trend of the Unakas are separated into two groups, by a long limestone valley, which has taken the odd and unique name of Greasy Cove. Those south-east of the cove constitute the main Unaka range, and are composed of gneissoid or stratified granitic rock. The highest summits in the county, though not in the State, are found on this range, several of which, being destitute of timber, are called "Balds." These Balds are covered with a gravelly, blackish soil, which produces a wild mountain grass that affords pasturage for droves of stock. On the north-west of Greasy Cove there are several parallel ridges, the most prominent of which are known, locally, as Buffalo, Rich and Cherokee mountains. These also afford ample pasturage during the summer months. The rocks of these are conglomerates and sandstones. All the mountains, with the exception of the Balds mentioned, are clothed with dense forests of timber. Oaks of many species, the pine, poplar, walnut, cherry and linn, rear their massive trunks high in the air, while an undergrowth on the main Unakas, south-east of Greasy Cove, is largely intermixed with laurel.

Bompass Cove, a small mountain-hemmed valley, nestling between the ridges of the north-west division, is noteworthy on account of the very extensive deposits of limonite iron ore, which makes iron of superior quality, and almost invariably contains a small percentage of lead. This ore occurs in banks, the matrix being clay and flinty gravel. Iron ore, of the same quality, is also found in Greasy Cove.

The Nolichucky, by deep canyons, cuts at right angles the Unakas, and also the group to the north-west. It may here be stated as a singular fact, that the whole Unaka range, although the highest of the Appalachian chain, is cut transversely in the State of Tennessee by a number of streams, among them the Watauga, the Nolichucky, the French Broad, Big Pigeon, Tennessee, Hiwassee, and Ocoee, all of which are tributaries of the Tennessee River.

North and west of the mountain, the aspect of the country becomes more subdued. This portion of the county lies properly within the Valley of East Tennessee. The surface is rolling, and made up of alternating ridges and valleys.

Jonesborough and Johnson City are the only incorporated towns in its limits, though there are several villages. Jonesborough was laid off in 1779, is the oldest town in the State, and was its first capital. The first session of the Superior Court was held here, and it was about this time that President Andrew Jackson began his career as a

jurist. The county buildings and business houses are alike creditable to the public and private enterprise of the people. Two good institutions of learning are located at this place. There are, also, five church organizations, four church edifices, three newspapers, two hotels, several lawyers and physicians, an agricultural implement store, six mercantile houses, and three drug stores. The town is built among the hills, and the location is exceedingly healthy. Being centrally located, it draws a splendid trade from the county and a good portion of the mountain regions of Western North Carolina. The manufacturing interests are embraced in a tannery, two blacksmith shops, a foundry, two cabinet shops, saw-mill, a harness and several shoe shops. A flouring mill, carding machine and woolen factory would be profitable investments. Steam would have to be used as motive power. Population 1,200. Johnson City is a new and enterprising town, seven miles east of Jonesborough, on the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railway. It contains three churches, several stores, a large hotel, is situated in a rich agricultural region, and enjoys a high degree of prosperity. The population is 800.

Along the water courses the soil is a rich alluvium, and produces abundant crops of corn, oats, grass and rye. In the central and northern portion of the county, the uplands consist of a clayey soil, resting on a limestone formation. The subsoil of these lands is of such a nature and depth as to render them susceptible of the very highest degree of tillage. These lands are highly adapted to the raising of wheat, timothy, and the various kinds of crops indigenous to high latitudes. In the north-eastern sections of the county the soil is composed of gravelly ridges, interspersed with extensive slate strata, finely suited for grazing purposes, and grows the finest quality of wheat. On all the different varieties of soil above mentioned, red clover grows luxuriantly.

Ten large creeks traverse the county, and these, with the rivers already mentioned, afford a water-power for milling and manufacturing purposes that cannot be closely estimated.

The prices of improved land vary from fifteen to fifty dollars per acre, owing to location as regards schools, churches, post-offices, mills and railroad facilities. Unimproved lands vary in valuation from fifty cents to ten dollars. The latter embrace the mountains and timbered sections.

Farms are in a much better condition now than previous to the war, and the system of cultivation is rapidly improving. Wheat, corn, oats,

rye and barley are the crops grown, and the average yield per acre, considering the entire area, is small. There is a large quantity of waste land, exhausted by crops and a ruinous system of cultivation. A large amount of this impoverished area can be restored by proper management. The size of farms is generally large, larger than can be conducted with remunerative profits with the labor employed. We would here add that the people do not perceive the advantage of small tracts, thereby increasing their agricultural force and enriching the same to the highest degree of productive capacity. Stock-raising would, undoubtedly, be more profitable than any other department of farming, owing to the fact that the land needs rest, fertilizers and grasses, whilst the waste and mountain lands will furnish ample pasturage for a hundred times the number of stock that is now owned. Wool-growing, for several reasons that might be assigned, would be a most profitable employment. The soils are highly adapted to the cultivation of timothy and red-top, and clover is used extensively as a renovator. Turning plows, shovels and the bull-tongue are used in breaking up, the two latter in cultivating the crops. Horses and mules are used for farm work, except in the mountains, where oxen are used for farm work, except in the mountaineous, where oxen are used almost entirely. Labor is abundant, and is generally paid for in part of the crops. The tenant system universally prevails. Where the owner of the land furnishes all the material and supplies, he gets two-thirds of the crops, and vice versa. Rental contracts generally run for a year. The products are generally shipped to southern markets. The East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railroad passes through the county a distance of twenty-five miles, in which there are four depots. Horses, hogs, mules, sheep and cattle comprise the stock. Some fine stock are being introduced with the most encouraging results. Sheep are considerably annoyed by dogs, and the annual loss may be safely estimated at 300 head.

Limestone and dolomite are the prevailing rocks north and west of the mountains, and but little use is made of them except for lime. The mineral wealth as regards iron seems to be exhaustless and of the very finest and richest quantity. Barytes is found in immense beds near Fall Branch, and large quantities are being shipped. Lead is also met with. There is a large iron manufactory at Embreeville, which ⚫uses water-power. Near this place is one of the largest deposits of iron in the State, already mentioned as Bompass Cove.

A considerable quantity of home-spun goods are manufactured but

none shipped. Almost every farm has an orchard, and fruits would do well if properly attended to. The grape can be grown with profit. The most valuable varieties of timber are oak, walnut, beech, wild cherry, hickory and ash. The people are kindly disposed toward immigrants, and most desire farmers and mechanics. The population of the county. is about 17,000, and is increasing. There is an agricultural and mechanical association, and its efforts are highly promising. The October fair, held under its auspices, was a splendid success, eclipsing in the variety and excellence of the articles exhibited in any fair ever held in the county. The county abounds in mineral springs, principally chalybeate, and are recommended by medical authority for their medicinal virtues. The dirt roads, as a general thing, receive but little attention. There are fifty-two flouring mills in the county. The schools, ten of which are graded, are all public, and sustained by State and county taxation with a liberal yearly donation from the Peabody fund. They are seventy in number, and employ eighty teachers, The educational interest is constantly increasing. The introduction of improved implements and machinery has brought a wonderful and encouraging change in the modes of agriculture, and the results are so strikingly manifest that it is to be hoped that the people will make some approach to the advancement that prevails in the rich agricultural States of the Union. There is a poor-house, which contains about twelve inmates, supported by the county. The county owns the farm upon which the poor-house is situated, which contains about 400 acres, valued at $9,000.

The Secretary is indebted to A. B. Cummings for many facts contained in this notice of Washington county.

PART III.

1

MIDDLE TENNESSEE,

(WITH A DESCRIPTION OF EACH COUNTY.)

Middle Tennessee is by far the most valuable division of the State. It embraces forty counties and has a superficial area of 18,000 square miles, and a population, according to the last census, of 561,832. The value of its taxable property in 1873 was $136,906,557; number of polls 80,858; number of voters, 109,796. It contains 245 towns and villages. It has 550 miles of railway, and nearly 500 miles of navigable rivers. The surface is greatly diversified, and exhibits varieties of scenery the most opposite. Passing from Grundy county to Wayne, or diagonally from Stewart to Franklin, one sees almost every variety of landscape and surface features-mountainous, with rushing torrents and foaming cataracts; hilly, with swift, smoothly gliding streams ; level, where the waters linger by the sides of green pastures and grassy meadows, and where luxuriant crops gladden the face of nature. There is indeed no fairer region than that of Middle Tennessee. Nature has been lavish of her gifts of soil, of mineral, of timber and of water, of beauty in the landscape and freshness in the air; of health for the body and mind and of freedom from inclemencies of season. There is not a swamp properly, so called, within its boundaries. Its drainage is almost perfect. The surface is slightly tilted towards the northwest, and through deep gorges in the highlands, the Cumberland, Duck and Elk rivers flow on to mingle their waters with those of the Mississippi.