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By Hugh C. Muldoon, Ph.G., Boston, Mass.

In these preparations starches of various kinds are commonly used, and in many cases coloring matter is added. In powders designed for use on the face the presence of organic material is not objectionable. Some of the most popular preparations of this sort are made up entirely of ingredients of vegetable origin.

In an endeavor to make them more adhesive and possibly to impart some little medicinal action, various substances are added that are seldom or never used in talcums. Some of these chemicals are exceedingly poisonous, and as they may be absorbed through the skin and produce toxic effects, their use is to be avoided.

Universally recognized as being dangerous are the salts of mercury and lead. The mercury salts, particularly white precipitate, calomel, and corrosive sublimate, are most frequently employed in the liquid preparations. The lead salt commonly used is the carbonate, which is to be found under such trade names as flake white, body white, French white, and various others. Publications of the United States Public Health Service condemn the use of the salts of both of these metals for cosmetic purposes, as it has been shown that they may be absorbed through the unbroken skin in such amounts as to produce their characteristic poisonous effects. Women are found to be particularly susceptible to these poisonings. Preparations containing these chemicals are especially dangerous when used on an open sore or on an abnormal skin.

It has also been shown that zinc, magnesium, and bismuth salts are not entirely free from danger, although these substances are very commonly used and generally looked upon as harmless. This would indicate that we should not employ such chemicals as zinc oxide, zinc stearate or zinc oleate; magnesium carbonate or magnseium oxide; bismuth subnitrate or bismuth oxychloride.

Of the several starches commonly employed, rice starch bears a reputation for excellence that is really undeserved, as it has not been demonstrated that it is better for this purpose than are the other starches. In fact, corn starch is preferred by many. A large number of the so-called rice powders on the market contain little or none of the real rice powder. A good formula:

Corn starch
Rice flour
Chalk
Talcum

Color and perfume, ää..

16 parts.

.8 parts.

4 parts.

.4 parts.

.q. s.

The preparation made by this formula is properly labeled a complexion powder, toilet powder, or face powder. It should not be called a rice powder nor a poudre de riz.

Face powders are to be had in several colors to suit various complexions. These colors serve to make the powder blend with the color of the skin so that its use is not noticeable. The more thoroughly the powder is rubbed into the skin, the less easily is it detected.

Pure white powder is always in demand. A trace of blue coloring gives an intensified white which is desirable for certain complexions, especially for evening use; it gives the skin a rather transparent appearance. A pink color is made by the use of carmine; an ammoniacal solution is mixed with a little of the powder and carefully dried, after which the colored portion is added in the proper proportion to give the desired tint. The whole mass is then repeatedly sieved.

An alcoholic solution of eosin may be employed in place of the carmine.

A flesh color is produced by blending the pink color with a little yellow coloring. The brunette or cream color is obtained by using small amounts of coal-tar colors, or burnt sienna or umber. The last mentioned

There remain the calcium salts, the various ingredients must be in the form of an impalpakinds of starches, and talcum.

Talcum is generally present in face powders in greater or less amounts, and serves the same purposes that it does in body talcums. The presence of a large amount of starch imparts the desired dull finish.

ble powder. Powdered turmeric is also occasionally employed. Exact proportions cannot be given, but one part in a thousand may be a starting-point for experimenting.

These colors are added in the usual way by triturating with a small quantity of the pow

der, which is then intimately mixed with the larger quantity.

Rouge powders are made by using an increased amount of the carmine. The popular brunette rouges are produced by adding some of the yellow or brown color to the red. In all of these preparations it is absolutely essential that the coloring material be well distributed; otherwise a spotted effect may be produced when the powder comes in contact with the perspiration.

The perfume employed in the talcum line may properly be repeated in the face powder or other desirable odors may be found. Too much stress cannot be put upon the importance of giving the powder an attractive odor. The perfume oils are added as described under talcums in last month's BULLETIN.

If it is desired to make an especially adhesive product, a small amount of anhydrous lanolin may be dissolved in ether, or other volatile solvent, and quickly incorporated in a portion of the powder. After the solvent has evaporated this portion is mixed with the general mass. This makes one of the so-called fatty powders. It is very smooth to the touch, and it is claimed that it does not dry the skin. as much as does the ordinary powder.

Peroxide talcums and face powders for which a bleaching effect is claimed may be made by mixing five parts of the peroxide or perborate of sodium with ninety-five parts of talcum.

Powders and rouges in tablet form may be made by mixing the powder with a sufficient quantity of mucilage of acacia to make a soft mass. This is placed in suitable moulds and allowed to dry. Tragacanth may be employed to replace the acacia; from five to ten per cent of plaster of Paris, instead of the gums, has also been advocated.

Liquid powders are made of talcum, chalk, zinc oxide, and other similar substances, by mixing them with perfumed water containing about ten per cent of glycerin. The presence of starch is not desirable. These preparations are more adhesive than the dry powders and are especially suitable for evening use on the face, arms, and neck.

To package a face powder well will cost more than the value of the powder itself. At first thought this seems unfair and unbusinesslike, and it is difficult for the pharmacist to be

come accustomed to this reversal of the usual practice. However, a preparation of this character is a luxury, and customers would not be satisfied with the powder were it not dispensed in a dainty package. Much of the popularity of the French preparations is due to this very point.

The darker colored boxes are to be preferred, as they do not soil so easily, but they have the disadvantage that their color is more likely to fade when exposed to strong light. As far as possible colors should be selected that are permanent. Some of the newer packages present striking poster colorings of vivid reds, greens, blues, and yellows, contrasted

with black.

The covers may be fastened to the boxes with small gilt seals along the joint of union, or a narrow ribbon or silk cord may be tied around the box and fastened with a wax or paper seal.

The color of the powder may be shown by small printed slips attached to the bottom of the package, or perhaps by the color of the ribbon or cord fastening. To indicate the color of the powder by the color of the box is too great an expense.

The labels should be simple and in keeping with the rest of the package. Gilt seals are always suitable.

Face powder boxes generally contain a tissue bag in which the powder is to be placed. This may be folded over and sealed, or bunched together and tied with a ribbon: it should not be left unfastened. Another method is to omit the bag and to seal a piece of paper tightly over the top of the box before the cover is applied.

In attempting to work up an increased sale on these preparations make use of all of the ordinary means of advertising. If you find it advisable to use space in theatre programs, this is one of the few preparations from which returns may be expected. If you use newspaper space keep the advertisements dignified in tone. Be positive in all your statements, but be careful not to be too enthusiastic and make claims which you cannot substantiate. Don't say that your powder is absolutely pure. Nothing is. Don't say that it is invisible. It isn't. Don't say that it will nourish or soften the skin. It will not.

Under this head topics are announced nearly every month and prizes offered for the best papers, others printed being paid for at regular space rates. Questions for the next discussion are announced elsewhere and all our readers are cordially invited to respond with a paper, or, better still, two papers.

Does it Pay to Carry Jewelry as a Side-line?

Prize Article: Only When Conditions Are phant monopolizing time and money without returning quick profits, or, worse, a dead white elephant.

Ideal.

BY C. A. SMITH.

Suppose, for example, the drug stock is small and the store is located in a town lacking a jeweler-if such conditions prevail and if the druggist has a fair working knowledge of the jewelry business he can profitably invest in the line as a side venture. Technical knowledge would not be absolutely essential, as he could probably send repairing to a firm specializing in the work.

In the bigger cities, also, where there are large stores that could afford to put an experienced jeweler in charge, it might be possible likewise to conduct the department at a profit.

But conditions in large stores-and in small ones, too—are not average. The average druggist is located in a town or neighborhood where there is jewelry store competition, and he is usually too busy with his drug trade to develop a jewelry business and he cannot afford to hire an experienced jeweler. Such a druggist the average one-assumes a risk if he ventures into jewelry as a side-line.

It requires a sizable capital to purchase a stock of jewelry sufficiently large to compete with that of a store regularly engaged in the business. This stock must be kept up to the minute, for jewelry styles are second in changes only to those in women's wearing apparel. And right here the average druggist is likely to fall down. He doesn't know the business well enough to buy merchandise that will sell out before styles change.

In the ordinary store the druggist usually conducts his business with the aid of a good prescription clerk, a soda fountain man, or a general clerk. None of these has time to give to taking care of and developing a jewelry stock. And jewelry is a line that must be developed constantly or it will become deader than the proverbial door-nail. In fact, it is perilously liable to be either a live white ele

That there are drug stores where a line of jewelry has paid I do not doubt. The line once established should prove very profitable -so long as conditions are favorable. But the question arises as to whether or not conditions will stay just right until the druggist is so firmly established that he can defy real competition.

As a case in point I am going to cite that of a proprietor of a store carrying a $12,000 drug stock who invested in a $3000 stock of jewelry. Conditions seemed ideal. The druggist was a popular optician, though not a jeweler; and he was fortunate enough to secure on favorable terms the services of an experienced jeweler.

The jeweler, also an expert watchmaker, was to select, look after and develop the jewelry stock in return for space in which to do watch repairing, all of the latter work to be his personally.

For a while everything worked splendidly. The druggist was realizing a profit from his stock, well selected and well managed; the jeweler was making good money on his watch repairing. Between them they were fast overcoming the competition of two regular jewelry

stores.

At just about this time, however, the jeweler started in to dissipate. Before long his growing indifference manifested itself in a falling off of jewelry sales, and a little later drug sales, even, began to tumble. Finally conditions became so bad that the man had to be dismissed.

Three other clerks with a knowledge of jewelry were tried out unsuccessfully, and in the end the experiment wound up in an auction sale with a postscript-$700 worth of practically unsalable antiques, "even unto this day."

Perhaps some one will say that this case was an exception and that a poor clerk can kill

any business. I am willing to admit that an incompetent clerk is bad, but it should be borne in mind that when a drug clerk starts to kick over the traces he can be fired and the proprietor can step in and do the work until he can secure another capable man. With two stocks so incompatible as jewelry and drugs, however, the druggist is almost wholly at the mercy of his clerk. It should be remembered, also, that while there are many drug clerks to be had there are very few real jewelers who will work for the wages the average druggist can afford to pay.

Personally, as an average druggist, I could not be induced to invest in jewelry as a sideline. I have too many other lines that take less money and yield more profit.

A Reliable Line Brings Profits.
By W. F. SHERK.

Our measure of added sales has been helped most of all by a jewelry stock that was installed just as soon as we could finance it. The side-line has proved to be entirely satisfactory, and I believe a similar line can be made a money-maker by any druggist who is willing to put personality and push behind it.

Every woman is an instinctive lover of jew

elry; she loves to see it and to handle it; and while she may not buy when the various pieces are first shown to her, their appeal will not be forgotten. Instead, when the different gift seasons roll around, she is likely to recall a certain ring or lavalliere that she was looking at when she purchased her last package of face cream, and the sale of that particular piece is as good as made.

More people enter a drug store in a single day than come to a jewelry store in three days. Hence the druggist has three opportunities for making sales to the jeweler's one. If the pieces are well displayed but little extra effort is needed to establish a satisfactory and profitable trade.

We worked up our jewelry trade by a system of personal talks to customers and by always showing specimens from the stock when opportunity offered. Never, however, did we make the mistake of trying to explain the complete line to a customer on her first visit. Rather we followed the policy of showing two or three articles on the initial occasion and then, at some other time, displaying specimens

of brooches, or cuff links, perhaps, which had just been placed in stock.

Small-space newspaper ads were used once in a while, and each year, about two weeks before the Christmas holidays or the local graduating exercises, we mailed to a selected list of names a circular letter accompanied by a small catalogue illustrating some of the gift articles in our stock. Similar letters can also be used with good effect during the Easter sea

son.

Once the business is established a most important point to consider, if continued success is desired, is that of customer satisfaction. More than any other class of goods, the various grades of jewelry-good, bad and indifferent-look nearly alike to the uninitiated. It is only after the pieces have been in use for a little time that their true quality begins to be apparent.

Purchases should be limited to reputable wholesale firms of known reliability who will guarantee the quality of every article leaving their warerooms. Then the same guarantee can be made to the customer, who is thus assured that she is getting real value for her money and that any purchase which proves unsatisfactory will be adjusted to her satisfaction. Future profits depend upon how rigidly

such a policy is adhered to.

Five hundred, ten hundred, or fifteen hundred dollars, intelligently invested in jewelry, will easily bring good returns to the investor -much more so, in fact, than if put into almost any other line requiring so small a space and such limited capital.

A proper stock and a big push are the principal requirements.

Money and Time Lost.

BY HARVEY E. TODD.

Jewelry as a profit-paying side-line has been a negative proposition in our three stores, located in Anderson, South Carolina.

Perhaps our lack of success was due to a lack of enthusiasm, but I hardly think so, for the goods were given decidedly important display space and they were arranged in as attractive a manner as was possible.

Neither could the failure be attributed to faulty location. After falling down on the proposition in our main store we sent the bright and shining pieces to our two branch

establishments.

After remaining at the branches for a considerable time they were returned to headquarters with the sorry story that jewelry would not sell.

The line consisted of beauty pins, cuff links, lavallieres, hat pins, pendants and scarf-pins retailing at from 50 cents to three dollars. At these prices the might-have-been profit averaged about one hundred per cent. But sales didn't materialize.

After giving the goods the best possible showing at all three stores we reduced prices. by one-third. This, of course, stimulated sales somewhat, but at the end of six months we still had several hundred pieces of the jewelry on hand.

Then, determined that the goods must be moved regardless of price, we made another price slash, in some instances much below actual cost. At these ridiculously low figures we finally disposed of the entire layout, but at that the process was certainly a long-drawn

out one.

When the last piece of jewelry was handed over the counter we resolved that our experiments with such merchandise had come to an end. Not only had we parted with a good many hard-earned dollars, but we had also been put to an infinite amount of trouble.

The only thing gained was experience.

Too Many Difficulties to Overcome.
BY RALPH T. POLLOCK.

In my opinion, which is backed by the assertions of a number of brother druggists who have also been through the mill, the handling of jewelry is not a desirable side-line for the druggist to become mixed up with.

To attain any marked degree of success in the undertaking the druggist is obliged to carry a fairly complete line of rings, watches,

bracelets, and knickknacks, or else he cannot compete with the various jewelry stores in his vicinity. All women and many men delight in large displays and will naturally flock to the stock where the widest assortment is offered.

To compete with such stores necessitates an outlay of capital and devotion of time considerably in excess of the amounts the majority of druggists would or could spend.

Another point to be considered by the druggist is that an appreciable amount of money would have to be expended in order to acquaint people with the fact that jewelry was offered for sale. The ordinary person who wished to purchase silver or gold novelties would naturally go to the most logical place for those articles-the jewelry store-and never stop to think that the busy druggist had the time or money to carry such a line.

Still another handicap would be that many people when seeing jewelry away from its natural habitat would be rather skeptical as to its quality and wearing value. And once that idea became fixed it would require a decidedly clever salesman to dispel it. He would have to tell as plausible a story as does the carefullygroomed stranger who approaches us at the county fair and obtains a two-dollar loan, leaving behind a "solid-gold" watch as security.

The space that a comprehensive line of jewelry occupies is considerable, and if displayed in a medium-sized store some of the rightful lines or articles might have to be put on shelves in order to make room for the newer commodity.

Because of these facts it is my belief that it is not safe for the average druggist to impetuously add jewelry as a side-line. He should first bear in mind the old adage which says, "there's a place for everything." And isn't the jewelry store the place for jewelry?

QUESTIONS FOR THE NEXT MONTHLY CONTEST.

QUESTION No. 1:

Should Drug Stores Sell Liquors?
QUESTION No. 2:

Is the Candy Business Profitable in the Summer-time?

Every answer should be at least 500 words long and be in our hands not later than August 10. Five dollars will be paid for the winning paper under each title, the other papers printed being paid for at space rates.

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