up. Elmira, N. Y.. Dec. 26. TAPE LINE. [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] FARMERS' IMPLEMENTS. Now is the time for farmers to put all their agricultural implements in order, so that no time shall be lost nor expense incurred in the spring, when time is more emphatically money than at this season of the year. If you have a good set of tools, such as saws, planes, squares, chisels, &c., you can repair many broken tools about as well as a professional mechanic. But this is also a season to invent and make new agricultural implements. I say invent, because the time has not yet come when the farmer or the gardener cannot " get up" something to aid him in the cultivation of the soil, that is not to be found on sale at the stores. The most of our new and valuable implements originated in this way, or at least were invented by men who are practical farmers, or have been at some time of their lives. Who is so well able to invent farmers' tools or implements as the farmers themselves? They have brains, and the practical ability to judge of the merits of what they construct. They may not be able to make an article that embraces nice work of wood, iron and steel; but they can lay their plans before the proper mechanics, and thus produce what their brains have developed in theory. Instead of one spending his winter days in doing nothing but his "chores," and talking politics in the village stores or bar-rooms, he should be planning for the spring's work, and when it comes not find him unprepared for it. It is not the sleepy, unthinking, un-inventive farmer, who makes the most money by his vocation; but he who has the best and most perfect implements, and knows how to take care of them, when in or out of use. The Bee-Keeperz Department. The Construction and Size of Bee-Hives. THE SIZE OF THE HIVE for all sections north of 40 deg., should be 2,000 cubic inches-south of that about 1,800. The winters are longer in a high latitude and require more stores for winter,- -a large hive will secure it, but in any section there must be room for brood combs, and not much less than 1,800 will do. The cheapest material for hives is sound inch boards, unplaned, except at the corners, to make close joints. A suitable shape is 12 inches square inside, and 14 inches high -sticks are needed across the center inside each way, to help support the combs, and a hole for the bees to pass in the front side, one-third the way up. The top should be 15 inches square, and project half an inch over each side of the hive. Plane only the upper side; rabbet out the corner an inch wide and half an inch deep, upon which a box or cap 13 inhes square inside, will exactly fit. This cap is for a cover to glass boxes, and should be 7 inches deep, and may be made of half inch boards. Through the top of the hive (fig. 1) make two rows of inch holes, about 3 inches each side of a line drawn through the FIG. 1-HIVE TOP. center. They should be uniformly distant to match others in the bottom of glass boxes that are to fit over them. This is now ready to be nailed on the hive-stop the holes and set it away for use. it is time the boxes were added, if in a season of honey. New swarms should receive the boxes a little before the hive is full, unless the honey season is too nearly over. Full boxes should be exchanged for empty ones as fast as filled. [For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] TEST OF PURITY OF ITALIAN BEES. relied on-and if so, what is it? Is it color, size, number Is there any test of purity of the Italian bee that can be of yellow stripes, or any or all of these combined, that is to be taken as positive proof that the genuine article is on hand? These are questions that, I have no doubt, will inGENTLEMAN, and I propose giving the solution that I have terest many bee-keepers who are readers of the COUNTRY arrived at in the course of the last two seasons, during which I have been breeding the Italian bee. a And first, what is not a test? Can a person by simply inspecting a colony of so-called Italians pronounce them pure ? I answer most decidedly that he cannot. They may have certain marks or appearances about them which may lead to their being pronounced impure without any hesitation; but with every appearance of purity they cannot, from mere inspection, be positively said to be pure. I had a colony of bees last spring, the workers of which were as beautiful as any I ever saw. They had three yellow bands, and between every two sections of the abdomen they showed a distinct white ring, presenting a very beautiful appearance, but when I applied the test which I shall presently indicate, I found that, as regarded purity, they were worthless, and I long since gave the colony another queen. The only fault that I could at present find with these bees would be that they were Two glass boxes, 12 inches long, by 6 wide, (fig. 2,) very little too large. And here the question arises as to are to go on the hive at once, or four, 6 square, may be size. How is it that previous to the importation of the Italian used. For the wood part of these, (top and bottom,) thin bee into this country it was universally described as being of boards are planed to one-fourth of an inch thickness, and cut to the proper a smaller size than our native bee, and yet at this day you length and width; through the bottom can find many breeders of pure Italian bees who say that it make holes to correspond with those is decidedly larger? My own opinion, and I give it only as an in the top of the hive. The posts for opinion, is that the description referred to was correct-that the corners are five-eighths of an inch the Italian bee is somewhat smaller than the average of our bottom up, showing square, and 5 inches long. In two native bees, and that in its smallness of size and general the holes in the bottom adjacent sides of each make a narrow delicacy of appearance it shows evident signs of that long and combs in the top. groove with a saw or other tool, one- continued breeding "in-and-in" which has been a necessity fourth of an inch deep, for the glass to fit in. Set up the in order to keep the breed pure. I have, however, discoverbox by nailing through each corner into the posts. Smaller ed that a very slight cross of black blood will wonderfully posts may be used and the glass held by pieces of tin, if increase the size of the Italian bee, and that after you have preferred. Pieces of new white comb an inch square, are bred out almost every other sign of impurity, this increase of fastened to the top two inches apart-it is done by 'dip-size will be about the last to be got rid of. And now for the ping one edge in melted beeswax, and applied before but only that I have thoroughly proved it, and believe in its test, and I by no means lay claim to its originating with me, cooling. Glass are cut the right size from panes 10 by 12, correctness. with little waste, and slipped into the channels, and the other part nailed on; it is ready for use when the condition of the stock or swarm requires it. FIG. 2-GLASS BOX, The stand is made of inch boards 15 inches wide, by two feet long, the ends nailed on pieces of wood or joists from two to four inches square, and put directly on the ground, with the hive on the back end. The advantages will balance any little trouble of keeping down grass, weeds, &c. The roof is made by nailing together two boards like a house roof, 18 by 24 inches, and laid on loosely. This can be drawn over to protect the hive (fig. 3) from the sun in hot weather, and put back to allow the direct rays of the sun to strike it in spring or other FIG. 3-HIVE ROOF AND time when only moderate. In painting hives, &c., light colors are preferable. The apiary should be protected from winds by a high board fence or buildings. When not limited for room, stands should be placed four feet apart. Whenever the bees of old stocks are crowded outside the hive, when that is raised half an inch for ventilation, The true test of the purity of any colony of Italian bees, is in the color of the queens you can raise from it, The great majority of the queens, say nine out of ten, or ninety per cent., or even more, must be of pure golden yellow, or yellow with a slight tinge of red in it, such as you might call red gold, in distinction from yellow gold. There should not even be many of this latter color, as it would be a suspicious symptom, and on testing them, unless they breed back to bright yellow queens, the queen that produced them should be discarded. If breeders will only bear this in mind and insist on their Italian colonies producing bright yellow queens and plenty of them, the question of the size, color and marks of the pure Italian workers, will soon settle itself, because the color of the queens being an infallible test of purity, carries everything else with it; but so long as apiarans are satisfied with breeding queens of all colors from bright yellow down to a deep chestnut brown, so long will there be a never ending dispute as to what are the marks of a pure Italian worker. The numerous experiments that I have made during the only a very slight infusion of black blood in her veins, cannot last two seasons have satisfied me that an Italian queen with produce many pure yellow queens, and therefore I take it for granted that a queen whose royal progeny are almost all dark colored cannot pure. This I think is a logical deduction from the facts. c. W. T. Hulmeville, Pa. Bural Architecture. DESIGN FOR A FARM HOUSE. We present this design with some confidence that it will be found to meet the wants of a large class of farmers and other dwellers in the country. It is neither large nor costly. It has neither a pretentious nor a foreign aspect. It seems as though it might have grown out of the soil itself, so modestly does it harmonize with the best features of any cultivated landscape. Yet it is roomy enough for quite a large family, and every room is arranged for home, family enjoyment, rather than for show or for company. Any family which will adapt itself to the suggestions of refinement and intelligence indicated by the green-house, the baywindow and its crowning balcony, the latticed porch and the simple terrace, need never want more exciting pleasures than those always at command beneath and around the old roof tree. with a closet. For details of the construction of the conservatory or green-house, see previous numbers of the Register, or special taeatises on that subject. The cost of this house will be from $1,200 to $1,400.-Tucker & Son's Annual Register for 1860. RURAL ECONOMY---VARIOUS HINTS. LEAKY ROOFS.-Where a house has been built by one or more additions the occupants are almost sure to be troubled with leaks. The easiest way to stop them is to introduce suitable cement. White lead paint, with fine sand intermixed to stiffen it according to need, answers a good purpose. Gas tar, or any kind of tar, similar stiffened, will make an excellent water-proof, frost proof application. A third, and a very good cement, is made of four pounds PERSPECTIVE VIEW. of rosin, a pint of linseed oil, and an ounce of red lead, to be applied hot, with a brush. Any person who knows the difference between cold, wet discomfort, and warm and dry enjoyment, should try one of these remedies for a leaky house. PAINTING.-Every farmer has several hundred dollars invested in wagons, carts, machines and implements. Now how much longer would these all last if every crack, joint and pore were always kept well filled with good oil paint? Probably on an average at least one-third longer than if not painted, and more probably at least twice as long. A great deal may be done by keeping them properly housed; but they must necessarily be more or less exposed in use: the beat opens the cracks in summer, a shower often overtakes them and soaks into these cracks. The process is again and again repeated, and decay begins. An overstrain splits them wider, or breaks certain parts. They must be patched or repaired, or new ones purchased. The farmer who has five hundred dollars thus invested might save from fifty to a hundred dollars a year by keeping a pot of paint always on hand, and on an occasional rainy or spare day go over his machines and implements, and fill with paint such as need it. The pot should have a tight cover, so as to prevent the paint drying, which may be best accomplished by using an earthen jar, with a large cork to fit it. Every farmer should keep a vessel of white lead paintthe pure article. This is the best for filling in cracks or joints in small tools-it is good for abrasions on the backs of animals, from harness or yokes-it is good for the scratches in horses that have to travel muddy roads-and it is good to coat the mould-board of a plow, to prevent rust after plowing is completed. WEDGES REBOUNDING.-Many of our readers cut and split large wood in winter. When the logs are icy, some of them are annoyed by the wedge rebounding or flying back. Ashes dropped in will usually prevent it, but ashes are not cominonly at hand in the woods. Take a piece of dry bark and set in the opening, then set in the wedge anew, so as to split this piece of bark, and it will prevent any further trouble. FILLING ICE-HOUSES.-A former number of the Illus trated Annual Register, gives the following very brief directions for filling ice-houses, which appear to comprise all that is essential: 1. Encase the ice in a foot of sawdust; 3. And drainage without ventilation below. a patent was at once granted. These have been the cause of considerable excitement | Patent Office, and a statement of the principles made among many of our gardeners through the country, many believing firmly that they were the greatest humbug of the day. A plain statement of facts will be the best proof of what they are designed to accomplish, and the great advantages they possess over the ordinary pot culture. I have a Pine apple growing in one of these baskets, which was shown at a meeting of the Brooklyn Horticultural Society, and pronounced superior to any that had been seen either in England or the West Indies; this is larger and better than any I have which are growing in pits and pots, grown according to the most approved methods. If this, the "King of Fruits," can be grown in this way so well. luxuriantly, surely all other kinds will succeed equally These baskets are from six inches to two feet in diameter, and of a proportionate height, made of wire in the usual way. In the center of this basket is a pan containing the compound in which the various things are planted. The space between the pan and the basket and top is fill. ed with moss, so that when complete they have the appear-ket, which produced 10 large beautiful peaches of fine ance of the ordinary moes basket. When the plants are grown in soil in the usual way, they soon exhaust it, and require re potting or renewing in some shape, while by this plan the various plants are placed in just such nutriment as they require; instead of being compelled to go through the soil in search of it, they absorb it as required. This compound will last for years without any change, before it can become exhausted. The only care necessary is the watering, as is usual in the case of pot plants, but not so frequently, as the moss will retain the moisture for a long time. As soon as the Basket of Grapes, (of which a cut is given above,) was shown to the Commissioner of the PRODUCTIVE APPLES. The Hawthornden apple is perhaps the most productive well known variety, especially when young. The Baldwin may stand next; young trees of the latter, five years from setting out in the orchard, very often bear a bushel or two; and sometimes at seven years, they bear three or four bushels. A young orchard, well managed, may be expected to give a hundred barrels per acre, in favorable seasons, at ten years. The Baldwin has by no means lost its popularity at the east. An extensive tree dealer in the eastern part of Massachusetts, informs us in a letter just received, that notwithstanding his efforts to mix in other varieties in orders, four-fifths of all the apple trees called for, are Baldwins, Among the hundreds of new sorts that are coming to light, and claiming attention, when shall we find one equal to this famous variety, or to the Rhode Island Greening. I have also grown the Black Hamburgh grape in the same way, with a larger yield and finer flavor than in a grapery or in pots, one of which I presented to Mrs. Lin coln. I have also a peach tree grown in a nine-inch bas color and size; it is now fully set with buds for next year's crop. Strawberries now growing in a six-inch basket, in flower, partially ripe, and fully of as large size and fine color and taste, as any that can be grown during their regular season. All kinds of plants, fruits and flowers, less care and attention than by any other method. can be grown in this way, in greater perfection, and with them within the reach of all. As soon as they are ready The prices will be made as low as possible, so as to place for sale, notice will be given through this paper. Any further information can be obtained by calling on New-York. or writing to my agent, C. B. MILLER, No. 29 Broadway, ALFRED CHAMBERLAIN. Newport, R. I., Dec., 1861. DWARF PEARS---SUGGESTIONS Some of our readers are aware that in some parts of the country, large numbers of dwarf pears perished last summer, in consequence of the death of the quince bottoms-the latter in all instances having evidently died first, and the pear, as a matter of necessity, because there was no supply of nourishment from below. Vigorous trees died as soon as any, and well drained land appeared death of the quince roots was caused in some way by the to be no protection. The common opinion is that the winter. Would not banking up, broad and shallow, or mulching with a few inches of manure, perhaps save the trees? Will those who have been in the practice of thus applying manure to their dwarf trees, please report the results? Let the experiment be fully tried-it is not too do good by enriching the soil, if nothing else. A thin late to apply such a mulching of manure-it will certainly sprinkling will hardly answer-it should be several inches deep. THE GRAPES. The Gardener's Monthly furnishes a great amount of valuable information on this class of fruit-the more interesting from the increased attention given to them-deservedly so to a fruit that bears in two or three years from planting; affords heavy crops; and is not so liable to the vicissitudes of the seasons as most other fruits-while with a little care and selection, the fresh fruit may be had nearly the season through. The Grape Growers' convention, at Lancaster, Penn., reported through its committee on one hundred sorts on their tables, mostly of the new ones which have lately attracted more or less of the public attention. We give briefly their opinions, founded on examinations of the bunches on exhibition : ter. Cassiday, Arrott and Matilda, are pronounced similar in characRogers' Hybrid, No. 1, large, oval, brown amber, very promising. Maxatawney-amber colored, of delicious flavor; and pronounced by the committee as the best white native grape. [Too tender and late for the north.] Taylor-small, greenish white-excellent. [Dr. Evans, in another place highly praises it, and says it is equal to Elsinboro, but that it rambles too much.] Anna-not fully ripe-should hang late. Raising Asparagus in Queens County. When at the State Fair this year, I was very pleasantly joked about Long Island farmers buying manure by the bushel. In order to show that it pays to do it, I send the following statement, and for which a premium has to-day been awarded by the Queens County Ag. Society. JOHN HAROLD, Statement of Asparagus raised by Peter Cock, Locust The plot of gronnd contains by actual survey 7 acres and 7 53-100 rods. The ground was set out at different with the exception of two acres, one of which has been times, and has been cut on the average about seven years, cut two years, and not yet up to a successful yield; the other but one year, which was cut but a few days and consequently very little. The soil is a light sandy loam, located near the salt water; surface nearly flat. The crop is manured with New-York city stable manure, 75 loads (14 bushels) to the acre, spread on the surface in the fall, and worked in the rows in the spring. The asparagus is set in rows 4 feet apart, and 16 inches in the row, 5 inches below the surface, with roots one year from the seed. The crop is cut up and put up in bunches 44 inches in di Franklin—a promising wine grape. [Some of the members of the ameter, 7 inches long, weighing 34 pounds to the bunch, committee said it did not bear well.] Canby's August and York Madeira are 'similar. To Kalon-similar but superior to the Catawba-and ten days earlier. Its earlier ripening gives no doubt the high color, like the dark purple of the Catawba at Cincinnati.] Vermont Seedling-similar but not equal to the Clinton. Williamsport-above medium, good, early, promising, hardy. Merceron's Seedling-"a decided improvement on the Catawba, 2 weeks earlier, tenderer pulp.' Hyde's Eliza-similar to Isabella, and one week earlier. The Rebecca highly commended, but some thought it a poor grow. er. The Diana mildews at some places. The following vote was taken on the best six table grapes, and the three best for wine: FOR TABLE:-Concord, Delaware.. Isabella. 21 votes. 20 16 15 11 The Muscat Hamburgh grape, (exotic.) is highly spoken of by the editor--not equal in quality to the old Muscat of Alexandria, but a fine setter, and large and beautiful-fine for cold vineries. A plant 15 months old furnished a bunch weighing two pounds. It had, of Blood's Seedling grape, we are informed, ripens very early, is hardy, and of vigorous stock. It is of the Fox character, but much sweeter, has thinner skin, and not so hard a pulp"-is good for the colder parts of the country. course, the best culture. Mead's Seedling, is stated to be a seedling from the Catawba, superior in earliness, size and beauty. It is distinguished from the Catawba by its very long pedicels. It is said to have been entirely free from rot, when Catawba, Isabella, Clinton, &c., were badly af fected. The Catawissa grape is stated by Dr. Evans to promise value, ripen. ing with Hartford Prolific and Northern Muscadine-is large, and thought to be equal in quality to Isabella. He also highly commends the North America, a seedling of the Franklin, much better, large as the Isabella, sweet and good, without pulp, but lacks flavor-ripening before the Hartford Prolific. PLANTS IN BAY WINDOWS.-The very neat practice of making small plant cases in bay windows (and which our readers will find handsomely figured on p. 50 of the Illustrated Annual Register for 1861,) is recommended by the editor, who states that a common oil lamp, is quite sufficient, with the usual window shutters, to keep out frost during the night or extra severe weather, while the regular day temperature of the room will suffice for that time. This is worth remembering by those who are deterred from attempting to keep house plants by the fear of their being frozen, or of the labor of maintaining a proper temperature by fire heat. and was sold in New-York at 20 cents per bunch-40 bunches is considered a fair day's work to cut and bunch. About 1,000 bunches were lost by a severe frost the first week in May. Honey Locust and Yellow Locust. MESSRS. L. TUCKER & SON-The seeds of these trees grow as readily as Indian corn, by adopting this simple process: At night pour boiling water on the seed and leave it till morning; then pick out the swollen seeds, and renew the hot water application to the balance, and continue this process till all are swollen. Plant the seeds about half an inch beneath the surface of the soil. N. B. Both these species produce abundance of seeds on this island. WM. R. PRINCE. ¡For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] To Prevent Rabbits from Barking Fruit Trees. Catch one of them, and cut "him" into about four pieces! Then take a piece in each band, and rub your trees with the fleshy part, up as high as they can reach, and you will not be plagued with them any more. Should the winter prove long and severe, it would be well enough to give the trees an additional rubbing in the latter part of the season. GEO. H. WILLSON. Olney, I. GRAFTING THE GRAPE.-A writer in the Germantown Telegraph recommends grafting the Delaware grape on the roots of other grapes, both on account of its greater scarcity, and to cause a strong and rapid growth, and states that he has been as successful as in grafting any thing else, by performing the operation in spring, in March or April, "like any other grafting," taking care to set the graft low down or on the root. |