first picot of last row. Work * 3 4th Row. Join reel thread into 1st picot of last row. Work 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, join into second picot, 2 double, join into third picot. Repeat Crochet heading as in former double, picot, 3 double, join into second picot of last row, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, join into third picot, 2 double, join into next picot. Repeat from from *. patterns. KNITTING. round of the trefoil; 2 stitches, 1 loop, 6 stitches, 1 loop, 6 stitches, and then leave the long tatting and begin the trefoil again. The other side of the insertion is worked in the same way, only instead of making the loops between the dif 379 ferent 6 stitches of the long tatting, you join it into the loops on the opposite side. To turn the corner you finish a refoil and make your 6 loops of long tatting, then draw your thread through all the 5 loops of the three last trefoils. Instructions in Knitting. ALTHOUGH the art of knitting is known perhaps more generally than almost any other kind of fancy work, still as the knowledge is not universal, and there have been of late years great improvements in many of the processes, we hope that a short account of all the stitches, and the elementary parts of the craft, will be welcomed by many of our friends; and most seriously would we recommend them to attain perfection in this branch of work, because, above all others, it is a resource to those who, from weak eyes, are precluded from many kinds of industrial amusement, or who, as invalids, cannot bear the fatigue of more elaborate work. The fact is that knitting does not require eyesight at all; and a very little practice ought to enable any one to knit whilst reading, talking, or studying, quite as well as if the fingers were unemployed. It only requires that the fingers should be properly used, and that one should not be made to do the duty of another. The implements used for knitting are rods or pins of ivory, bone, or steel. The latter are most commonly used, and should have tapered points, without the least sharpness at the extremity. round the needle by the slightest possible motion; bend the needle towards you, and tighten the loop on the lefthand finger, in letting it slip off to form the first stitch. Now take that needle with the loop on it in the left hand, and another in the right. Observe the position of the hands. The left hand needle is held between the thumb and the second finger, leaving the forefinger free, to aid in moving the points of the needles. This mode of using the forefinger, instead of employing it merely to hold the needle, is the great secret of being able to knit without looking at the work, for so extremely delicate is the sense of touch in this finger, that it will, after a little practice, enable you to tell the sort of stitch coming next, in the finest material, so that knitting becomes merely mechanical. Insert the point in the loop, bringing it behind the other needle, slip the thread round it, bring the point in front, and transfer the loop to the left-hand needle, without withdrawing it from the right hand. Repeat the process for any number of stitches required. Plain knitting. Slip the point of the right-hand needle in a loop, bring the thread round it, and with the forefinger push the point of the needle off the loop so that the thread just twisted round forms a new one on the right hand. The first process is casting on.Hold the end of cotton between the first and second fingers of the left hand, bring it over the thumb and forefinger, and bend the latter to twist the cotton into a loop; bend the needle in the loop; hold the cotton attached to the Purling. The right-hand needle reel between the third and little fingers is slipped in the loop in front of the of the right hand, and over the point left-hand one, and the thread, after of the forefinger; bring the thread passing between the two, is brought 380 ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON FANCY NEEDLEWORK. round it; it is then worked as before. ! The thread is always brought forward before beginning a purled stitch, unless particular directions to the contrary are given. The mode of making stitches. - To make one, merely bring the thread in front before knitting, when, as it passes over the needle, it makes a loop; to make two, three, or more, pass the thread round the needle in addition, once for 2, twice for 3, and so on. To decrease. Take one stitch off without knitting; knit one, then slip the point of the left-hand needle in the unknitted stitch and draw it over the other. It is marked in receipts d. 1. To decrease 2 or more, slip 1, knit 2, 3, or more together, as one, and pass the slip stitch over. The way to join a round. Four or five needles are used in round work, such as socks, stockings, &c. Cast on any given number of stitches on one needle, then slip another needle in the last stitch, before casting any on ; repeat for any number. When all are cast on, knit the first 2 stitches off on to the end of the last needle. One needle is always left unused in casting on for a round. The way of joining the toe of a sock, or any similar thing.-Divide all the stitches on to two needles, hold both in the left hand, as if they were one, and in knitting take a loop off each one, which knit together. To cast off-Knit 2 stitches; with the left-hand needle draw the first over the second; knit another; repeat. Observe that the row before the casting off should never be very tightly knitted. To knit three stitches together, so that the centre one shall be in front. Slip 2 off the needle together, knit the third, and draw the others over together. To raise a stitch is to knit the bar of thread between the two stitches as one. The abbreviations used are:-K, knit; P, purl; D, decrease; K 2 t, knit two together; P 2 t, purl 2 together: M 1, make one. Take care to have needles and cotton or wool that are suitable to each other in size. The work of the best knitter in the world would appear ill done if the needles were too fine or too coarse. In the former case, the work would be close and thick; in the latter it would be too much like a cobweb. SHELLS FOR A KNITTED COUNTERPANE. FINE knitting cotton and steel needles. 7th Row. Same as 5th. 9th Row.-5 plain, 2 together, plain 1, till 7 are left. 2 together, 5 plain. 10th Row.-Purl all. Continue 9 and 10 alternately until four ribs are formed, there will then be only 10 stitches on the needle; narrow these in the centre one till only one remains. Fasten off. BRIOCHE STITCH. THIS stitch is extremely elastic, and is very suitable for comforters, polka jackets, as well as for the Turkish cushion properly called a Brioche. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by 3, knit backwards and forwards. Thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, repeat. TAPESTRY-WORK AND EMBROIDERY. Instructions in Embroidery and Tapestry-Work. EMBROIDERY, properly speaking, includes every sort of ornamental work done with a sewing needle of any kind; but in its popular acceptation, it applies only to the ornamentation of any article by the eye, or from drawn or marked patterns-whatever may be the material, or combination of materials employed; Berlin work, or canvas work, on the contrary, is the usual designation of all kinds of embroidery on canvas, done by counting threads, and frequently by the aid of a painting on checked paper. Although these two different sorts of work are really equally entitled to the designation of embroidery, yet for the sake of making our hints as intelligible as possible, we will adopt the popular terms, and confine our present remarks to that sort of embroidery which is not executed by the stitch. Every sort of material may be used for embroidery. The most common are muslin, cambric, velvet, satin, cloth, and leather. The simplest style of embroidery is that termed Application, -that is, where the pattern is in one material, laid on another which forms the ground. In this way muslin is worked on net, velvet is laid on cloth, or on another velvet, and so on, the edges being either sewed over, or ornamented with fancy cord, braid, gold thread, or any other appropriate material. Another very easy style of ornamentation is that known as braiding. Children's dresses are worked with narrow silk or worsted braid, the latter being also used for ladies' aprons, flounces, &c. Gold and silver braid enter largely into various sorts of decorative needlework, and the Victoria braid, which has something of the appearance of satin stitch, is generally known. There is considerable art required to achieve putting on braid evenly and firmly. The stitches should be taken across the braid, but not to either edge. This makes it lie flat. But the most elaborate kinds of embroidery are those which represent 381 flowers, fruit, and other devices on any material; and these may be divided into white and coloured embroidery. White embroidery, or embroidery on muslin, is used for a great variety of articles of ladies' dress. The simplest is termed Broderie Anglaise. In this style, the pattern is formed of holes cut out of the muslin, and sewed over with embroidery cotton. The great art in working broderie is to make the holes all of the same size, and to take the stitches closely and regularly. Satin stitch is a smooth raised work, used for leaves, flowers, &c. It is done by first tracing the outlines accurately with soft cotton, then taking stitches from point to point of the part to be raised, so as to have the greatest thickness of cotton in the centre, and sewing it over, in stitches taken close together, and completely across the part outlined. The veining of leaves is generally formed by taking the stitches from the vein to the edge, first on one side and then on the other. The borders of embroidered muslin collars, &c., are usually finished with buttonhole stitch, worked either the width of an ordinary buttonhole, or in long stitches, and raised like satin stitch. Eyelet holes are made by piercing round holes with a stiletto, and sewing them round. There are many fancy stitches introduced into muslin work, but these require to be practically taught. The kind of frame on which muslin is most easily worked, consists of two hoops of wood, about eight inches in diameter. One is rather smaller than the other. On it the muslin is stretched, and the larger one being slipped over it, and fitting tightly, keeps the muslin in its place. Satin and velvet are embroidered in coloured silks, gold and silver bullion, pearls, &c. A very fashionable style is the work with ombré silks. The most delicate kinds of embroidery are worked with fine netting silk, one strand of which is drawn out. This makes the silk appear softer and richer. 862 ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON FANCY NEEDLEWORK. We vary much in size. A change of material, which might appear of no consequence whatever, would completely spoil the effect of the design. A new material has been recently introduced, termed Crystal wool. It looks very brilliant and pretty, but is not well adapted for long wear. It requires considerable care to work used. There are, also, what are called well with ombré silks, to avoid incor- short and long shades; that is, in the rect shading. Nature should be fol- former the entire shades, from the lowed as closely as possible. Not only lightest to the lightest again, will ocmust the form be carefully preserved, cur within a short space, a yard or so; but the lights and shades must be dis- whereas, in long shades, the gradation posed in an artistic manner. For in- is much more gradually made. stance: the point of a leaf is never the notice these apparently trifling differdarkest part, nor should the lower ences in our "instructions," that our leaves and flowers of a group of the readers may comprehend the importsame kind be light. ance of obtaining precisely the proper The materials for tapestry-work and materials for each design. If we preembroidery may be classed under the scribe a certain article, it is because it names of wool, silk, chenille, and and no other will give the effect. Transbraid; beads, straw, and a variety of parent, white, or silver beads are usually other fancy materials, are also brought worked with white silk, but clear into use. A knowledge of the proper glass beads, threaded on cerise silk, mode of using them, and the varieties produce a peculiarly rich effect by of each which are made, is one of the coloured silk shining through the most useful things it is possible transparent glass. The silk used for the amateur needle-woman to must be extremely fine, as the beads become acquainted with. We will, therefore, take them in their order. WOOL.-German wool (or Berlin wool, as it is commonly called) is the most beautiful material manufactured for canvas-work. The vast variety of shades, the exquisite tints produced, the softness and evenness of the fabric, are beyond all praise. We speak of Berlin wool as it ought to be; for no article is more frequently of inferior quality. From damp, or bad packing, or many other causes, it is frequently crushed and injured, and in that state is not fit to be used for good work. Berlin wool is supposed to be all dyed, as well as made, abroad; at present a large proportion is entirely produced in our own country, which is little, if at all, inferior to the foreign. Berlin wool is made only in two sizes, 4thread and 8-thread; unless the latter is specified in receipts, the other is always implied. Berlin wools are either dyed in one colour, or in shades of the same colour, or (very rarely) in shades of several colours. Technically, a silk or wool dyed in shades of the FILOSELLE is a silk much used for same colour, going gradually from light crochet-work, and for grounding canto dark, and from dark to light again, vas. Its make has been greatly imis termed an ombré, or shaded wool or proved of late years, indeed, some silk, whereas chiné is the term em- kinds work with almost the richness of ployed when there are several colours | floss, at one quarter the expense; it is FLEECY WOOL is the sort of wool used for polkas and other large articles. No material has been more improved of late, both in texture and dye. Some of the tints are quite as brilliant as those we so much admire in Berlin wool. It is made in 4, 6, 8, and 12 threads, and is much cheaper than German wool. It does very well for grounding large pieces of tapestry. SHETLAND WOOL is very fine and soft, but it is not much used. SILKS.-Netting silk is so generally known that it requires no description. It is made in various sizes, and, of course, the selection of a wrong size often spoils the dimensions of a piece of work. Three sizes are in general use, but there are extra fine and coarse. |