INTERVIEW WITH A YOUNG FRENCHMAN.

45

been traversing; and we thought of Apollos tarrying at Crete, on his way to his native Alexandria (whither we were bound), along with Zenas, the lawyer, a scribe, well-instructed unto the kingdom of heaven.*

Next day (Monday, May 13) the sea was calm, and we had some further conversation with the passengers. We offered an Italian tract to a poor monk, a pilgrim on his way to the Holy Sepulchre; but he civilly declined it, saying, "he had a pain in his head whenever he attempted to read!" One deeply interested person on board was the medical attendant belonging to the vessel, a young Frenchman named Darnel. Last evening when nearly all had gone to rest, one of us was led into a close and earnest conversation with him on his hope for eternity. The ship was rolling very heavily, but he lay down on the floor of the cabin, and in broken English on his part, and broken French on ours, we spoke on divine things till past midnight. This morning the conversation was renewed. The doctor declared that religion was dead in France; the follies of Popery had led men of reason to despise all religion, and he believed that there was more morality now than when Popery reigned. His idea of duty was, that it consisted in the practice of such virtues as concern for the public good, faithfulness to the marriage relation, and charity to the poor. He had no idea that a regard to the will of God was the rule of a man's duty, and honestly confessed, that he had not the least feeling of sin-" Philosophy," said he, "has taught me all that is needful for man." He acknowledged that he was not happy:-he ate, drank, slept, and rose every day to his work, yet still was not so happy as he wished to be. "But where am I to find happiness? The St. Simonians say they are quite happy in their brotherhood, yet their system is absurdity." We said that we had found happiness, and pointed out the foundation on which it rested, and urged him to put to the proof God's promise through his Son, "Come to me, and I will give you rest." He put us off by saying, "he could not pray unless he believed." We rejoined, that he refused to turn the mind's eye toward the object to be believed, and therefore could not rationally expect to embrace the truth. Upon this he argued that a man was no more to blame for his hard heart, than for a diseased member of his body; nor could he see the evil of being born in sin,

* Titus iii. 13.

46 APPROACH TO EGYPT-HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA.

and having a wicked nature. We showed him God's solemn declarations of man's awful guilt, and the free offer which he makes to him of pardon and a new heart. He was a kind, feeling, amiable man-one who seemed truly sincere, yet one who felt, like the young ruler, an invincible repugnance to the demands of the gospel. We gave him a French Bible, writing his name upon it, and our heart-felt desires for his salvation. He received it freely, and "went away sorrowful."

66

The heat was now very oppressive, and the cabin at midday was like an oven. About two o'clock in the afternoon, we came in sight of the low-lying shores of Egypt. The coast is very low indeed; and the country, as far as the eye can reach, flat and sandy. A land-mist arose over the sky as we approached the shore, drawing a veil over the sun, and thus moderating the intense heat. Our Albanian friend pointed to a row of buildings indistinctly visible, which he said were Ανεμομυλαι,” i. e. windmills. Sailing past the ancient Pharos, now no longer an island, we entered the harbour. We counted twelve ships of the line, belonging to the Pacha's fleet, resting majestically on the waters. They seemed to be beautifully equipped and fully manned. The appearance of the marines was striking, with their white cotton dress, red sash, deep brown faces, and glancing arms-and martial music resounded from every vessel. The crescent and star upon the red flag reminded us that we were now among the followers of the false prophet. Turning towards the shore, our eye rested with quickened interest on the graceful palm-trees, the camels slowly moving along the beach, and other indications of an Eastern clime, as the anchor dropped, and we prepared to land.

CHAPTER II.

EGYPT-THE DESERT-SOUTH OF PALESTINE.

"Set thee up way-marks, make thee high heaps: set thine heart toward the high-way, even the way which thou wentest: turn again, O virgin of Israel, turn again to these thy cities."-Jer. xxxi. 21.

WHEN about to land, we were told that the plague had that very day made its appearance in Alexandria. This was by no means welcome news, for we saw that in all probability we should now be subjected to the delay of a quarantine before entering Palestine. Meanwhile, however, having no alternative, we disembarked. The quay exhibited a strange scene of confusion and noise. A crowd of rough half-naked men and Arab boys, some with asses, some with camels, lined the beach, all screaming and quarrelling, determined to press their services on every passenger, and to take no denial. With some difficulty we got our luggage satisfactorily disposed of, and then each of the company mounted on an ass, and guided by an Arab boy, scampered through the gate of the city, and through the narrow bazaar, till we came to a pleasant square in the other extremity of the town. Here we took up our abode in an inn kept by a French

man.

With calm delight we were now able to look round upon the land of Egypt, while many scenes of its eventful history rose up before us. It was here that Jacob and Joseph sojourned, with their families, for 400 years. This was the land of Moses and his wondrous deeds. And, more interesting still, this was the land that gave refuge to "the holy child Jesus," when compelled to flee from the land of Judah. It was the cradle of Israel, and the cradle of Israel's Saviour,-as it is written, "out of Egypt have I called my son."*

This city Alexandria was the birth-place of Apollos,† that pattern of burning zeal, and scriptural eloquencethe city, too, of Athanasius-and the scene of the labours of the seventy translators of the Old Testament. Alexander the Great, Cleopatra, Cæsar, and many other † Acts xviii. 24.

* Matt. ii. 15.

48

ALEXANDRIA-DRESS OF THE WOMEN.

names, are associated with the name of the once illustrious Alexandria. With still deeper interest we now pondered over the future history of Egypt, as disclosed in the record of prophecy, and prayed that the time may be hastened, when "Ethiopia shall stretch out her hands to God" *-When "the Lord shall be known to Egypt, and the Egyptians shall know the Lord"-" And the Lord shall smite Egypt, he shall smite and heal it;" "Saying, Blessed be Egypt my people."+

(May 14.) Every eastern city is infested with dogs that prowl about the streets for food; and during all the night their ceaseless howling reminded us of David's description of his enemies: "They return at evening; they make a noise like a dog, and go round about the city." Before breakfast, some of us rambled out to Pompey's Pillar. The only thing remarkable about it is, that the shaft is one stone, a solid mass of red granite, 90 feet long, and 9 feet in diameter. The capital is Corinthian, indifferently carved. The traces of many a traveller's visit are to be found scratched upon its pedestal. The Mareotic Lake lay east of it, but is now dried up, affording no moisture to water the Mareotic vines that once

Ps. lxviii. 31.
Ps. lix. 6.

regaled Cleopatra and her luxurious court. The ground around it swarmed with small lizards, and the surface is broken with innumerable holes made by the jerboa. It was curious for us to observe for the first time women wearing the veil that hides the whole face except the eyes. Some carried the earthen jar upon their head in a very graceful manner. Some also were carrying their children on their shoulders, as referred to by the prophet, when he says of returning Israel, "thy daughters shall be carried on their shoulders." Some carried them in a still more singular manner, upon their side, a

+ Isa. xix. 21, 22, 25.
Isa. xlix. 22.

JEWISH SYNAGOGUE-JEWS.

49

custom also referred to by the prophet, "Ye shall be borne upon her sides."*

Passing through the bazaar, one of the Pasha's Beys rode past us, fully armed, mounted on an Arab steed. An Egyptian clothed in white cotton ran before him at full speed, clearing the way with voice and arms. This vividly recalled to us, Elijah girding up his loins and running before Ahab's chariot to the gate of Jezreel.†

In the forenoon we arranged our money-matters, and visited several individuals to whom we had letters-especially Mr. Larkins, the English consul, and Mr. Todd, from whom we received great kindness.

In the evening we visited the Frank Synagogue. We were guided up a dark stair in an obscure street, and through a long narrow ill-lighted passage into a small room, not more than thirty feet long and ten broad. At the door stood the usual box for alms, and another for "" (shemen limor,) "olive-oil for the lamps." There were only ten persons present: three of whom were natives of Egypt, dressed in the common oriental costume; the rest from Leghorn, Trieste, and other mercantile towns of Europe. They showed little feeling of devotion; except at one point of the short service, where there was a pause in the reading of the prayers, and all seemed to pray in silence for four or five minutes, turning their faces towards the ark. Before concluding, a box was carried round for contributions. There was not one interesting feature either in the worship or in the place, with the exception of a large frame suspended on

הרחמן יהזיד עבודת בית מקדש *-,the wall bearing these words

UND DID," "May the merciful one bring back the service of the house of the sanctuary to its place, speedily, in our days." This was like one of the groans of Israel for deliverance in "the house of bondage."

As soon as service was over, the Jews spoke freely to us-opened the ark, and showed us their copies of the law. One of the best of these we spread out for examination on the reading-desk; and out of their own scriptures discoursed to them of sin and atonement for sin. We told them that we had come from Scotland out of love to their souls. We spoke of Messiah, how he came the first time to die for sin, and is coming soon the second time to reign in glory. They said that there are +1 Kings xviii. 46.

* Isa. lxvi. 12.