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FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

The death of Madame Adelaide has thrown a transient gloom over the circle immediately attached to the Court; but beyond that circle it will have very little effect. Indeed, even among the ladies who adopt mourning, it is of such a light and fanciful description as to have little or nothing in common with what it is intended for. As this subject cannot interest my fair readers, I shall merely say that some very rich mourning silks have appeared. Some are black brochée, in grey bouquets; others are striped in broad stripes of satin and moire alternately. There are also several quadrilled in satin and moire. Black satin, of an exceedingly rich kind, is also employed. Robes of the last material are trimmed with flounces, partly of satin and partly of lace. Others are decorated with full ruches of ribbon, or revers of black stamped velvet. The coiffures are composed of jet beads, or black bugles; or else a black lace lappet, one end of which is raised and attached at the ear by a bouquet of flowers composed of bugles. I have seen also some coiffures composed of a round of lace, thrown over a wreath of black currants; and others formed of velvet knots, fringed with bugles: they are placed at the back of the head, and envelop the hair in a very novel and tasteful manner. Morning chapeaux, and pardessus for outdoor dress, are always of velvet: the first are trimmed on the exterior with black lace, and in the interior with tufts of violettes des bois, or scabieuse; the others bordered either with black lace or sable fur-but the last is most frequently employed.

Pardessus for carriage and public promenade dress are now principally composed of velvet. We still see, on fine, clear days, some petits manteaux lined with satin, and trimmed with four or five rows of lace; but the majority are of a very large size, and entirely embroidered with a new kind of passementerie, or else bordered all round with a very broad band of sable fur. Dark green and deep blue velvet mantles are the most in favour for the morning-that is to say, for the promenade; but for morning visits, and half-dress in general, there are a good many mantelets-manteaux composed of satin of lighter hues, and trimmed with volants festooned in very deep dents; they are bordered with a light and very pretty passementerie. I have seen some of these composed of emerald green, and of lavender-bloom satin, and lined with rose colour; they are very much admired. While I am speaking of pardessus, I should observe that those for the evening are for the most part composed of white satin, and lined with pink. Several are trimmed with coloured blonde: if the pardessus is made with a hood, the blonde should be deep enough to form a veil. Others are trimmed with ermine, and, for young unmarried ladies, a good many are bordered with swan's-down. The witzchoura, or, as it is now called, the

manteau à la Russe, is used both for the day and the evening; it is always composed of velvet, and lined thoughout with fur, as well as bordered with it. The fur should be ermine or sable; but the very high price of the latter makes it now to be very rarely used.

Capotes of real feutre, lined with pink, and trimmed with pink and feutre velvet ribbons, are very much in request for the early part of the morning; so also are capotes of grey satin, with a rose-coloured quilted lining, and decorated with voilettes attached to the edge of the brim. Capotes of an intermixture of velvet and satin, or velours épinglé and satin, are very much adopted later in the day. I may cite among the prettiest of these, the capotes formed of alternate bands of satin and velours épinglé, the materials laid full on the shape, and formed to it by narrow satin rouleaux, on each of which is attached a ruche of narrow black blonde; this is for the exterior of the brim only: the material, which is only one of the two, is laid plain on the crown, and a fanchon-that may be either composed of the other material edged with narrow blonde lace, or else may be entirely of black blonde-is thrown carelessly over the crown, and attached at each side by a novel kind of knot of ribbon, generally of a full shade of red, and striped and figured in the two materials of the capote; the interior of the brim is lined with the same ribbon, but has no other trimming than brides en suite.

I may cite among the chapeaux those of deep blue velvet, of the demi-evasé form: they are lined with lemon-coloured satin; a long and very full ostrich feather is attached on one side by a small chere formed of the beards of marabouts. This is a novel kind of ornament, and has a pretty effect. Several chapeaux, both of light blue and pale pink velours épinglé, are trimmed with blonde of the same colour; some have the garniture entirely composed of it: it is disposed in draperies and choux, that have a singularly light and pretty effect. It is, however, more generally employed with the addition of flowers or marabouts. A mixture of satin and velours épinglé is very much in favour for chapeaux. Some of those most admired are composed of emerald green satin and sea-green velours épinglé, The garniture is a bouquet of marabouts in both shades. The colour poussière, which has lately been little seen, is beginning to be a good deal adopted for velvet chapeaux. They are usually enlivened by pink or cherry-coloured satin lining, covered by a bouillonné of tulle to correspond, and ornamented with a follette of a novel kind, the beards knotted with chenille to correspond. I must not forget what may be sonsidered the greatest novelty of the month: chapeaux composed of chenille of different light hues over white satin, or else satin of the colour of the chenille. Á revived fashion-one that has ap

peared and disappeared two or three times-is again come into vogue, and seems likely to be at least partially adopted during the season: I mean wadded and quilted chapeaux. They are now composed of either white or pink satin; they are trimmed only with a knot of velours épinglé on the exterior, and tufts to correspond in the interior of the brim; to the edge of which a small voilette of point d'Angleterre is attached. Cloth is a good deal employed for robes in plain promenade dress, and sometimes also for the public promenade; the form is the same for both, being a close redingote. There are many robes in the first that have only a row of fancy silk buttons down the front of the corsage and skirt. Others have, in addition to the buttons, two rows of narrow velvet ribbon on each side of the skirt and corsage, the long tight sleeve having a cuff à la mousquetaire trimmed to correspond. If the robe is intended for the public promenade for which I must observe cloth is not much used-it is always very expensively trimmed, either with very rich passementerie or with martre zibeline, the most beautiful and expensive kind of sable fur.

Black satin is now in very great request for public promenade robes; so also is moire satinée, and velvet of dark colours. Poplin, particularly Irish poplin, keeps its vogue; the favourite colours for it are pearl grey and lavender bloom. Satin de Canton and Pekin are worn both in dark and quiet colours. There is no absolute novelty in the forms of these robes, but I think I may now announce with confidence that there is a diminution in the length of skirts, at least as regards out-door dress; it is true, as yet the alteration is not great; but as we have begun to shorten them, it is probable that before the end of the season they will be reduced to a reasonable length; I wish I could say as much for their width, but they still retain it, and a new robe has just been introduced in which it is even exaggerated. How far this robe à la Chatelaine, as it is called, "will be fashionable, I cannot yet say; it is intended not only for carriage, but for evening dress, in different materials of course: the corsage for the first is made high, close, and pointed; but it differs from those adopted at present, by covering the hips and the lower part of the bust completely in the style of a corset, and has consequently an exceedingly formal appearance; the effect is rendered still more ungraceful by the excessive fulness of the skirt, and the manner in which it is set on in very thick plaits. These robes have no trimming round the border, but the corsages are decorated with passementerie. This kind of trimming is almost universally adopted for redingotes; some new descriptions of it have recently appeared, that present a most exquisite imitation of embroidery; this is disposed on many robes in the tunic style, rounding off at each side at a short distance from the bottom, and encircling the back of the skirt; it is arranged on others in the tablier style, but in a great variety of forms. Flounces retain their vogue for robes, but where the material is a heavy one, rich fringes are very

often substituted for them; they are disposed in three or four rows, and are so extremely deep that they sometimes cover three parts of the skirt. I should observe, however, that these garnitures and those of black lace are seldom seen but in the most elegant style of half-dress, but flounces of the material of the robe may be adopted either in that or for the public promenade. The number of robes without garnitures round the bottom is very great, and seems every month to increase.

The redingote form is decidedly predominant in morning dress; the corsage is closed to the ceinture, but the skirt is open from the waist. A trimming of velvet or passementerie is disposed on the corsage so as to give a width to the chest that is highly advantageous to the shape; it descends to the ceinture, and if the corsage is made, as is frequently the case, with basquines, the trimming turns round in front, so as to have the appearance of little pockets. In some instances the trimming is continued down the front of the skirt, but this is not general. The under dress, always composed of cambric or muslin, may be either trimined with an embroidery en tablier, or finished with a deep flounce festooned round the border. There is great variety in the materials for dinner and evening robes--maize-coloured satins, brochées in blue wreaths; satins Ecossais, a white ground, chequered in brilliant colours; damasks, in two shades of the same colour; they have in various shades of red a most brilliant effect: I may add to my list, reps satiné more antique, and some rich full-coloured velvets. Some robes, made for dinner in the demi-redingote form, are trimmed down the front with small choux of ribbon : others are decorated with passementerie. Several new garnitures of this latter kind have recently appeared. I may cite among the prettiest, an échelle, each bar formed by a kind of twisted rouleau, ending at each side in a star of beautiful open-work. Montants, composed entirely of passementerie in imitation of lace, but of beautiful and varied colours, are also in request. The trimmings may be said to constitute all, or nearly all, the novelty that these robes afford, with the exception, however, of the robechatelaine, of which I have already spoken; when made for evening dress, the corsage is always low, and the sleeves very short; large transparent open sleeves fall over them in the same manner as those worn in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; they are composed of blonde, tulle, lace, or tarlatane, according as the material of the robe is rich or otherwise.

Several new gauzes have appeared for balldress, in addition to the materials I spoke of last month: some are of the rich plain kind called Grenadine gauze; others, pink, white, and azure blue, are figured in bouquets of silver repeated on the volants with which they are trimmed. Transparent materials decidedly predominate for ball robes, though satins are fashionable, and taffetas, particularly taffetas Pompadour, still more so; the corsages of these robes are not so deeply pointed; some are drawn

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full under a ceinture of very broad and extremely rich ribbon; it is folded round the waist, and the ends fall very low. The corsages of ball robes are in general very low; those of which I have just spoken are plain at the top, but the fulness drawn to the ceinture in a manner very becoming to the shape. Others are draped à la grecque before and behind. Silk robes have the corsages quite tight to the shape. Sleeves are shorter than those of evening robes, but there is nothing novel in their form. Robes of light materials are made with double, and sometimes triple skirts. Flowers, blonde lace, tulle bouillonnée, are all employed for trimmings; even passementerie is not unfrequently used, but it is of an exquisitely light kind; in general it is employed as a heading to blonde lace flounces, or tulle bouillonnée. Most of the robes with double skirts have the upper one open at the side, but partially closed either by flowers, ribbons, or what is still more novel, by blonde lace échelonnée, intermixed with flowers.

Ball coiffures are generally, but not always, of hair adorned with flowers only; but in several instances the flowers are tastefully mingled with lace, or blonde lace lappets; light turbans, composed of lace or crape, are also seen; and even fancy coiffures of velvet, ornamented either with feathers or gold fringe and tassels, have appeared. These last, though perfectly adapted for evening dress, are in my opinion much too heavy for ball costume.

There is not much change in colours, but bleu de France, a shade between sapphire and lapis lazuli, is very much in vogue: so is also a very delicate shade of green, called vert de fruit.

Pink is not so fashionable this season for robes, but more so than ever for chapeaux, ornaments, and sorties de bal. ADRIENNE DE M-.

respond. Long tight sleeve; mancheron of a novel form, trimmed with fringe and buttons. The skirt is ornamented with three rows of buttons disposed in the form of a broken cone. White satin capote; a round and moderately open shape; two falls of lace are disposed in volants on the brim, and an ornament composed of ribbon is placed on each side; white brides complete the garniture. Rich silk shawl; rose colour figured with black, and black fringe.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

No. 3. EVENING DRESS.-Pink taffeta robe; a low corsage, round at top, and deeply pointed at bottom; it is trimmed with a berthe of the same; there are two falls, each festooned and cut in dents; the berthe covers the short tight sleeves. Double skirt; the upper one descending a little below the knee is cut round in dents, and looped in the centre by an ornament of cut decorated with a red rose embedded in foliage. ribbon. White gauze turban, a small light shape,

No. 4. BRIDAL DRESS.-Robe of white satin

à la Reine; the corsage high at the back, but opening so as fully to display the chemisette bouillonnée, formed by entre deux: a fold down drawn quite up to the throat in full rows of each side bordered with lace forms a lappel, which, closing at the waist, is continued en tablier down the front of the skirt. The sleeves with lace set on full; under sleeve of muslin a three-quarter length, and tight, are trimmed of a full-blown white rose in the centre of a tuft bouillonnée. The bouquet at the waist is formed of foliage mingled with orange blossoms. The hair is adorned with the bridal veil of white lace, attached by a wreath of white roses, foliage, and orange blossoms.

No. 5. DINNER DRESS.-Black satin robe; a half high corsage and sleeves, a three-quarter length, tight and rounded at the bottom; tarlaDESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. tane under-sleeve. Fichu à la Marie Antoinette,

FIRST PLATE.

MORNING DRESS.-Violet satin robe; a high close corsage, trimmed down each side of the front with black lace laid flat in the lappel style; it is continued in the same straight line down the front of the skirt. A single papillon knot of ribbon to correspond is placed in the centre of the bosom, and a succession of them at regular distances ornaments the skirt. The sleeves are a threequarter length, over demi-large cambric ones; square mancherons descending to the elbow, cleft in front, and trimmed with lace and knots of ribbon. Green velvet chapeau, a round and very open shape; the interior of the brim is decorated with a half-wreath of roses on each side, and green satin brides; the exterior with a band of velvet, in which two short green feathers are placed on each side.

CARRIAGE DRESS.-Redingote of green moire satiné; it is a new light shade, called vert de fruit, the corsage quite high, close, and descending in two rounded points, is trimmed in the habit style, with fancy silk buttons to cor

of application de Bruxelles; it is attached on the bosom by a chou of rose-coloured velvet each side with a velvet chou. ribbon. Cap of point d'Angleterre, trimmed at

SECOND PLATE.

Lemon-coloured satin robe; a low, tight corsage, deeply pointed, and short tight sleeves. Berthe of application de Bruxelles, of a large size, completely covering the sleeves. The berthe descends in a point to the waist, from whence two montants of application go down the sides of the skirt in the tunic style. A rose, embedded in foliage, is placed on each montant, at regular distances; the lace widens as it descends, and terminates in a round, in the centre of which is a full bouquet of roses and foliage. Pardessus of violet velvet, lined with white satin: it is a half-length pelisse, closed down the front, close fitting before, but loose at the back from the shoulders. Long sleeve, of moderate width. The garniture is sable fur, disposed in a pelerine collar brought down the front in robings, and turning very broad round the bottom. The top and bottom of the sleeve is trimmed en suite. The hair arranged in soft bands in front, and a

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