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Statue found at the site of Aptera. Sarcophagus found at Arví.
lamp exhibiting Zeus and his eagle............................
A
PAGE
CHAPTER XXII.
Departure from Khaniá. Plataniá probably the site of Pergamos.
River Iardanos. Supposed site of Cydonia at Ierámi. Arrival
at the monastery of Goniá. Monastic institutions. Religious
paintings of the Greeks. Site of Dictynnaeon
21
CHAPTER XXIII.
Plane-trees. View of Mount Ida.
Plain of Kísamos.
Supposed
change in the sun's usual place of rising. Aspect of ancient
temples and of Christian churches. Influence of the oriental sun-
worship on the mode of praying, and on the architecture of the early
Christians. Keblahs of the Jews and Mohammedans. Vestiges
of Methymna. Probable site of Rhokka. Remains of Kisamos.
Visit to the Albanian Commandant of Kísamo-Kastéli.
at Upper-Palaeokastron. Cretan wild-asparagus........
Arrival
31
Aegilia of
Akté the
The stags
Site and ruins of Polyrrhenia. Ride to Mesóghia. The island
Saegilia, the Cerigotto of modern Europeans and the
the ancient Greeks. Ancient and modern Cretan wines.
site of Kalé Akté. The probable situation of Achaea.
of Crete existed not in the territory of Achaea, but in that of
Cydonia. Arrival at the hamlet of Kavúsi........
46
CHAPTER XXV.
Islands near Kutrí. Site of Phalasarna. A throne formed out of the
solid rock, and other remains of antiquity. The city Corycos.
Fruitless excavations. Journey from Kavúsi to Kamposelórakho....
61
CHAPTER XXVI.
The ancient city Dulopolis.
Kamposelórakho to Sklavopúla.
The
presence of Slavonians, in the continent of Greece, has not extended
to Crete. Sélino-Kastéli. Sfakian dialect. Site of Kalamyde.
Ancient Dorian institutions in Crete. Hághio Kýrkos, the site
of Lissos. Two supposed coins of Lissos.
Hághio Kýrko..........
A night's lodging at
78
CHAPTER XXVII.
Village
Walk to Súia. Vultures, eagles, falcons, and the cock of the woods
in Crete. Krustoghérako. African household slaves.
of Rhodhováni. Site and remains of Elyros. Thaletas.
of Rhodhováni. Coins of Elyros. Ride to Teménia
Honey
CHAPTER XXVIII.
The site and existing ruins of Hyrtakina.........
CHAPTER XXIX.
The site of Kántanos, near Khádhros. Village of Spaniáko, and
ruins of two towers near it............
Ruin of an ancient tower or sepulchre near Vlithias.
Arrival at the
Hear
120
hamlet of Vlithiás. Depopulation caused by the late war.
of another ancient site.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Visit the site of Kalamyde.
Politeness of Maniás in speaking to a Mohammedan.
in which Jews are held by oriental Christians.........
A generally prevalent superstition.
The light
123
Departure from Vlithiás.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Sfakian women. The olive-trees of Sélino.
View of the Northern and Southern
Fiscal innovations of Mehmét-Alí-
A beautiful female peasant.
Arrival at Ergastéri.
Seas.
pashá. Song on the death of the Christian chieftain Tzelepés.
A Rumelióte song on the defence of Mesolónghi. Song on the
death of Khadjí-Mikháli...
126
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Mosques in the rural districts of Crete. A caterpillar injures the vines
in Selino. Ancient and modern superstitions. Produce of an olive-
tree in Sélino. Snow not common at the sea level in Crete. Ride
to Lákus. An account of the Lakiótes. A passage in the history
The ancient city Rhizenia. Pre-
of the Venetian rule in Crete.
parations for Easter Sunday
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Departure from Láki. Mesklá, Thériso, Dhrakóna. Events at
Kerámia in June 1821. Kámpi. The paschal lamb. Rhamné,
Fré, and 'Ipo. Olive-trees of Apokorona. The common return
for the investment of capital in Crete. Easter Sunday, with its
festivities, salutations and superstitions. Song on the capture of
Adrianople by the Mohammedans. Pýrgo of Alidháki at Prósnero.
Defile of Askýfo. Great rout and slaughter of Mohammedans in
August, 1821. Plain of Askýfo. Arrival at one of the hamlets
Proceedings of the Egyptians in 1833......................
of Askýfo.
146
159
viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXV.
Wine of Askýfo. Sfakian cheese-cakes.
Cretan oaths, ancient and
modern. Euphemism. Departure from Askýfo. Trees of the
Sfakian mountains. Arrival at Anópolis. Dialectic peculiarities
Cretans at Odessa on the outbreaking of the Greek
of the Sfakians.
revolution
188
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Costume of the Cretan women somewhat changed since Tournefort's
time. The Katakhanás, Vurvúlakas, or vampire. A well-attested
Cretan vampire-story. The vampire feeds on the human liver.
The priesthood supposed to have the power of exorcising a vampire.
The popular notions now entertained, respecting vampires, in Greece,
Dalmatia, and elsewhere, were formerly prevalent in England.
Etymologies of the words Vurvúlakas and Katakhanás. A belief
in vampires entertained by the Jews and Arabs and also found
in Sanskrit literature. Similar notions of the ancient Greeks. The
Nereidhes, or "beautiful ladies," of modern Greece, resemble both
the Nereids of ancient Greece, and the fairies of Old England.
Other legends. A mid-day demon of the mountains. The power
Different
of witchcraft supposed to be possessed by the clergy.
position of the clergy in Greece and England with respect to witch-
craft. Additional notes on vampirism, and on the origin of the
English custom of driving a stake through the bodies of suicides.
Specimens of the Sfakian dialect.....
195
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The appearance, in Sfakia, of a saint and prophet, who worked miracles.
The marriage of cousins not allowed in the Greek church. The
saint's reputation and success confined to the mountaineers. Vestiges
of an ancient city: massive remains of polygonal masonry. Produce
of the plain and mountains of Anópolis. Self-destruction of a
Christian mother, with her child. A Sfakian worthy. Sfakian
Punishment of a wife if supposed faithless. Feuds
customs.
perpetuated between families.......
235